Marzocchi 380 Master Thread

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Marzocchi 380 Master Thread
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Posted: May 12, 2017 at 7:42 Quote
Espresso is just hard annodizing

Posted: May 12, 2017 at 13:09 Quote
Okay so, different from the last espresso color question, if its only the seal area that 'seems' to be fading i would say micro scratches contrasting off the dark dye in the hard anodized surface. The main (marketed) ingredient of espresso that makes it different from regular hard anodizing is Molybdenum Disilicide so provided the seals are not made with traces of Nitric Acid or Hydrofluoric Acid then then the surface should not degrade.

That reason combined with the fact that the lower portion of the stanchions gets the most movement from small bumps AND large drops versus the upper portion of the stanchions that only see seal friction on large drops leads me to believe its just micro-scratches.

Unavoidable however, i take real good care of my C2R2 aswell but if i look close enough with the right lighting i can see micro-scratches around the seal area. Not noticeable on the lighter colour stanchion though

Posted: May 19, 2017 at 2:57 Quote
Those SKF seal's for the Paoli from from Beta motorbike look to be exactly same as those SKF for the CR380
at half price.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKF-FORK-SEAL-KIT-38-MM-KITG-38P-Fits-Beta-EVO-125-EVO-250-2T-EVO-300-2T-/232085176710?hash=item36095ac186:g:8WsAAOSwzaJX3JWp&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trials-Fork-Seal-Kit-38mm-SKF-Beta-2008-2016-forks-/292108940806?hash=item44030cb606:g:b7EAAOSwwPhWkreI&vxp=mtr

what do you think?

Did some body try the Enduro bearing seal? I have some and have some siction issue.
the siction issue was already their with old SKF that were leaking.
it's not a problem with alignement of seal as I have a special tool to put them in. And have double check

Posted: May 19, 2017 at 4:28 Quote
The dust seal will definitely not fit, its a different shape (the side of the seal that is pressed into the lowers is recessed in the ones you linked but vertically flat on the 380 SKF's).
Oil seals look more like it but who knows?
As for the stiction, i have no experience with Enduro seals but i presume you checked the bushing alignment too? maybe over-tightened axle?

Posted: Jun 6, 2017 at 17:21 Quote
Hi everyone,

On a 2016 380 Ti with the 6.5k spring in it. Still need to cut down the elastomer bump stop but what do you think with regards to my 145 lbs weight? Should I go down to the 5.4k spring first?

Thanks!

Posted: Jun 6, 2017 at 21:15 Quote
PinnedBikes wrote:
Hi everyone,

On a 2016 380 Ti with the 6.5k spring in it. Still need to cut down the elastomer bump stop but what do you think with regards to my 145 lbs weight? Should I go down to the 5.4k spring first?

Thanks!

Well I'm around 155lbs and i cant reach more than 10% sag on the 6.5 spring. Still run it fine though and ive completely removed bump stop so i occasionally reach full travel but barely (no compression/no rebound), no noticeable impact on bottom-out.

I suppose it really depends how hard you push it. If i was your weight id probably go with the 5.4 spring and wind on some compression. If you're a gravity monster maybe stick with the 6.5?

Posted: Jun 7, 2017 at 1:08 Quote
Hi Guys, spent most of last night reading this entire thread to learn about the 380.

I've had mine for a year now and finally decided to spend some time getting it to feel right.

I've been doing regular basic services and I've just repaired the DBC unit so I'm pretty confident with the fork mechanically.

The main problem with mine is the coil side bush is tight so I need to somehow hone it out slightly to match the silky smooth damper side.

I work in engineering so I have access to all sorts of equipment i.e adjustable reamers and milling machines but I'm unsure of the best way to go about it. Has anyone attempted to do this at home at all?

And as far as the comment above I would go with the 5.4 spring mate.

Posted: Jun 7, 2017 at 4:57 Quote
Ive heard of some pro mechanics sanding down new bushes with standard sandpaper, no idea what grits though. Saves the riders the initial break in and reduce stiction apparently. Im guessing the coil side bush is definitely seated properly?

Posted: Jun 7, 2017 at 7:27 Quote
PinnedBikes wrote:
Hi everyone,

On a 2016 380 Ti with the 6.5k spring in it. Still need to cut down the elastomer bump stop but what do you think with regards to my 145 lbs weight? Should I go down to the 5.4k spring first?

Thanks!

Definitely

Posted: Jun 7, 2017 at 9:04 Quote
gapos999 wrote:
PinnedBikes wrote:
Hi everyone,

On a 2016 380 Ti with the 6.5k spring in it. Still need to cut down the elastomer bump stop but what do you think with regards to my 145 lbs weight? Should I go down to the 5.4k spring first?

Thanks!

Definitely

Thank you @ttgtricksh0tzz and @gapos999

Sort of figured that, anyone want a Ti 6.5? Will throw it up for sale

Posted: Jun 7, 2017 at 9:18 Quote
If anyone needs new stanchions I have 1 new set of espresso stanchions and 1 set of used nickel stanchions scratch/dent free

Posted: Jun 7, 2017 at 9:25 Quote
Side note, anyone know where to find the 5.5 spring? Im in the States. Thanks!

Posted: Jun 7, 2017 at 11:33 Quote
jewpowered wrote:
If anyone needs new stanchions I have 1 new set of espresso stanchions and 1 set of used nickel stanchions scratch/dent free

I don't need new stanchions but...is it possible to combine one nickel with one espresso? that'll be sick

i saw a dude at mountain creek with a fox 40 with a kashima stanchion on one side

Posted: Jun 7, 2017 at 11:53 Quote
I think that's a matter of taste and opinion, while its feasible, it would not be my taste

Posted: Jun 7, 2017 at 12:11 Quote
PinnedBikes wrote:
Hi everyone,

On a 2016 380 Ti with the 6.5k spring in it. Still need to cut down the elastomer bump stop but what do you think with regards to my 145 lbs weight? Should I go down to the 5.4k spring first?

Thanks!

I'm about the same weight as you I think and running the 6.5 just fine. I have cut the elastomer 3 cm and I'm using 180-190 mm of the travel now. I'm running 5-6 clicks of LSC/HSC. I'm quite a smooth rider and averagely fast, definitely not abusing the fork. I would stick to the 6.5. I have tried a 5.5 in my fork as I had one, but it felt too soft, mid stroke feels very wallowy.


 


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