YT Jeffsy 29 Thread

Author Message
flag timoroosendaal
Posted: Jun 23, 2017 at 13:18 Quote
wherermykeys wrote:
Has anyone noticed the wide chainstays on this bike? I keep hitting the stays with my heels. Never happened on my other bikes (27.5 or 29) I have my cleats adjusted so my feet are as far out as possible. Running Crankbros Mallet Es and Five Ten Maltese Falcons.

Yep, same here, running DMR V12 and 5/10 shoes. Rubbed so much the paint has come off completely on the right hand side, showing bare aluminium. But I have to say my foot is not pointing straight so my ankle hits the stay... But never had this much wear on other bikes.
flag gbeaks33
Posted: Jun 23, 2017 at 14:54 Quote
gramboh wrote:
Another dumb question: where is the frame serial number on YT bikes? There's a sticker with a QR code on it near the bottom bracket (and on the rear triangle), having trouble scanning it with my phone though. I need the serial # for insurance.

Thx

I was wondering this as well. On mine, there are some very small numbers and letters underneath the lower linkage is, but mine aren't legible because the plastic guard covers most of it. I assume that's the serial number though. Try seeing of they're printed underneath the rock guard on your bike.
flag gbeaks33
Posted: Jun 23, 2017 at 14:56 Quote
SkipSkovhugger wrote:
sdimit wrote:
hey guys i could use some help here. As soon as the outside temp here rose to about +30c, both guide rs brakes all of a sudden feel like sponges, as if the lever piston returns very very slowly when i squeeze the lever and it doesn't snap back. They're almost a year old and when i tried to do a bleed it felt like the lever piston was about to get stuck. do i have to service the pistons? they were supposed to use the updated piston but it seems not...wtf happened?Madder are they both going for warranty?? btw i was thinking of a set of hope e4s to get my bike going again and maybe get rid of the guides. does anybody know if the e4 calipers fit the sram adapters? or do i have to get both new hope disks and adapters? say a set of 203 and 183 with their relevant adapters? thanks

As far as I've heard from the mechanic at my LBS, only the MY2017 Guides have the updated pistons.

Maybe a warranty job, but buy a bleed kit and bleed them first. I was ready to send mine back to yt for replacement but a local mechanic said try a bleed first, as yt might suggest that anyways before they'll warranty anything. I did, and both levers are fine now. Had some gross brown liquid in there and tons of bubbles.

Otherwise, def a warranty replacement.
flag sdimit
Posted: Jun 23, 2017 at 17:53 Quote
gbeaks33 wrote:
SkipSkovhugger wrote:
sdimit wrote:
hey guys i could use some help here. As soon as the outside temp here rose to about +30c, both guide rs brakes all of a sudden feel like sponges, as if the lever piston returns very very slowly when i squeeze the lever and it doesn't snap back. They're almost a year old and when i tried to do a bleed it felt like the lever piston was about to get stuck. do i have to service the pistons? they were supposed to use the updated piston but it seems not...wtf happened?Madder are they both going for warranty?? btw i was thinking of a set of hope e4s to get my bike going again and maybe get rid of the guides. does anybody know if the e4 calipers fit the sram adapters? or do i have to get both new hope disks and adapters? say a set of 203 and 183 with their relevant adapters? thanks

As far as I've heard from the mechanic at my LBS, only the MY2017 Guides have the updated pistons.

Maybe a warranty job, but buy a bleed kit and bleed them first. I was ready to send mine back to yt for replacement but a local mechanic said try a bleed first, as yt might suggest that anyways before they'll warranty anything. I did, and both levers are fine now. Had some gross brown liquid in there and tons of bubbles.

Otherwise, def a warranty replacement.

well I tried to bleed one of them, but the lever just stuck all the way in and wouldn't return. in order to push back the piston I had to press hard on the lever syringe. that's not how I bled them a couple of months ago. ive already emailed yt and waiting to see what they'll say about it. either way I'm seriously thinking of getting rid both of them and installing a set of hope e4 for peace of mind. I wasn't expecting that from sram......
flag gbeaks33
Posted: Jun 23, 2017 at 19:32 Quote
sdimit wrote:
gbeaks33 wrote:
SkipSkovhugger wrote:


As far as I've heard from the mechanic at my LBS, only the MY2017 Guides have the updated pistons.

Maybe a warranty job, but buy a bleed kit and bleed them first. I was ready to send mine back to yt for replacement but a local mechanic said try a bleed first, as yt might suggest that anyways before they'll warranty anything. I did, and both levers are fine now. Had some gross brown liquid in there and tons of bubbles.

Otherwise, def a warranty replacement.

well I tried to bleed one of them, but the lever just stuck all the way in and wouldn't return. in order to push back the piston I had to press hard on the lever syringe. that's not how I bled them a couple of months ago. ive already emailed yt and waiting to see what they'll say about it. either way I'm seriously thinking of getting rid both of them and installing a set of hope e4 for peace of mind. I wasn't expecting that from sram......

System wide issue with all new sram brakes. Dude at bike hub here in Vancouver said they're doing a ton of those repairs now that it's hitting, 25+. The seals swell up with it gets hot. Have you tried spraying cold water on them or putting an ice pack on it for a few mins bad seeing if it goes away? If it does, that's your problem. If not, might be something else going on.
flag m88888m
O+
Posted: Jun 23, 2017 at 21:36 Quote
My guide Ultimate have the same issue.

They are going to YT for warranty, and I will use the opportunity to sell them new when they come back.

Haven't been happy with their performance at all... will swap them for Formula The Ones if I can find some
flag Makun
Posted: Jun 24, 2017 at 6:20 Quote
Thanks a lot, I got the cranks off and will check out the Hope PF92.

arphia wrote:

Turbine crank should be self extracting, just twist out the 8mm hex until the crank comes off. Park tools sells bearing cup removers and a BB press, but they aren't cheap.
I've heard people say good things about the Hope pf92, but I've never used one myself.
flag Makun
Posted: Jun 24, 2017 at 6:23 Quote
Thanks Luckymullen, as I am buying stuff I will get the rod and washers as well.

LUCKYMULLEN wrote:

I used a home made press (washers with felt attached to one side and steel rod) bought off e-bay and put my press-fit bb into my carbon Jeffsy without a problem, barely a 5 minute job. It has been perfect since and I expect to do a load more as I ride the bike in the Scottish slop. Just make sure it goes in evenly and straight and only tighten it to snug and no more.
flag Makun
Posted: Jun 24, 2017 at 6:31 Quote
Thanks for the advice and videos, I bookmarked them for reference! Threaded rod and washers seems very doable so I will go for that but as you say, I will need a replacement ready. I got the cranks off and cleaned as much as I could and am researching bottom brackets now. The Hope product was mentioned so I will check that but I don't suppose you have any go to bottom bracket replacement?

dscaz wrote:
These guys are dead on. Unscrew the 8mm bolt in the middle of the drive side crank, and the crank arm and chainring will slide off as you unscrew it. Then just pull the non drive side crank arm to remove it and the spindle - you many need to tap the end of the spindle that's sticking out on the non-drive side with a mallet to get it moving.

To remove the bottom bracket, a hammer and a punch will do the trick (note that extracting the existing BB in this way will will likely damage it beyond repair, so make sure it's toast). Basically, just position the punch on the inside of the bearing and start tapping around the perimeter until it pops out. This video should give you the general idea:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmOSu8JGJks

If you want to get a little fancier with removal, you can make a bearing punch from a piece of thin pipe (electrical conduit works well) and a hacksaw:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VkY879pMafE

Once the old BB is out, clean up the BB shell, and then a homemade bearing press put together from a threaded rod, couple of nuts, and a couple large washers should fit the new BB smoothly.

Park, Enduro, and every other tool manufacturer makes bearing punches, pullers, and presses if you'd prefer the 'real' tools. Way more $ though.
flag arphia
O+
Posted: Jun 24, 2017 at 7:15 Quote
I forgot to say to make sure you get the BB for 30mm spindle, most pf92 are for 24mm
flag fautquecaswing
Posted: Jun 24, 2017 at 7:39 Quote
I get struggle a second time by the fu...ing 19mm wrench needed to change de derailleur hanger. Really YT engineers drank to much beers that day...
BTW the Jeffsy's hanger seems really fragile, ok it is the goal of a hanger, but I already twist 2 of them w/o doing anything particular.

At least it makes me design a very light 19mm wrench I can always bring with me.

photo

photo

photo

photo
flag sdimit
Posted: Jun 24, 2017 at 8:47 Quote
fautquecaswing wrote:
I get struggle a second time by the fu...ing 19mm wrench needed to change de derailleur hanger. Really YT engineers drank to much beers that day...
BTW the Jeffsy's hanger seems really fragile, ok it is the goal of a hanger, but I already twist 2 of them w/o doing anything particular.

At least it makes me design a very light 19mm wrench I can always bring with me.

photo

photo

photo

photo

are you aware that its a reverse thread if im not mistaken.
flag fautquecaswing
Posted: Jun 24, 2017 at 8:50 Quote
sdimit wrote:
are you aware that its a reverse thread if im not mistaken.

Yes it is.
What is annoying me is the need for a HUGE 19mm wrench, where you generally only need for a few regular small hex screws...
flag dscaz
Posted: Jun 24, 2017 at 9:48 Quote
My home riding area isn't hard on bottom brackets so I don't have to replace them often and don't have a go-to brand. However, folks seem happy with the Hope replacement, so I'd check that out. And good point by arphia - make sure you get the bb92 model that fits a 30mm spindle.

I view bottom brackets as a part that will eventually need replacement, like a chain, cassette, or brakepads, and just plan on replacing them every year or two. Because of that, I never buy the absolute most expensive option, because even if it lasts a season more it probably wasn't worth 4x the price. YMMV though.

The Hope looks like a good balance of durability and cost.

Makun wrote:
Thanks for the advice and videos, I bookmarked them for reference! Threaded rod and washers seems very doable so I will go for that but as you say, I will need a replacement ready. I got the cranks off and cleaned as much as I could and am researching bottom brackets now. The Hope product was mentioned so I will check that but I don't suppose you have any go to bottom bracket replacement?

dscaz wrote:
These guys are dead on. Unscrew the 8mm bolt in the middle of the drive side crank, and the crank arm and chainring will slide off as you unscrew it. Then just pull the non drive side crank arm to remove it and the spindle - you many need to tap the end of the spindle that's sticking out on the non-drive side with a mallet to get it moving.

To remove the bottom bracket, a hammer and a punch will do the trick (note that extracting the existing BB in this way will will likely damage it beyond repair, so make sure it's toast). Basically, just position the punch on the inside of the bearing and start tapping around the perimeter until it pops out. This video should give you the general idea:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmOSu8JGJks

If you want to get a little fancier with removal, you can make a bearing punch from a piece of thin pipe (electrical conduit works well) and a hacksaw:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VkY879pMafE

Once the old BB is out, clean up the BB shell, and then a homemade bearing press put together from a threaded rod, couple of nuts, and a couple large washers should fit the new BB smoothly.

Park, Enduro, and every other tool manufacturer makes bearing punches, pullers, and presses if you'd prefer the 'real' tools. Way more $ though.
flag sdimit
Posted: Jun 24, 2017 at 14:33 Quote
gbeaks33 wrote:
sdimit wrote:
gbeaks33 wrote:


Maybe a warranty job, but buy a bleed kit and bleed them first. I was ready to send mine back to yt for replacement but a local mechanic said try a bleed first, as yt might suggest that anyways before they'll warranty anything. I did, and both levers are fine now. Had some gross brown liquid in there and tons of bubbles.

Otherwise, def a warranty replacement.

well I tried to bleed one of them, but the lever just stuck all the way in and wouldn't return. in order to push back the piston I had to press hard on the lever syringe. that's not how I bled them a couple of months ago. ive already emailed yt and waiting to see what they'll say about it. either way I'm seriously thinking of getting rid both of them and installing a set of hope e4 for peace of mind. I wasn't expecting that from sram......

System wide issue with all new sram brakes. Dude at bike hub here in Vancouver said they're doing a ton of those repairs now that it's hitting, 25+. The seals swell up with it gets hot. Have you tried spraying cold water on them or putting an ice pack on it for a few mins bad seeing if it goes away? If it does, that's your problem. If not, might be something else going on.

well putting an ice pack for 20mins certainly did the trick.....but only temporarilyCry as soon as i hit the trails it did it againMad
cooling down stuck guide rs levers

 


Copyright © 2000 - 2024. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv42 0.019900
Mobile Version of Website