My son has an SB 6 and the bearings in the upper carbon link wore out quickly. They are a custom bearing and you can only get them from Yeti. The problem is they are pressed in to only carbon with no aluminum holder and when the new bearings were installed they moved! Yea nice . . . . . Yeti sent us a new link through a dealer but it took weeks. The bike is great, the link not so much and good luck getting in contact with Yeti. Their bikes are great and they know it! ! !
I just picked up an SB6C frame and built it up w/ a DPX2 and I am trying to find info on recommended settings as a starting point. My custom tune id is DGDW which returns this result from the Fox website:
2018, FLOAT DPX2, F-S, K, 3pos-Adj Evol LV, FOX, AM, 8.5, 2.5, 0.2 Spacer, CM, DRM, Rezi A F M+, Orange Logo
I'm not really sure how to interpret that result from Fox, but I am hoping this will work well with this frame as I'm looking for a Med compression and rebound tune.
For anybody running the DPX2 on the SB6, what have you found to be ideal rebound and compression settings? For rebound, I am trying to use the recommended settings of the Float X where they recommend 5 clicks clockwise, but the shock is setup different, so neither the rebound or compression settings really apply, and I can't seem to find a resource on Yeti's site where they list recommended settings for this shock - I can only find the Float X.
The DPX2 only has rebound and 3-position compression adjustments for damping tuning!
Thanks for the info - yeah I did read that guide and agree there is not a whole lot of adjustment but it is also extremely generic and there are more compression adjustments than just the on the fly 3 settings - I always find it easier to have a starting point for a specific frame rather than just generic based on body weight
Yes I have had an issue with a bearing. Same deal. Bike basically brand new and it seized with 3-4 rides. Dealer replaced all the bearings. Not one issue since.
Surprisingly my bike is pretty quiet. Can you isolate where the noise is and post pics of the routing?
Erik
I`ve noticed it comes from the downtube, near the bottom bracket. And if i hold the cables during my ride, pulling them a little bit, the noise is gone. I think trimming the cables will solve the issue but I`m not sure...
I routed the rear brake and gear cable through a foam sleeve inside inside the tube and it's all been nice and quiet so far. I'm not going to lie, it was a bit of a pain to install though.
is it normal to have a minimal play on the linkage where the rear of suspension is connected but no squeeking sound (not the infinity switch) when u check it with ur rear tire? (2016 sb6c)
Hi all, finally getting the new rig out for some laps. Bought the frame on close-out last fall and built up with all new parts this spring. Needless to say, I’m pumped. Used Yeti’s TR as inspiration for this build, but made some choice personal-preference changes along the way.
Fox 36 170mm Boost HSC/LSC Fox Float X2 with lockout We Are One - The Agent wheelset, Hope Pro 4 hubs, Boosty XO1 Eagle DUB Crank/Shifter/Derailleur/Cassette, XX1 chain Sram Code RSC with Centerline 200 / Centerline X 180 rotors Race Face SixC 35 bar, 20mm rise Race Face Turbine R 35 stem ODI AG-2 grips Chris King Inset 2 headset Race Face Atlas Pedals Selle Italia Flite Ti saddle Fox Transfer Factory 150mm dropper, with a Woftooth Components remote Oneup Components Bash Guide Maxxis Minion DHF WT 2.5 & Aggressor DD 2.3
just noticed that on one of the switch link kashima stanchions is a horizontal (to the floor) burr, it is only on the drive side, not particularly deep but i can see and feel it. I first thought it was mud just collecting at the limit of the travel (been riding all winter so LOTS of mud) i know i need to replace it, but do i need the whole link which is about £320 or can i just get the stanchion itself? also what could of caused it? mud? stone? seals? lack of grease? thanks.