Marzocchi 380 Master Thread

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Marzocchi 380 Master Thread
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Posted: Mar 2, 2022 at 19:39 Quote
Hey, quick question...
Are stantions still available for a 2018 380R ? I need to replace/repair spring side with large dent.
Thanks
Pat

Posted: Mar 3, 2022 at 1:10 Quote
Downhillpat wrote:
Hey, quick question...
Are stantions still available for a 2018 380R ? I need to replace/repair spring side with large dent.
Thanks
Pat

Bicyclesuspension.de looks to have 380 stanchions still in stock. Black and uncolored. Marzocchi Mark may also be able to help you, you can search back through this thread to find him.

Posted: Mar 11, 2022 at 3:42 Quote
The cost for the stanchions from Bicyclesuspension.de is just silly. You can often get a full fork from ebay for not much over £200!

Posted: Mar 21, 2022 at 11:14 Quote
Thankyou guys for the answers sorry about the late reply Smile

Posted: Jun 14, 2022 at 13:07 Quote
Loved loved loved this thread. Learned so much about fragile footnut, lost o-rings, torque specs, and axle fragility. In my own negligence, I lost all 4 pinch bolts on the trail one day after totally forgetting to tighten them. Finding a new set of those was like working for the CIA. Anyway, I spent several days trying to like this fork for park riding, before relenting and servicing it. Needless to say, I was not surprised to find that dropping the lowers yielded, NOT ONE DROP OF OIL.

My question for those who regularly service these, where do you get your dust seals and wiper kits? Should I use foam rings? Mine is one that doesn't have one, but appears to have a space for them.

Posted: Jun 16, 2022 at 9:20 Quote
KillerbeeDH wrote:
Loved loved loved this thread. Learned so much about fragile footnut, lost o-rings, torque specs, and axle fragility. In my own negligence, I lost all 4 pinch bolts on the trail one day after totally forgetting to tighten them. Finding a new set of those was like working for the CIA. Anyway, I spent several days trying to like this fork for park riding, before relenting and servicing it. Needless to say, I was not surprised to find that dropping the lowers yielded, NOT ONE DROP OF OIL.

My question for those who regularly service these, where do you get your dust seals and wiper kits? Should I use foam rings? Mine is one that doesn't have one, but appears to have a space for them.

Glad this thread is still helping people.

Once you up the oil capacity the fork is really reliable and only requires lower service once in a while.

I can tell you the light blue skf seals in my original pictures are f'in magic, they were pricy but the are low friction and never leaked, my buddies forks are 6 years old with original seals. No foam rings on these

Posted: Jul 5, 2022 at 13:25 Quote
I recently bought myself a second hand DH bike with the 380 c2r3 Ti fork on it. One day in the resort indicated a need for service. SI felt some sticking and there was a lot of noise. When opening the fork the heat shrink around the spring was completely destroyed and I have removed it and cleaned out pieces of plastic in the system. I couldn't find any similar heat shrink locally so I wanted to try with normal heat shrink tube for electronics. The wall thickness was a bit on the meatier side, so I decided to try a different approach. I bought a 6mm tube with thinner wall thickness and put sections around the titanium material itself. As the snake seen at the bottom curled up like a spring with the black areas being the shrink tube.

Question1:
Have anyone tried running shrink tubes with thicker wall thickness than the original?

Question2:
I can feel some friction when putting the spring through the slimmer part of the fork leg. Not a lot, but some. It is slightly wider in diameter now, more than I had hoped. Will this be a no-go for running it as the spring will widen ever so slightly when being compressed and cause the fork not to be smooth at all?

Illustration:

O+
Posted: Aug 24, 2022 at 20:55 Quote
Would anyone be able to sell me a c2r2 compression stack cartridge I’m from Vancouver bc thanks in advance for any help!
Kind regards -Callum

Posted: Oct 18, 2022 at 8:10 Quote
[Quote="Emilo-Andres"]I recently bought myself a second hand DH bike with the 380 c2r3 Ti fork on it. One day in the resort indicated a need for service. SI felt some sticking and there was a lot of noise. When opening the fork the heat shrink around the spring was completely destroyed and I have removed it and cleaned out pieces of plastic in the system. I couldn't find any similar heat shrink locally so I wanted to try with normal heat shrink tube for electronics. The wall thickness was a bit on the meatier side, so I decided to try a different approach. I bought a 6mm tube with thinner wall thickness and put sections around the titanium material itself. As the snake seen at the bottom curled up like a spring with the black areas being the shrink tube.

Question1:
Have anyone tried running shrink tubes with thicker wall thickness than the original?

Question2:
I can feel some friction when putting the spring through the slimmer part of the fork leg. Not a lot, but some. It is slightly wider in diameter now, more than I had hoped. Will this be a no-go for running it as the spring will widen ever so slightly when being compressed and cause the fork not to be smooth at all?

When I replace the spring wrap I use PVC heat shrink for RC car batteries. I'm in the UK and buy from ebay at the link below but I'm sure you'll be able to find similar where are you located. I've been using 47.47mm diameter btw.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361275492238?hash=item541db2878e:g:Il4AAOSwEeFVNP2D&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoLRpViNYExUoQPtljE526DRfna40bXE0312VguGrCHymDb5WXKMzwuhCf5ZzxsP9aaO4GT2pRZ0LxPBp9ar6TxISGo1m4ir05KkRejJl23prRv0%2BvrgRrN8WypvkLLB6jh9gV5x%2BpXiToo%2FL7hw1K9%2BN13JQl6J%2FbOo02sFgEBIHt9Orux6kVr1voqVBeX2dn9QI2QnRtW4S%2FXvHfg6btgg%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-CYjLr9YA

Posted: Oct 18, 2022 at 10:28 Quote
You can run shrink tube that's thicker, but if it rubs the sides of the stanchion, it might be better to either not use it or just use tinner 2" pieces in the top, bottom and or middle.

It's not necessary but will reduce the ticking of the coil spring as it inevitably flexes through the stroke.

I would just skip it, you'll hear the ticking of the coil, that's ok for better performance.

I had the same issue with a 55 RC3 Ti. Decided to replace the destroyed stock wrap, stuff I bought was too thick, ran it that way for a while but decided to remove it at the next service.

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