DVO appreciation and support thread (AKA the Ced Thread) - Pics, ride reports and discussion

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DVO appreciation and support thread (AKA the Ced Thread) - Pics, ride reports and discussion
Author Message
flag ka81
Posted: Jul 20, 2022 at 8:10 Quote
sayrius wrote:
Any 36.5mm id spring fits. Cane Creek and the others. Even sprindex with adapters.
thanx.
Already got some info on mtbr

https://www.mtbr.com/threads/dvo-jade-x-coil.1115727/page-3#post-15678426
flag 13en
O+
Posted: Jul 22, 2022 at 9:38 Quote
photo
anybody else had this happen
flag Lololmalol
O+
Posted: Jul 22, 2022 at 9:53 Quote
It’s sort of hard to see in the photo but have you put that in backwards? Looks like the taper on the seal is facing the wrong way
flag 13en
O+
Posted: Jul 22, 2022 at 10:03 Quote
Lololmalol wrote:
It’s sort of hard to see in the photo but have you put that in backwards? Looks like the taper on the seal is facing the wrong way
i dont think so, i have never messed with it before, it is just twisted around when it popped out. took apart the shock and there is definitely only one way it can go in.
flag shwinn8
O+
Posted: Jul 22, 2022 at 10:09 Quote
lack of lubrication
flag eshew
Posted: Jul 22, 2022 at 10:18 Quote
Just a dust wiper seal, should be able to remove the air can and plop it back into place. Add some lube to the inside, should be good it go. Although if those seals are 50+ hours might be time for fresh ones.
flag mammal
O+
Posted: Jul 22, 2022 at 10:24 Quote
eshew wrote:
Just a dust wiper seal, should be able to remove the air can and plop it back into place. Add some lube to the inside, should be good it go. Although if those seals are 50+ hours might be time for fresh ones.

Yep, I just gave them the same advice on the Ripmo AF forum. Remove air can, clean everything thoroughly, try to carefully pop the wiper back in place.
flag 13en
O+
Posted: Jul 22, 2022 at 11:20 Quote
mammal wrote:
eshew wrote:
Just a dust wiper seal, should be able to remove the air can and plop it back into place. Add some lube to the inside, should be good it go. Although if those seals are 50+ hours might be time for fresh ones.

Yep, I just gave them the same advice on the Ripmo AF forum. Remove air can, clean everything thoroughly, try to carefully pop the wiper back in place.

Yep i ended up doing that and it held up for one ride but I had to put 210 Psi in it to get it to feel like it used to with 160 which is interesting
flag mammal
O+
Posted: Jul 22, 2022 at 11:33 Quote
13en wrote:
mammal wrote:
eshew wrote:
Just a dust wiper seal, should be able to remove the air can and plop it back into place. Add some lube to the inside, should be good it go. Although if those seals are 50+ hours might be time for fresh ones.

Yep, I just gave them the same advice on the Ripmo AF forum. Remove air can, clean everything thoroughly, try to carefully pop the wiper back in place.

Yep i ended up doing that and it held up for one ride but I had to put 210 Psi in it to get it to feel like it used to with 160 which is interesting

Did you cycle the shock periodically while you were pumping up the air chamber? This action equalizes the + and - air chambers of the shock as you go, and makes sure the number you're reading on the pump is the accurate final number in your + side. If you don't do that, a lot of that 210 psi will go toward filling up the negative side once the shock cycles a few times. So what you think is 210, would probably settle back down to the 160 you're used to.

Maybe you know that, I only mention it because that wiper seal has nothing to do with holding air in. The air is held in by the thin orings inside the air can.
flag 13en
O+
Posted: Jul 22, 2022 at 12:03 Quote
mammal wrote:
13en wrote:
mammal wrote:


Yep, I just gave them the same advice on the Ripmo AF forum. Remove air can, clean everything thoroughly, try to carefully pop the wiper back in place.

Yep i ended up doing that and it held up for one ride but I had to put 210 Psi in it to get it to feel like it used to with 160 which is interesting

Did you cycle the shock periodically while you were pumping up the air chamber? This action equalizes the + and - air chambers of the shock as you go, and makes sure the number you're reading on the pump is the accurate final number in your + side. If you don't do that, a lot of that 210 psi will go toward filling up the negative side once the shock cycles a few times. So what you think is 210, would probably settle back down to the 160 you're used to.

Maybe you know that, I only mention it because that wiper seal has nothing to do with holding air in. The air is held in by the thin orings inside the air can.
Must not have cycled it enough during filling up I guess so that explains that. Thx

As to the wiper seal holding air in, either my o rings or something else inside are damaged, or the wiper seal definitely helps to some extent as when it was off like in the photo, air would come out every time you put any weight on it/compressed the shock until eventually enough had come out that it held (few mm from full compression under my 155lbs).
flag mammal
O+
Posted: Jul 22, 2022 at 12:11 Quote
13en wrote:
mammal wrote:
13en wrote:


Yep i ended up doing that and it held up for one ride but I had to put 210 Psi in it to get it to feel like it used to with 160 which is interesting

Did you cycle the shock periodically while you were pumping up the air chamber? This action equalizes the + and - air chambers of the shock as you go, and makes sure the number you're reading on the pump is the accurate final number in your + side. If you don't do that, a lot of that 210 psi will go toward filling up the negative side once the shock cycles a few times. So what you think is 210, would probably settle back down to the 160 you're used to.

Maybe you know that, I only mention it because that wiper seal has nothing to do with holding air in. The air is held in by the thin orings inside the air can.
Must not have cycled it enough during filling up I guess so that explains that. Thx

As to the wiper seal holding air in, either my o rings or something else inside are damaged, or the wiper seal definitely helps to some extent as when it was off like in the photo, air would come out every time you put any weight on it/compressed the shock until eventually enough had come out that it held (few mm from full compression under my 155lbs).

Perhaps a nominal amount could pass through that seal if it wasn't seated, but I don't believe you'd lose any pressure from the air chamber through there. It's pretty much just a dust wiper. It allows lubrication to pass through from the inside (slickoleum after a rebuild), so everyone's air pressure would disappear in no time if that seal was meant to hold air in.
flag 13en
O+
Posted: Jul 22, 2022 at 22:41 Quote
mammal wrote:
13en wrote:
mammal wrote:


Did you cycle the shock periodically while you were pumping up the air chamber? This action equalizes the + and - air chambers of the shock as you go, and makes sure the number you're reading on the pump is the accurate final number in your + side. If you don't do that, a lot of that 210 psi will go toward filling up the negative side once the shock cycles a few times. So what you think is 210, would probably settle back down to the 160 you're used to.

Maybe you know that, I only mention it because that wiper seal has nothing to do with holding air in. The air is held in by the thin orings inside the air can.
Must not have cycled it enough during filling up I guess so that explains that. Thx

As to the wiper seal holding air in, either my o rings or something else inside are damaged, or the wiper seal definitely helps to some extent as when it was off like in the photo, air would come out every time you put any weight on it/compressed the shock until eventually enough had come out that it held (few mm from full compression under my 155lbs).

Perhaps a nominal amount could pass through that seal if it wasn't seated, but I don't believe you'd lose any pressure from the air chamber through there. It's pretty much just a dust wiper. It allows lubrication to pass through from the inside (slickoleum after a rebuild), so everyone's air pressure would disappear in no time if that seal was meant to hold air in.
Well I definitely lost quite a lot of pressure through there, but my main seal inside might very well be damaged as the shock has had a slow leak for a while now, about 20 psi a day.

maybe why the dust wiper blew out if it had too much pressure from the other seal leaking....

also, on that note, does anyone have to top of their topaz regularly? I have heard some of the older and even newer shocks leak really bad
flag ka81
Posted: Jul 26, 2022 at 0:14 Quote
One more question, if I may:

so I measured my standard DVO spring(for my Jade X 200x57), it;s about 123.8x36.5.



Found some ÖHLINS Lightweight Coil Spring - 113mm x 57mm - 18075 https://www.bike24.com/p2276606.html?sku=964354

bigquotesDiameter: 36mm (1.42")
Length: 113mm (4,45")
Travel: 57mm (2,24")


Will it fit my shock ?

Thanx!

Standard spring for DVO Jade X 400x2.25 36.5 mm

Standard spring for DVO Jade X 400x2.25 123.8 mm
flag GenesiZ
Posted: Jul 29, 2022 at 0:57 Quote
Hi DVO enthousiast,

I've got a 140mm Sapphire D1 with 32mm stations on my Sour Crumble and I'm riding it harder by the week. I occasionally take it out for an enduro-ride and I was wondering if I would notice the difference in stiffness going to a 140mm Diamond D1 with 35mm stations?

My weight is 95kg without the bike.

photo
flag Remonster
Posted: Aug 11, 2022 at 7:10 Quote
Stumpjumper Topaz 3 Setup

Hey guys...just sharing some setup notes for anyone else throwing a Topaz 3 onto the latest generation Stumpjumper. I have a 2019 LT (150mm) but I don't think they have tweaked the leverage curves much after 2019.

The shock behaves very linear on this bike. Without volume spacers in the positive chamber the shock has very little bottom out support on this frame. That might be someone's ideal setup - but definitely not mine.

In case anyone is curious I weigh 150lbs. I'm running 180psi in the can and 180psi in the bladder which has my sag feeling perfect. 5 clicks of rebound from fully closed, currently 1 volume spacer in the positive chamber. With the single volume spacer in the positive chamber it still feels too linear, so I'll be adding one or two more. I seem to be bottoming out on small features and medium hits despite 27/28% sag.

Also - pro tip - put a zip tie or another O-Ring on the shock shaft to indicate the "true" bottom of travel. The stroke of the shock (50mm on my bike) is far shorter than shock shaft and it's hard to tell when you have used all of your travel.

 


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