DVO appreciation and support thread (AKA the Ced Thread) - Pics, ride reports and discussion

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DVO appreciation and support thread (AKA the Ced Thread) - Pics, ride reports and discussion
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flag kwapik
Posted: Dec 24, 2020 at 10:18 Quote
Yes that's the spacer. And it might be the same as others - that I don't know.
flag Remonster
Posted: Dec 29, 2020 at 12:44 Quote
kwapik wrote:
There is a nylon spacer DVO uses to reduce stoke on the Topaz. Call DVO - they are extremely helpful.

I tried emailing them a few weeks ago and they never got back to me. I called today and nobody picked up and the voicemail was full.

I've heard great things about DVO customer service but I can't seem to get the same experience. I talked to Ronnie in person a looooonng time ago and he was a rad guy, I just gotta get a hold of him haha.

I'm pretty close to pulling the trigger on a 210x55mm but I still want to confirm a few things with the factory before buying. 1. Confirm you can go from 210x55mm to 210x50mm with internal spacer.
2. Confirm they'll do a custom tune on a used shock. I really want something dialed to my Stumpy.
flag Dkutassy
Posted: Dec 29, 2020 at 13:14 Quote
Considering it's around the holidays I'm not surprised they aren't at the office for calls.

When I e-mailed them about general questions they either didn't get back to me or took a while. When I've had questions about an order I made they respond same day.
flag beardedindian
O+
Posted: Dec 29, 2020 at 13:27 Quote
Remonster wrote:
kwapik wrote:
There is a nylon spacer DVO uses to reduce stoke on the Topaz. Call DVO - they are extremely helpful.

I tried emailing them a few weeks ago and they never got back to me. I called today and nobody picked up and the voicemail was full.

I've heard great things about DVO customer service but I can't seem to get the same experience. I talked to Ronnie in person a looooonng time ago and he was a rad guy, I just gotta get a hold of him haha.

I'm pretty close to pulling the trigger on a 210x55mm but I still want to confirm a few things with the factory before buying. 1. Confirm you can go from 210x55mm to 210x50mm with internal spacer.
2. Confirm they'll do a custom tune on a used shock. I really want something dialed to my Stumpy.

They're out through the new year. Can't remember where they posted it. IG maybe
flag Remonster
Posted: Dec 29, 2020 at 14:00 Quote
beardedindian wrote:
They're out through the new year. Can't remember where they posted it. IG maybe

Cool cool. I'll call next week. Thanks.
flag Smacktooth
Posted: Dec 29, 2020 at 15:42 Quote
Can anyone help me find the right fitting for bleeding the damper on a Topaz T3? I was told by worldwide cyclery )where I purchased the rebuild kit) that it was a “Sram style with threads.”. However, I just borrowed a sram bleed kit from a friend, and the bleed syringes will not thread into the bleed port on the Topaz damper. It appears the threads are SLIGHTLY too small on the sram syringe. Can anyone point me to exactly what I need that will fit the Topaz bleed port? Thanks!
flag Dkutassy
Posted: Dec 29, 2020 at 17:27 Quote
Smacktooth wrote:
Can anyone help me find the right fitting for bleeding the damper on a Topaz T3? I was told by worldwide cyclery )where I purchased the rebuild kit) that it was a “Sram style with threads.”. However, I just borrowed a sram bleed kit from a friend, and the bleed syringes will not thread into the bleed port on the Topaz damper. It appears the threads are SLIGHTLY too small on the sram syringe. Can anyone point me to exactly what I need that will fit the Topaz bleed port? Thanks!

I'm not sure if anyone makes an exact fit. Previously I was just shoving a silicone hose in the bleed hole with a syringe at the other end. I just got an EZmtb bleed kit with what seems like it has every single bleed fitting made for mountain bikes. None of them have threads that match my Topaz bleed screw.

As long as the o-ring is a good fit you don't need it to thread in. You just don't want to suck in any air when cycling the shock through it's travel for the bleed. It's not likely to suck in any air moving slowly.

I'd love to know if someone found a direct fit. Having it threaded in would be a bit easier to work with.
flag Smacktooth
Posted: Dec 29, 2020 at 18:07 Quote
Dkutassy wrote:
I'm not sure if anyone makes an exact fit. Previously I was just shoving a silicone hose in the bleed hole with a syringe at the other end. I just got an EZmtb bleed kit with what seems like it has every single bleed fitting made for mountain bikes. None of them have threads that match my Topaz bleed screw.

As long as the o-ring is a good fit you don't need it to thread in. You just don't want to suck in any air when cycling the shock through it's travel for the bleed. It's not likely to suck in any air moving slowly.

I'd love to know if someone found a direct fit. Having it threaded in would be a bit easier to work with.

Thanks, I have just found a little squirt bottle with a tapered tip that seems like I can jam in there pretty well to make a seal. It's not syringe, but you're not actually pushing any fluid in through the bleed port, so I don't see why this wouldn't work, no? Feel like I'm gonna need a few extras arms to do this though.

Yeah, kinda frustrating that there's no clear fitting piece for this....
flag Dkutassy
Posted: Dec 29, 2020 at 18:18 Quote
Smacktooth wrote:
Dkutassy wrote:
I'm not sure if anyone makes an exact fit. Previously I was just shoving a silicone hose in the bleed hole with a syringe at the other end. I just got an EZmtb bleed kit with what seems like it has every single bleed fitting made for mountain bikes. None of them have threads that match my Topaz bleed screw.

As long as the o-ring is a good fit you don't need it to thread in. You just don't want to suck in any air when cycling the shock through it's travel for the bleed. It's not likely to suck in any air moving slowly.

I'd love to know if someone found a direct fit. Having it threaded in would be a bit easier to work with.

Thanks, I have just found a little squirt bottle with a tapered tip that seems like I can jam in there pretty well to make a seal. It's not syringe, but you're not actually pushing any fluid in through the bleed port, so I don't see why this wouldn't work, no? Feel like I'm gonna need a few extras arms to do this though.

Yeah, kinda frustrating that there's no clear fitting piece for this....

Definitely put the front shock eyelet in a soft jaw vise. Its a whole lot easier. I have done it without a vise just holding it by hand but it's a pain in the ass.
flag Smacktooth
Posted: Dec 29, 2020 at 20:53 Quote
Well, I realized that the bladder does actually come a bit past the retaining ring till it hits the lip. But now when I try to pump up the bladder, it gets to about 150 psi then spews out some air and the pressure drops to around 100. Anyone know what’s going on?
flag Dkutassy
Posted: Dec 30, 2020 at 6:27 Quote
Smacktooth wrote:
Well, I realized that the bladder does actually come a bit past the retaining ring till it hits the lip. But now when I try to pump up the bladder, it gets to about 150 psi then spews out some air and the pressure drops to around 100. Anyone know what’s going on?

In three rebuilds I have not had to replace the bladder but I've seen other people report they've had to. DVO recommends replacing the bladder with every rebuild and it seems like old ones don't always reseal.

With that out of the way I wouldn't give up yet. First and foremost make sure the bladder is fully seated into the end cap and everything is seated evenly into reservoir shell! If it's slightly crooked you won't get a good seal. I've seen them seal even without being seated fully against the retaining ring. Make sure you have a nice thin layer of grease around the outside so the bladder slips into place and try your best to fully seat it up against the retaining ring.
flag Smacktooth
Posted: Dec 30, 2020 at 8:59 Quote
Thanks so much for your help. When I first tried to pump it up, one edge of the end cap did hang up on the retaining ring and it went a bit skewed, that’s when I first heard it blow out some air. I’ve since straightened it up, but still can’t get past 150psi.

If I pull out the bladder again to regrease/check it, will I need to bleed the damper again?

Thanks again, I would totally just get help from DVO but they’re on break till next week I believe. I bought this bike last Tuesday and still haven’t been able to ride it due to all these shock shenanigans!
flag Dkutassy
Posted: Dec 30, 2020 at 10:09 Quote
I don't think you'll need to bleed the shock again as long as you leave the bleed screw in with the climb switch on firm. It wouldn't hurt to bleed it just to be sure you don't have any air in there.

After you take the bladder out put some more fluid in the resi so some overflows when you put the bladder back in. This should push out any air and I can't think of how air would find its way back into the staunchion.

If you notice fluid moving into the resi after you take out the bladder I would definitely rebleed. That would all be fluid flowing over from the stanchion.

 


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