After riding with a modified Sram GX derailleur last year I'm jumping to a dedicated tensioner (basically because it looks cooler, its german, and its 2 ounces lighter woohoo). As for the set up, is the consensus to run the chain as tight as possible so that the idler pulleys are inline with the chain (such as the NS just posted above) or do I set the chain length to the point where it just puts the idlers under tension and the tensioner is in more of a traditional derailleur cage position? Ive seen both here but not much talk about it and the benefits of cons/benefits of either.
Chain tension: compress bike fully, then run the chain as short as it will go at that point (allowing for a slight bit of extra growth due to flex)
As above, push the bike through it travel to find max chain stay length, and add a link. I wouldn't run the chain super tight as 1, this will strain the tensioner 2. An extra link or 2 will free up suss travel. These little things are bloody good, I run 2 extra links in my chain an it runs silent! An i swear its even improved the rear suss
After riding with a modified Sram GX derailleur last year I'm jumping to a dedicated tensioner (basically because it looks cooler, its german, and its 2 ounces lighter woohoo). As for the set up, is the consensus to run the chain as tight as possible so that the idler pulleys are inline with the chain (such as the NS just posted above) or do I set the chain length to the point where it just puts the idlers under tension and the tensioner is in more of a traditional derailleur cage position? Ive seen both here but not much talk about it and the benefits of cons/benefits of either.
Take the spring/ air out of your shock, compress the suspension, and then check the chain length. On most frames the chain stay length grows at first, and then shrinks again, so make sure that there are no problems anywhere in the travel.
Probably gonna be a whole lot sexier after I paint it, but I wanted to see if it worked for me first. Probably one of the more overcomplicated conversions out there! But it does manage no derailleur/tensioner.
Probably gonna be a whole lot sexier after I paint it, but I wanted to see if it worked for me first. Probably one of the more overcomplicated conversions out there! But it does manage no derailleur/tensioner.
Absolutely brilliant. If I had the means to do that myself, I'd do it in a heart beat.
Thanks everyone! I am real happy about how it turned out! I wasn’t sure of the gear ratio but it turned out to be a good one to sprint into jumps and whatnot.
@nojzilla Yes, it’s a two speed BMX freewheel with one of the cogs flipped around to give space for both chains, and the pawls removed. I found an aluminum threaded carrier on some Chinese ebike site to mount on the jack shaft I fitted inside the pivot.
Building up a park bike. Anybody have experience with the G3C as well as the Boner? How quiet does the boner run without a clutch? I'd be a lot happier spending less money, but I'm willing to pay for a quiet bike...
I have the boner (non clutch) on my Supreme and although pricey its bloody amazing at what it does, bike is now silent from chain noise. Although there is no clutch the spring is bloody strong! And the adjustments are 3 way so, perfect tension and alignment. I set my chain up a bit longer than I could've as to free up the travel an I swear it has improved the suss... Definitely worth the price
Id say that the G3 with the clutch is more intended to run without a chainguide where the Boner is going to require a guide to keep everything on. As far as quietness they should be the same. Even my Rohloff tensioner with a chainguide is silent without any clutch. Quote="spaceofades"]Building up a park bike. Anybody have experience with the G3C as well as the Boner? How quiet does the boner run without a clutch? I'd be a lot happier spending less money, but I'm willing to pay for a quiet bike...[/Quote]