Marzocchi 380 Master Thread

PB Forum :: Marzocchi
Marzocchi 380 Master Thread
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Posted: Jun 29, 2018 at 18:10 Quote
naturaltalent wrote:
The 380 and 888 crowns have different stanchion spacing, and are not interchangeable just so you are aware! I know someone who bought 888 crowns to use on a 380, he was not so joyful when he found they didnt fit haha

Yeah the spacing is different even though the stanchions are the same diameter.

Posted: Jul 2, 2018 at 9:49 Quote
Rbendt wrote:
Anyone have a 380/888 4 bolt upper crown for sale or know where I can get one?

Cheers, Ryan

PM me. I have a upper, and lower crown for the 380.

Posted: Jul 3, 2018 at 17:03 Quote
jewpowered wrote:
naturaltalent wrote:
The one with holes comes installed for sure. That solid one is useless, it is like hitting a brick and needs to be trimmed around 40mm to be of any use. If you need more progression just fill the spring leg up with more oil instead.

From my experience the one with holes needs trimmed too: hitting it was softer but it still limits travel


Same here, it still limits the travel at 175mm. Does anyone has cutted the new elastomer?
I'm 190lbs, running with the 6.5N/mm spring, which is very soft for me (no mid support) but it's impossible to button out. Very contrasting characteristics.

I see 2 options here:

1 - Use the 6.5N/mm spring and cut the elastomer and add more oil to make the suspension more progressive.

2 - Use the 7.7N/mm spring and cut the elastomer.

What you guys have done to solve this problem?

Posted: Jul 3, 2018 at 17:28 Quote
I would put the 7.7 spring in, cut the elastomer 15mm if you are getting 175 travel and fill with lots of oil. Im 150 lbs and the 6.5 spring is perfect for me with lots of oil and uncut elastomer, i use 195 travel.

Posted: Jul 8, 2018 at 17:06 Quote
What are the diameter of the holes in the new bottom out bumper? Do the holes go all the way through? How far are they spaced? I have mine trimmed down but still not getting full travel. I want to drill some holes first before I trim any more off.

Posted: Jul 10, 2018 at 15:45 Quote
seismicninja wrote:
mayhemsport wrote:
Hi. I just wondered if anyone has changed bushings on the 380? Not seals. But bushings. Heard they are glued by the pree zocchi importer here. Is this correct? Does not seem logical to glue the bushings. How on earth do you change them then. Replacing the entire lowers? Does not make much sence to me.

The word I heard was that Marzocchi didnt sell replacement bushings but required you to buy new lowers.

Really hoping thats not true but ive been looking for ages and nowhere sells them so.....
Seems very bad of them to force a lower replacement.
Anyone been brave enough to try 888 bushings?

Posted: Jul 11, 2018 at 0:56 Quote
ttgtricksh0tzz wrote:
seismicninja wrote:
mayhemsport wrote:
Hi. I just wondered if anyone has changed bushings on the 380? Not seals. But bushings. Heard they are glued by the pree zocchi importer here. Is this correct? Does not seem logical to glue the bushings. How on earth do you change them then. Replacing the entire lowers? Does not make much sence to me.

The word I heard was that Marzocchi didnt sell replacement bushings but required you to buy new lowers.

Really hoping thats not true but ive been looking for ages and nowhere sells them so.....
Seems very bad of them to force a lower replacement.
Anyone been brave enough to try 888 bushings?
All marzo products from 08+ have non serviceable bushings iirc

Posted: Jul 16, 2018 at 12:04 Quote
Hello all,
Let me prerequisite this by saying that yes, I just finished reading through the 45 pages of this thread. I will admit, I did skim through a lot because I was looking for specific information. If I missed this, I apologize. I just picked up a 2014 Transition TR500 with a 2014 380 Ti. The bike is for my son and he is in the 90lb range all geared up. Maybe 95lbs, but in that range. Previous owner said the fork has never been apart and it does feel a little sticky to me. I just ordered the soft Ti spring from Marzocchi. Based on everything I’ve read the plan is to replace the spring, drain all the oil and refill 80-100. My question lies with the bumper. I’ve looked online and can not find the newer style bumper with the holes in it. Does anyone have a source in the states that has them? I looked on the Marzocchi site and didn’t see them. I have not called them though. I figured based on what I was reading it would be worth changing while the spring was out. Or do I just cut the one that is in there? If so, how much? If I can source the new style should that still be cut? At less than 100lbs he is not going to compress it to much. Thoughts and direction are greatly appreciated.

Posted: Jul 16, 2018 at 13:15 Quote
At his wieght it wouldn't be much of a problem.

The recommendation was 40mm to cut off.

I started at 25mm and got to 35mm.
But I am 200lbs with gear.
And at 35mm I have full travel, but not harsh bottom out that I can tell.

Posted: Jul 17, 2018 at 8:14 Quote
potato wrote:
At his wieght it wouldn't be much of a problem.

The recommendation was 40mm to cut off.

I started at 25mm and got to 35mm.
But I am 200lbs with gear.
And at 35mm I have full travel, but not harsh bottom out that I can tell.

Ok, so 35mm would be a good starting point.

Posted: Jul 17, 2018 at 11:15 Quote
I was reading through the thread again and just want to confirm a few things. Before I get into a full rebuild of the fork I want to make sure the bike will work for him. Per the previous owner the fork has never been apart so it is definitely due.

1. I can't find pics or process in here to confirm because changing the spring seems to be coupled in with complete disassembly on most of the how to's. Is it really as simple as removing the 33mm cap, pulling the spring out, and dropping the new spring in? Can the bumper be easily pulled out as well? or leave that for when fork is serviced?

2. While cap and spring are out, can I add 40-60ml of oil through the top of the fork? I don't want to disassemble at this point, just change the spring, but figuring it might be low from the factory and what other people have added I thought that would get me into a safe range until complete teardown can be done.

3. On the right leg can I remove the cap and add oil through the top? Thinking 40ml based on what I've read here.

I know as far as the oil goes this is not the proper way to do it. I am just trying to let him get a day on it to see how it feels. If it feels good I will have it serviced and cut down the bumper. I have never had a pair of forks apart so not positive on how all of this works. I don't want to risk damaging or messing anything up as we have a trip in a week. Closest shop I can get to service in house is 3 hours away.

Posted: Jul 17, 2018 at 12:02 Quote
1. Yes. Might be a bit stuck on the plastic thing in the bottom, but just pull on it. You cant access the bumpstop from the top though.

2. Yes. Mine was low from factory.

3. Yes, just undo it the same way as the spring side. The cartridge is closed (or semi closed) so you dont have to worry about messing up the cartridge or anything. Mine was not low on oil on the cartridge side though, only the spring side.

Posted: Jul 17, 2018 at 12:17 Quote
staike wrote:
1. Yes. Might be a bit stuck on the plastic thing in the bottom, but just pull on it. You cant access the bumpstop from the top though.

2. Yes. Mine was low from factory.

3. Yes, just undo it the same way as the spring side. The cartridge is closed (or semi closed) so you dont have to worry about messing up the cartridge or anything. Mine was not low on oil on the cartridge side though, only the spring side.

Is there a way to check if it is low on oil without draining to see what's in there? I didn't see that mentioned anywhere, only that they were low. That's why I was thinking just add to it.

Posted: Jul 17, 2018 at 13:08 Quote
Not really any way to check oil level.

But a service to a fork that has been neglected makes a big difference.

When taking the spring out if you compress the fork so the spring comes out it is easier to grab and pull. It is attached pretty good at the bottom. It will also make a bit of a mess cause everything is covered in oil.

Top cap is also easier to remove if the top crown is loose.

Posted: Jul 17, 2018 at 13:45 Quote
potato wrote:
Not really any way to check oil level.

But a service to a fork that has been neglected makes a big difference.

When taking the spring out if you compress the fork so the spring comes out it is easier to grab and pull. It is attached pretty good at the bottom. It will also make a bit of a mess cause everything is covered in oil.

Top cap is also easier to remove if the top crown is loose.

Thanks for the tips!


 
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