Marzocchi 380 Master Thread

PB Forum :: Marzocchi
Marzocchi 380 Master Thread
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flag apatipsychonaut4
Posted: Mar 22, 2017 at 14:05 Quote
Well i got it used and came with the hardest spring. So i will follow you and get a black spring
flag staike
Posted: Mar 22, 2017 at 14:14 Quote
A black Fox spring or a Medium Marzocchi spring will work good for you. Smile Personally I would buy the Marzocchi spring so you know for sure that it will fit.
flag ttgtricksh0tzz
Posted: Mar 22, 2017 at 14:43 Quote
scarefaeSG2 wrote:
So I have a problem my new frame has a very big headtube and when i tried to fit my 380 forks on I found that they will only fit if the bottom crown is sitting just over the min mark on the forks has anyone experienced this problem I never had this with 888 or older forks as they all had a top crown with a drop but as the 380 are flat it is a struggle to get them on I took the spring out to see were they bottom out looks like they will be ok but I'm still worried if I had a hope top crown with a drop im sure this would not be a problem but I'm sure the 888 ones will not fit the 380 forks

Yeah i highly doubt the 888 drop crown will work. It shouldnt matter if its over the min mark by a couple of millimeters. Did you remove the elastomer as well when you removed the spring. If you didnt, the fork will compress more than you think on bottom-out and could impact the crown. Best to remove that and see the true bottom-out position and leave at least 5-10mm gap
flag way2manyhobbies2keep
Posted: Mar 23, 2017 at 12:20 Quote
metalhead, get the ti medium 5.5nm spring and light valving

other guy, post picturesof your headset, bike model and etc, chances are you have the wrong headset
flag apatipsychonaut4
Posted: Mar 23, 2017 at 12:55 Quote
jewpowered wrote:
metalhead, get the ti medium 5.5nm spring and light valving

other guy, post picturesof your headset, bike model and etc, chances are you have the wrong headset
I'm relatively new to this fork. What is 'light valiving'
flag MTBmj89
Posted: Mar 23, 2017 at 15:29 Quote
Hi guys, I just purchased a 2015 380 c2rc Ti the other day bran new! I'm pretty stoked on it to be getting it, but after reading a lot of these posts it seems that there are quite a few issues with them. (god I hope I bought a good forkFrown )(!

What you guys have all suggested is to AT the Minimum, I should at least pull it all apart and check the oil levels??
If so this process still seems quite complicated (especially compared to a boxer or 40) even after reading some of these awesome instructionsSmile


Also, I'm like 150 pounds with gear on and the fork is coming with 2 springs: a 6.5 and a 7.7 spring as a spare. I've read thru some of the tunes that you guys recommend, and do you guys think that the hard 6.5 will be too much or no? I'm generally a pretty experienced dh rider and the fork will be going on my Turner. Has anyone also managed to "nail" down the best oil volume levels for both the lowers and uppers by any chance? Like I said I am definitely going to rip my apart when it arrives to make sure shit is how it is supposed to be hopefully Eek

Thanks again guys for starting and posting this thread as it is SUPPPERRR helpful!!!
flag henkster
Posted: Mar 23, 2017 at 20:49 Quote
MTBmj89 wrote:
Hi guys, I just purchased a 2015 380 c2rc Ti the other day bran new! I'm pretty stoked on it to be getting it, but after reading a lot of these posts it seems that there are quite a few issues with them. (god I hope I bought a good forkFrown )(!

What you guys have all suggested is to AT the Minimum, I should at least pull it all apart and check the oil levels??
If so this process still seems quite complicated (especially compared to a boxer or 40) even after reading some of these awesome instructionsSmile


Also, I'm like 150 pounds with gear on and the fork is coming with 2 springs: a 6.5 and a 7.7 spring as a spare. I've read thru some of the tunes that you guys recommend, and do you guys think that the hard 6.5 will be too much or no? I'm generally a pretty experienced dh rider and the fork will be going on my Turner. Has anyone also managed to "nail" down the best oil volume levels for both the lowers and uppers by any chance? Like I said I am definitely going to rip my apart when it arrives to make sure shit is how it is supposed to be hopefully Eek

Thanks again guys for starting and posting this thread as it is SUPPPERRR helpful!!!

When you first get the fork, throw it on the bike and take it for a spin and see how it feels, and then take it from there.

Common issues seem to be:
- Stickiness (and not the famous Marzocchi plushness)
- Inconsistent spring rate in the 6-8" of travel range

A sticky fork will be down to a lack of lube or a binding issue due to something not being aligned properly. First step is to loosen the axle, then the crown bolts, then tighten the axle, then tighten the crown bolts - then check if the binding is still there.

If there's still a bit of stickiness then it only takes about 20 mins to pull the fork apart for a full fluids change. OEM oil is Spectro 7.5wt, but any 7.5wt shock oil should work just fine. Drain the legs. The damper should be full and pop 80ml of oil in each leg. There are some pretty epic instructions a page or two back. I prefer to service the fork more often and then don't need to mess with draining/refilling the damper.

I'm currently running 200ml in the spring side (which increases progression due to smaller air volume in the sealed leg), but I'm finding this a little too much for my needs. I'll be trying 160ml next as a comparison.

Grease should be Molykote 55. The more you can pop in the void between the seals the better. I also treat the stanchions to a wipe with Fork Juice before and after each ride for an extra plush feel.

I'm 200lbs-ish and run the 6.5nm spring and find it perfect for me. I know lighter guys who would prefer the 7.7nm though. If you tend to prefer a firmer setup then the 6.5 may well be perfect. I'd ride and see first, but the steel springs are really cheap and it's a 2 min job to switch them out.

If you find that the fork feels epic up to about 6" through the travel and then the spring rate ramps right up so that it's tough to get even 7" travel and impossible to get 8" travel then simply cut the foam/elastomer bumper that's found in the lower, spring leg. It's about 6" long if I recall correctly, and removing about 40mm worked great for me.

If you have any specific questions then just fire away and I'm sure someone will chip in with an answer.
flag gapos999
Posted: Mar 24, 2017 at 7:46 Quote
Cheers everyone for the great info put in here!

Can anyone tell if the MIN marking in the stanction refers to 27,5 inch or 26 inch steup?
I mean, the distance between seals and MIN marking is more than 200mm (something like 220mm or something).
I'm on a 26in bike and I want to lower the front a bit more than the MIN marking in order to steepen the head angle.
Is there any reason why NOT do it if I can leave 200mm free stanction space?
Note also that tyre profile does not exceed the seals height so there is no chance that this will cause tyre rubbing into the lower crown at full travel .
Any thoughts?
flag Kitejumping
O+
Posted: Mar 24, 2017 at 9:19 Quote
henkster wrote:
MTBmj89 wrote:
Hi guys, I just purchased a 2015 380 c2rc Ti the other day bran new! I'm pretty stoked on it to be getting it, but after reading a lot of these posts it seems that there are quite a few issues with them. (god I hope I bought a good forkFrown )(!

What you guys have all suggested is to AT the Minimum, I should at least pull it all apart and check the oil levels??
If so this process still seems quite complicated (especially compared to a boxer or 40) even after reading some of these awesome instructionsSmile


Also, I'm like 150 pounds with gear on and the fork is coming with 2 springs: a 6.5 and a 7.7 spring as a spare. I've read thru some of the tunes that you guys recommend, and do you guys think that the hard 6.5 will be too much or no? I'm generally a pretty experienced dh rider and the fork will be going on my Turner. Has anyone also managed to "nail" down the best oil volume levels for both the lowers and uppers by any chance? Like I said I am definitely going to rip my apart when it arrives to make sure shit is how it is supposed to be hopefully Eek

Thanks again guys for starting and posting this thread as it is SUPPPERRR helpful!!!

Common issues seem to be:
- Stickiness (and not the famous Marzocchi plushness)

A sticky fork will be down to a lack of lube or a binding issue due to something not being aligned properly. First step is to loosen the axle, then the crown bolts, then tighten the axle, then tighten the crown bolts - then check if the binding is still there.

The stickiness on mine was due to a defective damper, Fox couldn't fix it but luckily the place I got it from took it back. Otherwise would have had to drop even more money on a replacement avy cart to make it usable.
flag apatipsychonaut4
Posted: Mar 24, 2017 at 10:03 Quote
gapos999 wrote:
Cheers everyone for the great info put in here!

Can anyone tell if the MIN marking in the stanction refers to 27,5 inch or 26 inch steup?
I mean, the distance between seals and MIN marking is more than 200mm (something like 220mm or something).
I'm on a 26in bike and I want to lower the front a bit more than the MIN marking in order to steepen the head angle.
Is there any reason why NOT do it if I can leave 200mm free stanction space?
Note also that tyre profile does not exceed the seals height so there is no chance that this will cause tyre rubbing into the lower crown at full travel .
Any thoughts?

If i'm correct it doesn't matter the wheel size because you still have 200mm. The fork will still go up 200 through the stanctions. If you want to lower it,take out the spring from the left side and push the fork until it bottoms out and then mark where it makes the normal bottom out sound. Then when you are lowering the crowns make sure you give it like 5mm between the mark amd the crown.
flag MTBmj89
Posted: Mar 24, 2017 at 16:23 Quote
Super cool and thanks again for the reply guys!!! Will try those steps and ill be able to report back on Tuesday once it gets here. Just in time for spring HAHACool
flag BigBreizhou
Posted: Mar 24, 2017 at 16:38 Quote
Hi everyone ,
I'ved just bought a 380 Ti but I think something's wrong with the HS setting ( Rebound and Compression ).
They seems stuck, I can't move them. Everything's ok with the LS settings.
I didn't find any thread about this issue. If anyone know how to solve this problem it will be really helpful.
flag me2menow
Posted: Mar 24, 2017 at 20:33 Quote
Hey guys
should I replace a boxxer team with a 380?
peace n luv~
flag naturaltalent
Posted: Mar 24, 2017 at 21:59 Quote
BigBreizhou wrote:
Hi everyone ,
I'ved just bought a 380 Ti but I think something's wrong with the HS setting ( Rebound and Compression ).
They seems stuck, I can't move them. Everything's ok with the LS settings.
I didn't find any thread about this issue. If anyone know how to solve this problem it will be really helpful.
If its anything like mine the high speed adjuster knobs for both the compression and rebound are just very very stiff to turn
flag naturaltalent
Posted: Mar 24, 2017 at 22:02 Quote
me2menow wrote:
Hey guys
should I replace a boxxer team with a 380?
peace n luv~
I replaced a boxxer team with a 380 ti, I'm not ever going back to a boxxer. That being said, do your due diligence first before you make a decision. Another option is an avy cart for the boxer.

 


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