tubeless set up , my valve stem is leaking

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tubeless set up , my valve stem is leaking
Author Message
flag famous-nobody
Posted: Jan 12, 2016 at 15:34 Quote
does it still leak after 2 days?......i just re-taped it last night

if a 8mm cut can seal dont understand why the valve wont seal. ............OK

you need to hold the wheel with the valve at the bottom
& shake the wheel to splash the sealant over the inside of the valve to fill up any gaps between the valve/rim.
............. I did this

I am 100% certain you are doing something wrong. ........what am i doing wrong ?

unless faulty components.........everything is new

did you press the valve really hard into the rim when you tighten?...........YES

push the valve hard as you tighten the nut on the stem. .....................i did this

..........

i bought gorilla duct tape today.
i am going to remove the gorilla clear tape now and re-tape with gorilla duct tape.
.
i post pix later.
.
flag TheUnknownMTBR
Posted: Jan 12, 2016 at 16:01 Quote
I don't see where you ever posted what rim you're trying to seal?
flag famous-nobody
Posted: Jan 13, 2016 at 23:24 Quote
.
these are chinese carbon hookless wheels.
flag famous-nobody
Posted: Jan 13, 2016 at 23:53 Quote
.
here is what i did today.

removed old gorilla clear tape
.... and replaced it with gorilla duct tape
.....see re-taped rim

photo
.
i bought this tool ( $1.OO ) to force new gorilla tape all the way down in to the folds/corners of the rim bed
to make sure new tape holding as well as possible


photo

... tool rolls over tape without cutting or damaging it.


photo

.
photo

.


then i used sharpened spoke
......to poke tiny hole in tape at rim hole
...............and installed new stem.

......then used small paint brush to coat and re-coat valve stem area to build up the latex .

.................................................................. i also soaked valve stem in orange seal too




photo


.


... when i tried to really tighten down valve stem
..........the grommet flange area of valve stem base was too large for rim valley
.............and was preventing the valve stem from pulling down into rim valley.
................. which caused base grommet to appear as not to evenly seal.

...............so i took valve stem back out of rim

.......................................................and filed valve stem on each side .

.........................................so it would pull down into rim valley better and let base grommet seal.


photo


photo



.....................i used blow dryer to fast cure latex around valve stem
........................................ to build up more and more coats


photo



...........when i aired it up,
..........................the tire beads seated / popped right into place and is holding air so far.

..........i will stick with the gorilla duct tape from now on
..............................and no longer use the gorilla clear packing tape any more.



photo
flag bigburd
Posted: Jan 14, 2016 at 0:05 Quote
You could of saved half.an hour not putting so many dots
flag jase111171
Posted: Jan 14, 2016 at 0:07 Quote
Glad you've got it sorted.can be frustrating getting tubeless set up sometimes,I've only ever used gorilla duct tape,with no issues for years,can do 6 wheels for £2,I also use it as frame protection aswell
flag TheUnknownMTBR
Posted: Jan 14, 2016 at 7:12 Quote
First thing I noticed is that the valve stem inner head appeared to be hitting the rim valley sides before bottoming out. The DT Swiss presta valve stem with removable valve has a long & narrow rubber seal & head that would probably be preferred there.

photo
flag famous-nobody
Posted: Jan 14, 2016 at 7:46 Quote
.
.
the stans valve stem set i bought 1st
also has a rubber base
which conforms better to rim valley.
the stans stem is heavier than the American classic stem
plus the american classic comes with a plastic rim contoured shaped device
which prevents the presta stem nut from cutting into the rim when you tighten the nut

also any inner tube valve stem that would be cut out of old inner tubes
and used as tubeless valve stems.
would be rubber and conform
.


the american classic comes with two grommets .

but no instructions.
to say where the smaller grommet goes.
flag RunsWithScissors
Posted: Jan 14, 2016 at 7:55 Quote
famous-nobody wrote:
.
.


also any inner tube valve stem that would be cut out of old inner tubes
and used as tubeless valve stems.
would be rubber and conform
.


This is what I most often do, only I add a second homemade gasket made out of innertube rubber. If I were going to just buy a valve I'd go with WTB TCS valves. The rubber base on them is round and has a long, gradual taper that fits everything I've ever tried to use them on.
flag famous-nobody
Posted: Jan 14, 2016 at 8:46 Quote
.
i like the plastic contoured rim protector that goes under the presta nut
it comes with the american classic stem.
and should come with all stems to protect carbon rim from damage
flag TheUnknownMTBR
Posted: Jan 14, 2016 at 9:46 Quote
I use the same method mentioned below for securing the tubeless valve stem, stopping when the securing nut comes into noticeable contact with the rim surface. Once I remove my thumb pressure the sealing rubber end holds pressure on the nut. I don't see how having protection between the nut and the exterior rim surface really accomplishes much of anything. The exception might be if you are turning the nut without relieving the gasket pressure from inside. Otherwise there shouldn't be any wear of consequence to worry about.

I've seen some ASYM rims where the valve stem hole is still drilled on the rim centerline (WTB I believe). This puts the valve stem coming through the angled rim surface rather inline with the surface curvature peak. On those rims the valve stem wants to skew at an angle as a result. I can see how an angled support under the nut is a benefit there.

a-d-e wrote:
ok maybe you already know this but: when you fit the valve dont just rely on the screw nut to pull the rubber tight to the inside of the rim - use your thumb to push it hard whilst turning the nut - if you push hard from the back can get another turn or so on the nut. if you are using the the rectangular rubber type should be able to get the nut fairly tight. the round conical ones dont need to be so tight in my experience as they kinda wedge in fairly well. I have spank with the ooh-bah inner inner profile, theoretically the hardest to seal but I had zero problems.
flag a-d-e
O+
Posted: Jan 14, 2016 at 10:12 Quote
famous-nobody wrote:
.
here is what i did today.

removed old gorilla clear tape
.... and replaced it with gorilla duct tape
.....see re-taped rim

photo
.
i bought this tool ( $1.OO ) to force new gorilla tape all the way down in to the folds/corners of the rim bed
to make sure new tape holding as well as possible


photo

... tool rolls over tape without cutting or damaging it.


photo

.
photo

.


then i used sharpened spoke
......to poke tiny hole in tape at rim hole
...............and installed new stem.

......then used small paint brush to coat and re-coat valve stem area to build up the latex .

.................................................................. i also soaked valve stem in orange seal too




photo


.


... when i tried to really tighten down valve stem
..........the grommet flange area of valve stem base was too large for rim valley
.............and was preventing the valve stem from pulling down into rim valley.
................. which caused base grommet to appear as not to evenly seal.

...............so i took valve stem back out of rim

.......................................................and filed valve stem on each side .

.........................................so it would pull down into rim valley better and let base grommet seal.


photo


photo



.....................i used blow dryer to fast cure latex around valve stem
........................................ to build up more and more coats


photo



...........when i aired it up,
..........................the tire beads seated / popped right into place and is holding air so far.

..........i will stick with the gorilla duct tape from now on
..............................and no longer use the gorilla clear packing tape any more.



photo
i would not have wasted the time & money on all those tools. any other valve on the market would seal in that rim & ill be honest when i googled the valve when you said brand I didnt really like the look of it (the o ring & solid alu) does not look compliant enough. the stans will wedge into any rim. rectangular great as they actually 'grip' into the rim well a little & the profile is close to most rims.
flag a-d-e
O+
Posted: Jan 14, 2016 at 10:16 Quote
my guess is they work perfectly fine in their own rims. you should put the rubber inside the rim not outside the rim. outside will cause sealant to build up inside the rim. if its leaking best to let it out completely.
rim void.
flag a-d-e
O+
Posted: Jan 14, 2016 at 10:22 Quote
famous-nobody wrote:
.
i like the plastic contoured rim protector that goes under the presta nut
it comes with the american classic stem.
and should come with all stems to protect carbon rim from damage
dt swiss have an o ring inside the nut to protect rim. the nut is large too so easy to get tight. something to consider in future if you run into problems.
flag robd420
Posted: Jan 14, 2016 at 11:21 Quote
Sure seems like a lot of work for a simple set up. A tool to push the tape to conform to the rim? You could have just used a tube and inflate it . As for your stem I would be keeping an eye on that, my stems have a full rubber base , that act as a seal, not just bare aluminium. Oh well hopefully you have it sorted.

 


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