Nope, but you definitely should if you are thinking about it! Mine feels pretty good with a 160mm fork up front and the geometry should be similar.
You can definitely do it! A slacker HA is always good for these dated frames. I ran a 26 rear / 27.5 front on my SC v10.5 a couple years ago. The larger front wheel goes up and over everything much easier. It was a dream to ride!!!
So after some trial and error I've managed to fit a bottle cage and frame strap in next to my piggyback shock. It's quite the squeeze and I can't fit my multitool in there too but it means I can finally go riding without a pack!
Here is my beloved Specialized Pitch, still rocking on UK enduro races, last year i was thinking of changing this bike for something new as i have it for 7 years, however i followed the route of upgrading some of the components while i improve my mtb skills. Currently it runs on Lyrik 115-160, Fox RP2 and Dhx5 air rear shock, Hope brakes and wheel hubs, XT 1X11, RockShox reverb stealth with custom internal route (at where the factory holes where on the frame). Overall really happy with it, have totally zero issues with it, really fast in gravity enduro races.
Here is my beloved Specialized Pitch, still rocking on UK enduro races, last year i was thinking of changing this bike for something new as i have it for 7 years, however i followed the route of upgrading some of the components while i improve my mtb skills. Currently it runs on Lyrik 115-160, Fox RP2 and Dhx5 air rear shock, Hope brakes and wheel hubs, XT 1X11, RockShox reverb stealth with custom internal route (at where the factory holes where on the frame). Overall really happy with it, have totally zero issues with it, really fast in gravity enduro races.
If anyone is in need of a fork for their Pitch get at me! After 7+ years of faithful service and being the third owner it's finally time to retire my Pitch and I'm parting it out...
Here is my beloved Specialized Pitch, still rocking on UK enduro races, last year i was thinking of changing this bike for something new as i have it for 7 years, however i followed the route of upgrading some of the components while i improve my mtb skills. Currently it runs on Lyrik 115-160, Fox RP2 and Dhx5 air rear shock, Hope brakes and wheel hubs, XT 1X11, RockShox reverb stealth with custom internal route (at where the factory holes where on the frame). Overall really happy with it, have totally zero issues with it, really fast in gravity enduro races.
Great looking Pitch! My first one got powdercoated orange. I would be interested in seeing some more in-depth info on this custom internal cable routing for the dropper. Maybe a couple close up pics?
Here is my beloved Specialized Pitch, still rocking on UK enduro races, last year i was thinking of changing this bike for something new as i have it for 7 years, however i followed the route of upgrading some of the components while i improve my mtb skills. Currently it runs on Lyrik 115-160, Fox RP2 and Dhx5 air rear shock, Hope brakes and wheel hubs, XT 1X11, RockShox reverb stealth with custom internal route (at where the factory holes where on the frame). Overall really happy with it, have totally zero issues with it, really fast in gravity enduro races.
Great looking Pitch! My first one got powdercoated orange. I would be interested in seeing some more in-depth info on this custom internal cable routing for the dropper. Maybe a couple close up pics?
Just saw your Pitch, looks good mate, i like orange too obviously hahah, is that a Marzochi 55r? I had the length adjustable 55R before my Lyrik, but unfortunately i found it hard to service or find parts for it where i live. I plan to take some more pictures of it, just to help also others looking to follow the same route if they want. I have done this for almost a year now and had zero issues. Before I post any pictures, the main concept is, you need to go for the longest cable available for the reverb (i think they come in 2 sizes from RockShox) then cut it aprox. 20cm. Take a dremel (in my case i used dremel) or a drill and go for drill bit that has slightly bigger diameter of the cable. Then drill only one of the existed holes (they are 2) that is placed at the factory bottle hanger bolts under the main tube of the frame. Use sandpaper or your dremel to clean a bit the frame where you drilled so it's nice and smooth where the cable is entering (so it doesn't cut your cable at any time in the future). In my case i also used colour lack to protect the frame from rust on that spot. I also added 3 layers of duct tape on top of the hole and also twisted the duct tape a bit so it goes also a bit inside the whole (to cover every exposed metal and not to get rusty). Lastly you enter the cable from that spot, then all the way down to bottom bracket, and slide it above the bottom bracket as it normally would follow the closest route from the hole up to your saddle. Obviously you need to remove your bottom bracket to have fully access and pass the cable easily on that spot. Lastly once you adjust the cable at the position you want and connect it to your reverb, it's critical I think to make sure it's stays stable at the point where it enters your frame and at the same time you have no friction with the frame. Moreover it has sufficient length in case you readjust your reverb height (2-4cm in my case). To have no friction with the frame at the entry point i used again duct tape around the cable at the point where it enters to the whole, use as much duct dupe is needed to hold it quite tight at that spot. The length i covered on my cable was aprox. 4cm and i think i had 10 layers of duct tape. That's all and it works for me, after 1 year no rust or anything. Try this at your own risk of course
Thanks man. Yeah, it’s a 55r with the ATA, and it’s black now. Along with the bars and seat post. Perfect for this frame, but getting a little old lol. Thanks for the info on the dropper routing. I definitely plan on making this mod