2015 altitude 770 2x10 conversion to 1x11

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2015 altitude 770 2x10 conversion to 1x11
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Posted: May 5, 2016 at 22:53 Quote
I stuck with the one up system and purchased a replacement derailer. It's an awesome system for a great price. I may update to the 1x11 rear cassette, derailer and shifter later. I spent my money on upgrading the float 34 fork, tubeless tires, clip less pedals and shoes as well as the carbon handle bars, servicing my shock, repairing the dropper seat post and updating to the RM b.c. Link. Bikes are an awesome way to spend cash and so worth it. All the work was done on my 2015 770 altitude that i purchased in November 2014 and the crazy thing is it was a great bike before and now it's crazy good. Love RM bikes.

Posted: May 30, 2016 at 14:44 Quote
Hey I'm on a 2016 altitude 750 aluminum and am wanting to make it one by what would I need to do. (It has race face aeffect cranks if that helps)

Posted: May 30, 2016 at 15:49 Quote
Well it depends on how much you want to spend and if you want 1x10 or 1x11.

You could just add an expander cog to your 10 speed cassette like the One Up 42t and a 30-32 or 34t one up or Race Face NW Chinch chain ring. That would be the quickest and cheapest. Around 200 bucks.

If you want 1 x 11 then I would suggest Shimano M8000 11-40 or 11-42 or 11-46 (11-46 not quite available yet) cassette (eleven speed) and a narrow wide chain ring like the One Up 30 to 34 or a raceface equivalent.

I personally run the Shimano 11-40 with one ups 45t extender and the One Up 32t Oval Chain Ring. It works well.

The most expensive option is Sram which would require a new compatible XD Driver rear hub and then the Sram 11 speed cassette. Mucho Casho. Cheapest 11 speed would be wait till Shimano M8000 11-46 is available.

Also you would need to buy an 11 speed rear d and rear shifter and 11 speed chain if you go 11 speed. Cheapest set up would be a NW chain ring and sticking with your ten speed cassette and maybe adding an expander cog to the cassette.

Posted: May 30, 2016 at 19:36 Quote
Jbelot wrote:
I stuck with the one up system and purchased a replacement derailer. It's an awesome system for a great price. I may update to the 1x11 rear cassette, derailer and shifter later. I spent my money on upgrading the float 34 fork, tubeless tires, clip less pedals and shoes as well as the carbon handle bars, servicing my shock, repairing the dropper seat post and updating to the RM b.c. Link. Bikes are an awesome way to spend cash and so worth it. All the work was done on my 2015 770 altitude that i purchased in November 2014 and the crazy thing is it was a great bike before and now it's crazy good. Love RM bikes.

what did you upgrade on the fork?

Posted: May 30, 2016 at 19:45 Quote
dbhender wrote:
Well it depends on how much you want to spend and if you want 1x10 or 1x11.

You could just add an expander cog to your 10 speed cassette like the One Up 42t and a 30-32 or 34t one up or Race Face NW Chinch chain ring. That would be the quickest and cheapest. Around 200 bucks.

If you want 1 x 11 then I would suggest Shimano M8000 11-40 or 11-42 or 11-46 (11-46 not quite available yet) cassette (eleven speed) and a narrow wide chain ring like the One Up 30 to 34 or a raceface equivalent.

I personally run the Shimano 11-40 with one ups 45t extender and the One Up 32t Oval Chain Ring. It works well.

The most expensive option is Sram which would require a new compatible XD Driver rear hub and then the Sram 11 speed cassette. Mucho Casho. Cheapest 11 speed would be wait till Shimano M8000 11-46 is available.

Also you would need to buy an 11 speed rear d and rear shifter and 11 speed chain if you go 11 speed. Cheapest set up would be a NW chain ring and sticking with your ten speed cassette and maybe adding an expander cog to the cassette.

Highly recommend the oneup oval ring, they kick ass.

The stock cassette is not compatible with an expander cog (cannot remove the 17 tooth). if you want an expander you will need to buy a new cassette. I bought a shimano XT and a wolftooth 42 expander. I believe they list compatible cassettes on the oneup website. or you could buy a wide range 10spd sunrace cassette for cheaper. your bike comes specd with a shimano rear derailleur so you can use the wolftooth goat link to limit b screw tension and preserve shifting performance. Unfortunately there is nothing like this for sram so winding in the B screw so far noticeably throws shifting off. it takes a lot of fiddling around with sram rear derailleur to get it working but it is definitely not as crisp as stock shifting. I've adapted to it and have been getting on well with it but will either go 1x11 or pickup a shimano rear derailleur with the goatlink when it blows up

additionally you may need chainring spacers to get a better chain line with a 42 tooth cog on a 10spd cassette. got them for free from a lbs

Posted: May 31, 2016 at 7:56 Quote
Would I just need to take off the front derailleur and the smaller ring to make it one by.

Posted: May 31, 2016 at 14:27 Quote
gougeon27 wrote:
Would I just need to take off the front derailleur and the smaller ring to make it one by.

lol technically..... but unless you're a friggin beast you're gonna have a hell of a time climbing with a 36 ring and 36 cog combo. the purpose of a 1 by is to simplify the system while giving a similar gearing range. with a 36 ring upfront and only a 36 cog in the rear you are giving up A LOT of climbing gears. furthermore 1 by specific rings use a narrow wide profile on the teeth and the teeth are longer than normal rings cause the chain is not mean to be pushed off it into another gear by the derailleur. this minimizes chain drops during really aggressive riding. additionally a 1 by saves weight and takes some of the thinking out of riding.

Posted: May 31, 2016 at 14:37 Quote
JCFIV wrote:
gougeon27 wrote:
Would I just need to take off the front derailleur and the smaller ring to make it one by.

lol technically..... but unless you're a friggin beast you're gonna have a hell of a time climbing with a 36 ring and 36 cog combo. the purpose of a 1 by is to simplify the system while giving a similar gearing range. with a 36 ring upfront and only a 36 cog in the rear you are giving up A LOT of climbing gears. furthermore 1 by specific rings use a narrow wide profile on the teeth and the teeth are longer than normal rings cause the chain is not mean to be pushed off it into another gear by the derailleur. this minimizes chain drops during really aggressive riding. additionally a 1 by saves weight and takes some of the thinking out of riding.
Thanks for a simple answer that what I was looking for. But I was going to switch around the chainring. And i am kind of a bad ass for a 36. Lol

Posted: May 31, 2016 at 14:43 Quote
If you take off the small chain ring and run only the big one your chain line will not be optimal. Narrow Wide chain rings are built with a larger off set to compensate for chain line. As in when the chain is at either end of the cassette. If you simply use the largest chain ring of your 2 by 10 set up your chain line will be pretty angled when in the largest cassette cog. A Narrow Wide takes care of this issue. It will work with what you have asked but wear will happen much quicker on the chain, chain ring and cassette.

Posted: May 31, 2016 at 14:46 Quote
dbhender wrote:
If you take off the small chain ring and run only the big one your chain line will not be optimal. Narrow Wide chain rings are built with a larger off set to compensate for chain line. As in when the chain is at either end of the cassette. If you simply use the largest chain ring of your 2 by 10 set up your chain line will be pretty angled when in the largest cassette cog. A Narrow Wide takes care of this issue. It will work with what you have asked but wear will happen much quicker on the chain, chain ring and cassette.
Thanks for a in-depth answer. Appreciate it

Posted: May 31, 2016 at 20:58 Quote
dbhender wrote:
If you take off the small chain ring and run only the big one your chain line will not be optimal. Narrow Wide chain rings are built with a larger off set to compensate for chain line. As in when the chain is at either end of the cassette. If you simply use the largest chain ring of your 2 by 10 set up your chain line will be pretty angled when in the largest cassette cog. A Narrow Wide takes care of this issue. It will work with what you have asked but wear will happen much quicker on the chain, chain ring and cassette.

Valid point. Again I found that with a 42 tooth cog on the rear of a 10spd cassette the chain line was very bad even with a NW ring with the built in offset. Simple fix with chainring spacers

Posted: Aug 21, 2016 at 22:44 Quote
JCFIV wrote:
Jbelot wrote:
I stuck with the one up system and purchased a replacement derailer. It's an awesome system for a great price. I may update to the 1x11 rear cassette, derailer and shifter later. I spent my money on upgrading the float 34 fork, tubeless tires, clip less pedals and shoes as well as the carbon handle bars, servicing my shock, repairing the dropper seat post and updating to the RM b.c. Link. Bikes are an awesome way to spend cash and so worth it. All the work was done on my 2015 770 altitude that i purchased in November 2014 and the crazy thing is it was a great bike before and now it's crazy good. Love RM bikes.

what did you upgrade on the fork?

I'm. Very late on my reply. The 2015 bike has the 2014 fox 34 ctd fork, I'm fairly new to biking and I noticed this shock caused me issues at slower speeds. It wasn't performing well for a very expensive bike. Well Fox designed a 34 dampening systems similar to the 36 for the 2015 34 fork, they also have an upgrade kit for the 2014 34. It's worth it. Ask your Fox dealer or look it up on the forums. The updated fork is fantastic.

Posted: Oct 18, 2016 at 21:21 Quote
I just acquired the shimano 1x11, 32 crank, 11-42 cassette plus shifter and derailer. The one up was great to lose the front derailer, I'm looking forward to the full upgrade. I'll keep this thread posted but I won't be riding the upgrade until late feb.

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