Chromag Stylus Requesting Input, Ideas, & Recommendations

PB Forum :: All Mountain, Enduro & Cross-Country
Chromag Stylus Requesting Input, Ideas, & Recommendations
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O+
Posted: Apr 12, 2021 at 12:38 Quote
....descending prowess..[/Quote]

I have been curious about the Michelin DH22 and 34 but they are almost as expensive as maxxis so I haven't bothered to stray from some tried and true. Would like to try the wild enduro front in a magic X compound too. Have you tried any pump track stuff with your michelin tires? How is the rolling resistance there?

Ah, see I am locked into one tire type. When the rear tire dies the front tire moves to the back and a new tire goes on the front. This is why I can never mullet a bike and all EXO or EXO+ tires have died prematurely on my bikes.

O+
Posted: Apr 12, 2021 at 13:56 Quote
monsieurgage wrote:
all EXO or EXO+ tires have died prematurely on my bikes.

Ah, totally understand that, I used to do the same thing.. For the couple years I had a buddy that worked for a brand getting me tires affordably enough that I did not rotate front to rear for a while, but I have since moved 1000 miles from that buddy, so here I am experimenting with Michelins lol.

The DH34 Bike Parks roll really fast, being a bike park compound they are built for longevity over grip. Since my Stylus gets used 50% at the dirt jumps and 50% on the trails, it is an OK compromise for me. Grip wise, I'd put them about level with a DHR2 dual compound from Maxxis. Not glue-like, but they certainly work in all but the nastiest conditions.

I will say though, if you want a tubeless ready tire with a heavy duty casing, reasonably grippy compound, and decent tread life, I'd highly recommend the DH34 BP. Not sure about Canada, but in the US you can get them from Cambria for 35-45 bucks.

Posted: Apr 12, 2021 at 14:16 Quote
Notbn wrote:
Looking good^^^

On another note, anyone having issues setting the proper B gap for shimano 12 speed on a stylus?

I just swapped my older GX 11 speed setup for a full SLX groupset with an XT cassette, but I cannot for the life of me get the B gap adjusted close enough. Even with the B screw backed all the way out, the cage is still very far from the bottom of the cassette and nowhere near the stamped mark that shimano provides. Adding tension to the B screw just moved the RD further away from the cassette. My chain length is currently 6 links plus a quick link which is longer than what is recommended by shimano (4 or 5 links plus quick link for a hardtail). I found with the chain at the shorter reccommended length the issue is the same if not more exaggerated.

Pics for reference


Is the chain length correct like in the following link? It looks like the chain is a little bit too short
https://dansbikeblog.com/article/how-calculate-correct-chain-length-shimano-12-speed-drivetrain

I had the same issue on my stumpjumper and my chain was one link too short, very sensitive setup !

O+
Posted: Apr 17, 2021 at 7:01 Quote
Has anyone setup their Stylus with mixed wheel size (29F/27.5R)?

Curious about this for my Stylus and given that I’m 6’2”, so typically like/prefer 29” wheels, but curious about how much geo gets changed.

O+
Posted: May 15, 2021 at 21:08 Quote
Does anyone else have to true up the back wheel and tighten spokes more frequently on their hard tails? I figure the back wheel gets punished a lot but I have even noticed a spoke that came completely undone.

I try to take hard tail friendly lines and play or jump between the bumps but some times I just jump into the square edge hits and hope for bike survives my poor line choice. Is it all bad line choices and smashing or just an aggressive hard tail problem?

The rim (some sort of alu ethirteen LG1) has a cushcore and is undented, no hops, and trues easily enough.

Is it dumb to have a steel hard tail and carbon rims? WRO rims are supposed to be bomb proof and stay true.

Posted: May 15, 2021 at 21:19 Quote
monsieurgage wrote:
Does anyone else have to true up the back wheel and tighten spokes more frequently on their hard tails? I figure the back wheel gets punished a lot but I have even noticed a spoke that came completely undone.

I try to take hard tail friendly lines and play or jump between the bumps but some times I just jump into the square edge hits and hope for bike survives my poor line choice. Is it all bad line choices and smashing or just an aggressive hard tail problem?

The rim (some sort of alu ethirteen LG1) has a cushcore and is undented, no hops, and trues easily enough.

Is it dumb to have a steel hard tail and carbon rims? WRO rims are supposed to be bomb proof and stay true.

You party hard, the wheels take the abuse and we walk away. The only time I remember constantly having to get my rear wheel trued and straightened was on my Transition Suppressor.

O+
Posted: May 19, 2021 at 11:02 Quote
I will try to rebuild a few of the spokes with new nipples and locktight on the spoke threads.

Anyone running a Zeb on their stylus? My pike is getting that squishy damper feel and I have ruptured two damper already in it. The pike just seems to fold hitting bumps and pushing through rough corners or braking hard on a steeps.

austenselk wrote:
monsieurgage wrote:
Does anyone else have to true up the back wheel and tighten spokes more frequently on their hard tails? I figure the back wheel gets punished a lot but I have even noticed a spoke that came completely undone.

I try to take hard tail friendly lines and play or jump between the bumps but some times I just jump into the square edge hits and hope for bike survives my poor line choice. Is it all bad line choices and smashing or just an aggressive hard tail problem?

The rim (some sort of alu ethirteen LG1) has a cushcore and is undented, no hops, and trues easily enough.

Is it dumb to have a steel hard tail and carbon rims? WRO rims are supposed to be bomb proof and stay true.

You party hard, the wheels take the abuse and we walk away. The only time I remember constantly having to get my rear wheel trued and straightened was on my Transition Suppressor.

O+
Posted: Jun 15, 2021 at 10:03 Quote
If anyone is thinking of getting a Chromag or the Raw 2020 Stylus get some 3M tape (same as Ridewrap but 20 bucks a roll at Lordco) and wrap up any areas that a cable, tube strap, or bottle will rub. I saw a little rust come through where my cables rubbed past the clear coat. I thought the clear coat would be enough but its not.

Also if you run a bash, cover all of the ISCG tabs. I run a two screw mount Oneup so have the top ISCG tab free and clear but again noticed rust. Cleaned and put in a spare screw with lock tight to prevent erosion.

This all makes me wonder about the inside of my frame which usually live in the rainy North Shore...

Any suggestions on rust proofing the INSIDE of the frame?

O+
Posted: Jun 15, 2021 at 10:17 Quote
monsieurgage wrote:
If anyone is thinking of getting a Chromag or the Raw 2020 Stylus get some 3M tape (same as Ridewrap but 20 bucks a roll at Lordco) and wrap up any areas that a cable, tube strap, or bottle will rub. I saw a little rust come through where my cables rubbed past the clear coat. I thought the clear coat would be enough but its not.

Also if you run a bash, cover all of the ISCG tabs. I run a two screw mount Oneup so have the top ISCG tab free and clear but again noticed rust. Cleaned and put in a spare screw with lock tight to prevent erosion.

This all makes me wonder about the inside of my frame which usually live in the rainy North Shore...

Any suggestions on rust proofing the INSIDE of the frame?

Fluid film with a 360deg nozzle is probably your best bet for internal rust protection. Or if you have a Krown location near you, you may be able to get them to spray inside the tubes for you if they're cool.

EDIT: Looks like there's only one in Prince George. That might be a little out of reach. Fluid film with a 360 nozzle will definitely do the trick.

O+
Posted: Jun 15, 2021 at 10:40 Quote
Notbn wrote:
monsieurgage wrote:
If anyone is thinking of getting a Chromag or the Raw 2020 Stylus get some 3M tape (same as Ridewrap but 20 bucks a roll at Lordco) and wrap up any areas that a cable, tube strap, or bottle will rub. I saw a little rust come through where my cables rubbed past the clear coat. I thought the clear coat would be enough but its not.

Also if you run a bash, cover all of the ISCG tabs. I run a two screw mount Oneup so have the top ISCG tab free and clear but again noticed rust. Cleaned and put in a spare screw with lock tight to prevent erosion.

This all makes me wonder about the inside of my frame which usually live in the rainy North Shore...

Any suggestions on rust proofing the INSIDE of the frame?

Fluid film with a 360deg nozzle is probably your best bet for internal rust protection. Or if you have a Krown location near you, you may be able to get them to spray inside the tubes for you if they're cool.

EDIT: Looks like there's only one in Prince George. That might be a little out of reach. Fluid film with a 360 nozzle will definitely do the trick.

This stuff looks great, thanks! I wish I had done the rust prevention before I build the bike.

Posted: Jun 28, 2021 at 12:27 Quote
monsieurgage wrote:
If anyone is thinking of getting a Chromag or the Raw 2020 Stylus get some 3M tape (same as Ridewrap but 20 bucks a roll at Lordco) and wrap up any areas that a cable, tube strap, or bottle will rub. I saw a little rust come through where my cables rubbed past the clear coat. I thought the clear coat would be enough but its not.

Also if you run a bash, cover all of the ISCG tabs. I run a two screw mount Oneup so have the top ISCG tab free and clear but again noticed rust. Cleaned and put in a spare screw with lock tight to prevent erosion.

This all makes me wonder about the inside of my frame which usually live in the rainy North Shore...

Any suggestions on rust proofing the INSIDE of the frame?

3M should do the trick, but I've had some issues with residue when taking it off and find it can look sort of tacky. If you plan on keeping your bike in the best shape possible and/or potentially selling it down the road, RideWrap is nice because it's hardly noticeable and covers most of the frame.

Best of luck with whatever you decide!

O+
Posted: Jun 28, 2021 at 16:54 Quote
steezystu98 wrote:
monsieurgage wrote:
If anyone is thinking of getting a Chromag or the Raw 2020 Stylus get some 3M tape (same as Ridewrap but 20 bucks a roll at Lordco) and wrap up any areas that a cable, tube strap, or bottle will rub. I saw a little rust come through where my cables rubbed past the clear coat. I thought the clear coat would be enough but its not.

Also if you run a bash, cover all of the ISCG tabs. I run a two screw mount Oneup so have the top ISCG tab free and clear but again noticed rust. Cleaned and put in a spare screw with lock tight to prevent erosion.

This all makes me wonder about the inside of my frame which usually live in the rainy North Shore...

Any suggestions on rust proofing the INSIDE of the frame?

3M should do the trick, but I've had some issues with residue when taking it off and find it can look sort of tacky. If you plan on keeping your bike in the best shape possible and/or potentially selling it down the road, RideWrap is nice because it's hardly noticeable and covers most of the frame.

Best of luck with whatever you decide!

If it wasn't a raw frame I would ridewrap it but I am just spot treating with 3m tape. I have 3M tapped a few frames and it just never looks as nice as ridewrap.

Posted: Jun 28, 2021 at 18:32 Quote
Notbn wrote:
monsieurgage wrote:
What is the scoop on the B limit screw? I am curious and more curious now about running either shorter 10-45 shimano with a short cage derailleur or keeping 11 speed.

I contacted Chromag but haven't heard back. At this point I haven't messed with it any further, it shifts fine as it is right now. It's a bit clunky into some of the smaller cogs but that may just be a shimano 12 speed thing, not sure. No problems shifting up into the big cogs, in fact it probably shifts better up into the big cogs than down into the small ones.

@Notbn @monsieurgage there are a lot of bikes with this issue. The issue seems to be that the the derailleur hanger is not compatible with Shimano 12 speed derailleurs.

I am not going to update my 2018 Stylus from 11 speed, because I actually think the 11 speed derailleurs are superior to the new 12 speed derailleurs (I have had one seize up already) and I don't need 50 something teeth on my hardtail where I ride. Shimano XTR 11 speed shifter/derailleur with either something like the new e*13 HelixR 11 speed 9-46 cassette and shimano 12 speed chain, or the new XTR 11 speed 10-45 is pretty close to perfection I think, and without the super long cage.

But hey, my opinion this far doesn't help you....right...

So, I ran into this issue on my 2019 Transition Patrol as well. Transition made new hangers to solve the issue, however, I wasn't inclined to wait and if you aren't either, you have two options - modify your hanger, or, modify your derailleur. The second of these two options is the easiest.

Remove your derailleur. There is a tab that sits against your hanger, and the b-limit screw sits on this tab. You can remove this tab easily by removing the small c-clip on the inside of the threads with a couple of picks, and then unthreading it. Next, file it down by about 50%, hit the side that sits on the derailleur hanger. Make sure to keep it flat and parallel. Reassemble and remount the derailleur. This should get you pretty much in line with where you need to be for proper adjustment and ensure you get the best shifting and don't start snapping chains left and right.

O+
Posted: Jun 28, 2021 at 19:57 Quote
privateer-wheels wrote:
Notbn wrote:
monsieurgage wrote:
What is the scoop on the B limit screw? I am curious and more curious now about running either shorter 10-45 shimano with a short cage derailleur or keeping 11 speed.

I contacted Chromag but haven't heard back. At this point I haven't messed with it any further, it shifts fine as it is right now. It's a bit clunky into some of the smaller cogs but that may just be a shimano 12 speed thing, not sure. No problems shifting up into the big cogs, in fact it probably shifts better up into the big cogs than down into the small ones.

@Notbn @monsieurgage there are a lot of bikes with this issue. The issue seems to be that the the derailleur hanger is not compatible with Shimano 12 speed derailleurs.

I am not going to update my 2018 Stylus from 11 speed, because I actually think the 11 speed derailleurs are superior to the new 12 speed derailleurs (I have had one seize up already) and I don't need 50 something teeth on my hardtail where I ride. Shimano XTR 11 speed shifter/derailleur with either something like the new e*13 HelixR 11 speed 9-46 cassette and shimano 12 speed chain, or the new XTR 11 speed 10-45 is pretty close to perfection I think, and without the super long cage.

But hey, my opinion this far doesn't help you....right...

So, I ran into this issue on my 2019 Transition Patrol as well. Transition made new hangers to solve the issue, however, I wasn't inclined to wait and if you aren't either, you have two options - modify your hanger, or, modify your derailleur. The second of these two options is the easiest.

Remove your derailleur. There is a tab that sits against your hanger, and the b-limit screw sits on this tab. You can remove this tab easily by removing the small c-clip on the inside of the threads with a couple of picks, and then unthreading it. Next, file it down by about 50%, hit the side that sits on the derailleur hanger. Make sure to keep it flat and parallel. Reassemble and remount the derailleur. This should get you pretty much in line with where you need to be for proper adjustment and ensure you get the best shifting and don't start snapping chains left and right.

Love the tinkering and will be saving this hint away for future use if need be. I have a 12 speed GX temporarily on my hardtail with Shimano waiting in the wings.

O+
Posted: Jun 29, 2021 at 4:57 Quote
monsieurgage wrote:
privateer-wheels wrote:
Notbn wrote:


I contacted Chromag but haven't heard back. At this point I haven't messed with it any further, it shifts fine as it is right now. It's a bit clunky into some of the smaller cogs but that may just be a shimano 12 speed thing, not sure. No problems shifting up into the big cogs, in fact it probably shifts better up into the big cogs than down into the small ones.

@Notbn @monsieurgage there are a lot of bikes with this issue. The issue seems to be that the the derailleur hanger is not compatible with Shimano 12 speed derailleurs.

I am not going to update my 2018 Stylus from 11 speed, because I actually think the 11 speed derailleurs are superior to the new 12 speed derailleurs (I have had one seize up already) and I don't need 50 something teeth on my hardtail where I ride. Shimano XTR 11 speed shifter/derailleur with either something like the new e*13 HelixR 11 speed 9-46 cassette and shimano 12 speed chain, or the new XTR 11 speed 10-45 is pretty close to perfection I think, and without the super long cage.

But hey, my opinion this far doesn't help you....right...

So, I ran into this issue on my 2019 Transition Patrol as well. Transition made new hangers to solve the issue, however, I wasn't inclined to wait and if you aren't either, you have two options - modify your hanger, or, modify your derailleur. The second of these two options is the easiest.

Remove your derailleur. There is a tab that sits against your hanger, and the b-limit screw sits on this tab. You can remove this tab easily by removing the small c-clip on the inside of the threads with a couple of picks, and then unthreading it. Next, file it down by about 50%, hit the side that sits on the derailleur hanger. Make sure to keep it flat and parallel. Reassemble and remount the derailleur. This should get you pretty much in line with where you need to be for proper adjustment and ensure you get the best shifting and don't start snapping chains left and right.

Love the tinkering and will be saving this hint away for future use if need be. I have a 12 speed GX temporarily on my hardtail with Shimano waiting in the wings.

As it turns out I'm an actual idiot and forgot I had the 10-45 cassette and not the 10-51, so obviously I would never be able to get the 51T mark to line up. HOWEVER, upon further digging and rechecking, I still can't achieve the required B-gap with the 10-45 and the SGS derailleur. I will still need to file it down after all.


 


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