Marzocchi 380 Master Thread

PB Forum :: Marzocchi
Marzocchi 380 Master Thread
| Next Page
Author Message
Posted: Jun 13, 2018 at 12:17 Quote
I'm 230 lbs. Once my broken fib heals I'll be able to test out the fork and try the various bumpers.

How do you guys replace the bumper? Remove spring, compress fork, swap out bumper and reverse?

Posted: Jun 13, 2018 at 13:18 Quote
jewpowered wrote:
MetalheadWolfRider wrote:
jewpowered wrote:


That's the fat guy bumper, if you want a harder even more progressive bumper you can run that one, for example if your 300lbs or kelly mcguire (RIP)
you mean McGarry?

Never had auto correct change a word on you huh?

bruh there was no pun intended lol

Posted: Jun 13, 2018 at 19:13 Quote
nagaredama wrote:
I'm 230 lbs. Once my broken fib heals I'll be able to test out the fork and try the various bumpers.

How do you guys replace the bumper? Remove spring, compress fork, swap out bumper and reverse?

The bumper stays inside the stanchion when fully compressed, you cant grab it. Ive always had to remove the lowers and undo the spring side circlip. The bumper just screws in and out then

Posted: Jun 14, 2018 at 8:48 Quote
ttgtricksh0tzz wrote:
nagaredama wrote:
I'm 230 lbs. Once my broken fib heals I'll be able to test out the fork and try the various bumpers.

How do you guys replace the bumper? Remove spring, compress fork, swap out bumper and reverse?

The bumper stays inside the stanchion when fully compressed, you cant grab it. Ive always had to remove the lowers and undo the spring side circlip. The bumper just screws in and out then

Thanks, I was hoping to be able to swap it without pulling the lowers.

Posted: Jun 14, 2018 at 10:05 Quote
nagaredama wrote:
ttgtricksh0tzz wrote:
nagaredama wrote:
I'm 230 lbs. Once my broken fib heals I'll be able to test out the fork and try the various bumpers.

How do you guys replace the bumper? Remove spring, compress fork, swap out bumper and reverse?

The bumper stays inside the stanchion when fully compressed, you cant grab it. Ive always had to remove the lowers and undo the spring side circlip. The bumper just screws in and out then

Thanks, I was hoping to be able to swap it without pulling the lowers.

I've always just taken the cap off the spring side, compressed the fork as much as you can so the spring pokes out, take the spring out and pull the bumper out then. I can't remember if you need long nose pliers or not, but I've never had to take the whole fork apart

Posted: Jun 14, 2018 at 10:55 Quote
spicer wrote:
nagaredama wrote:
ttgtricksh0tzz wrote:


The bumper stays inside the stanchion when fully compressed, you cant grab it. Ive always had to remove the lowers and undo the spring side circlip. The bumper just screws in and out then

Thanks, I was hoping to be able to swap it without pulling the lowers.

I've always just taken the cap off the spring side, compressed the fork as much as you can so the spring pokes out, take the spring out and pull the bumper out then. I can't remember if you need long nose pliers or not, but I've never had to take the whole fork apart

Ahhh, thanks!

Posted: Jun 14, 2018 at 16:28 Quote
spicer wrote:
nagaredama wrote:
ttgtricksh0tzz wrote:


The bumper stays inside the stanchion when fully compressed, you cant grab it. Ive always had to remove the lowers and undo the spring side circlip. The bumper just screws in and out then

Thanks, I was hoping to be able to swap it without pulling the lowers.

I've always just taken the cap off the spring side, compressed the fork as much as you can so the spring pokes out, take the spring out and pull the bumper out then. I can't remember if you need long nose pliers or not, but I've never had to take the whole fork apart

I did actually shorten my bumper so it is even harder to grab with a long nose pliers. But since my bumper screws onto big threads instead of just forcing it in, you may scrape the inside of the stanchion if you were to try twisting it back onto those threads with a long pliers.

Not sure if there are revisions without the threads but if i just forced my bumper down without twisting, it would come loose and mangle the bottom face of the bumper on every bottom out from being forced down onto the pointy ended screw from all angles

Posted: 2 days ago Quote
jewpowered wrote:
zemaniac wrote:
i dont know if this was posted yet

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0tnJqvho3c

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0tnJqvho3c

great vid of spring side service
** note: oil levels not set in stone , read back different takes from the guys on the thread

Weird mine has never had the foam ring and the extra seal kit I have doesn't have one either

i was wondering about the foam rings , this is the first I heard of them , their not on the Marz exploded view either

Posted: 2 days ago Quote
Foam rings haven't been listed in the drawings since 2012 in the 888s.

Posted: 2 days ago Quote
I have a weird issue on my 380 C2R2 Ti. The spring preload knob seems to be slightly turning by itself. Anyone elese experienced anything similar?

Posted: 2 days ago Quote
I read a few posts on here saying fox 40 springs were compatible with the 380...

I went to put one in yesterday, but the spring tapers down to a tighter coil at either end.
This means there isn't a large enough ID on the spring for the bottom out bumper to fit in, or the knob at the end of the preload adjust to fit in the spring.

Any thoughts? Other than chopping the tighter coil at the end off I don't see anything other options. I'm not sure the preload adjuster would meet the spring in that case

EDIT: a quick look around google images suggests this is a boxxer spring... I can't see any Fox ones where the coil tapers

Posted: 1 days ago Quote
spicer wrote:
I read a few posts on here saying fox 40 springs were compatible with the 380...

I went to put one in yesterday, but the spring tapers down to a tighter coil at either end.
This means there isn't a large enough ID on the spring for the bottom out bumper to fit in, or the knob at the end of the preload adjust to fit in the spring.

Any thoughts? Other than chopping the tighter coil at the end off I don't see anything other options. I'm not sure the preload adjuster would meet the spring in that case

EDIT: a quick look around google images suggests this is a boxxer spring... I can't see any Fox ones where the coil tapers

weird, i had one and it worked.

Posted: 1 days ago Quote
Hetman64 wrote:
I have a weird issue on my 380 C2R2 Ti. The spring preload knob seems to be slightly turning by itself. Anyone elese experienced anything similar?

Same, don't know why is this. Maybe it's because you lost the little ball that goes under it

Posted: 14 hours ago Quote
to all the guys having issue with tight adjusters - i.e. knobs that wont move under reasnoble force .

i just serviced my fork this week and noticed that using the reccomended 10nm for the foot nut under the reboubd adjuster basiclly locked the adjusters firmly .

solution was to hold the silver adjuster ( with a 7mm open wrench) and make sure it didnt rotate while i was tightning the 14 mm foot nut . even then i had to find a balance between how tight i could get the foot nut an still freely use the adjuster .

same thing with the compression adjusters -- need to balane the compression unit tightness ( 26 mm ) and get the adjusters to move freely .

hope this will help out .

if currently you have a "locked" knob - i suggest trying to loosen the relevant foot nut and balancing out the torque

Posted: 2 hours ago Quote
spicer wrote:
I read a few posts on here saying fox 40 springs were compatible with the 380...

I went to put one in yesterday, but the spring tapers down to a tighter coil at either end.
This means there isn't a large enough ID on the spring for the bottom out bumper to fit in, or the knob at the end of the preload adjust to fit in the spring.

Any thoughts? Other than chopping the tighter coil at the end off I don't see anything other options. I'm not sure the preload adjuster would meet the spring in that case

EDIT: a quick look around google images suggests this is a boxxer spring... I can't see any Fox ones where the coil tapers

Fox 40 ti springs barely work and would be est if you strip the color coating with stripper then shink rap, but they work either way, I have only tried it with the blue ti spring.

If you are using the steel coils they have a different ID and OD, so do the marz springs.

| Next Page

 
Copyright © 2000 - 2018. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv56 0.019492
Mobile Version of Website