That's good to know but it would be a bummer to have to pay upwards of $35 just to get the fitting.
basic brake bleed fittings, damper fitting, and reverb fittings are all the exact same thread size.
Then that would indicate that the standard sram brake bleed fitting should work. Has anyone found this to be the case?
I've found it's pretty important to have a fitting that uses an oring seal placed at the correct distance from the threads. I've previously used a fitting that threaded in OK, but didn't have the seal in the right spot. Although I could use it to burp air out of the damper, I couldn't pull a vacuum to suck any residual bubbles out, so the bleed wasn't as good. With the proper fitting (and a good quality syringe), I can pull a solid vaccuum, and get a really solid bleed. What ever you end up doing, keep that in mind.
Here's the picture that DVO sent me (they called it a Rockshox tip). I'll update tonight if the one I'm using looks any different, but I think it's the same:
basic brake bleed fittings, damper fitting, and reverb fittings are all the exact same thread size.
Then that would indicate that the standard sram brake bleed fitting should work. Has anyone found this to be the case?
I've found it's pretty important to have a fitting that uses an oring seal placed at the correct distance from the threads. I've previously used a fitting that threaded in OK, but didn't have the seal in the right spot. Although I could use it to burp air out of the damper, I couldn't pull a vacuum to suck any residual bubbles out, so the bleed wasn't as good. With the proper fitting (and a good quality syringe), I can pull a solid vaccuum, and get a really solid bleed. What ever you end up doing, keep that in mind.
Here's the picture that DVO sent me (they called it a Rockshox tip). I'll update tonight if the one I'm using looks any different, but I think it's the same:
Thanks for including the pictures as that fitting looks exactly the same as the extra fitting that comes in the Sram bleed kit for the older brakes prior to bleeding edge. That would be pretty cool if I can just use the extra fitting from the bleed kit. The problem now is that the two syringes obviously have had DOT in them and you need a special syringe for the fitting to thread into.
Does anyone have experience with both the Jade and the Jade-X? Can the LSC dial on the Jade function as a pseudo climb switch? I find the climb switch on the Jade-X a bit extreme and the middle LSC setting not always firm enough whilst climbing.
I’m researching options for long shocking my bike and a 216x63 (8.5x2.5) is the best starting point and both shocks are available in this size as are different size spring clips to limit stroke so I don’t end up going too far if I decide to pull the trigger. As this is an experiment the Jade is a cheaper option.
Bike is a Ripmo v2. I have 7-8mm of clearance between the cascade clevis and the seat tube so a 216 e2e should work fine with the added benefit of raising the bb so I can try a smaller rear wheel out back while preserving the geo, at least mostly.
Does anyone have experience with both the Jade and the Jade-X? Can the LSC dial on the Jade function as a pseudo climb switch? I find the climb switch on the Jade-X a bit extreme and the middle LSC setting not always firm enough whilst climbing.
I’m researching options for long shocking my bike and a 216x63 (8.5x2.5) is the best starting point and both shocks are available in this size as are different size spring clips to limit stroke so I don’t end up going too far if I decide to pull the trigger. As this is an experiment the Jade is a cheaper option.
Bike is a Ripmo v2. I have 7-8mm of clearance between the cascade clevis and the seat tube so a 216 e2e should work fine with the added benefit of raising the bb so I can try a smaller rear wheel out back while preserving the geo, at least mostly.
I had a Jade on a bike I only occasionally would pedal up hill. I would rather climb with the compression open than have to count the number of clicks to open and close a bunch of times. Get the shock Jade X. I'm sure there will be some Black Friday sales.
After looking at the Gen 3 Topaz, looks like they made the inner shaft 27% bigger to help trunnion mount bikes (which mine is). Maybe that upgrade would be worthwhile... Lets see if they make shocks 25% off like forks are right now
After looking at the Gen 3 Topaz, looks like they made the inner shaft 27% bigger to help trunnion mount bikes (which mine is). Maybe that upgrade would be worthwhile... Lets see if they make shocks 25% off like forks are right now
They've also tweaked the air chamber volumes, making initial stroke more plush. If I see a deal on a Ripmo AF take-off, I may jump on it.
Does anyone have experience with both the Jade and the Jade-X? Can the LSC dial on the Jade function as a pseudo climb switch? I find the climb switch on the Jade-X a bit extreme and the middle LSC setting not always firm enough whilst climbing.
I’m researching options for long shocking my bike and a 216x63 (8.5x2.5) is the best starting point and both shocks are available in this size as are different size spring clips to limit stroke so I don’t end up going too far if I decide to pull the trigger. As this is an experiment the Jade is a cheaper option.
Bike is a Ripmo v2. I have 7-8mm of clearance between the cascade clevis and the seat tube so a 216 e2e should work fine with the added benefit of raising the bb so I can try a smaller rear wheel out back while preserving the geo, at least mostly.
I had a Jade on a bike I only occasionally would pedal up hill. I would rather climb with the compression open than have to count the number of clicks to open and close a bunch of times. Get the shock Jade X. I'm sure there will be some Black Friday sales.
Thanks for the input. After unbolting the shock from my forward mount to double check all clearances if I extend the e2e, it actually won’t work as my f/r triangles contact each other after only a few mm of yoke extension.
I’m gonna keep my eyes open for shock sales as I’d consider ditching my current coil for the newest Topaz plus it’d match my Onyx.
i've got a 210x55mm jade x. i noticed a little sloppiness in the rear of the bike. i've traced this to the shock. i changed out the shock and it disappeared. now if i bolt the shock into the bike frame (for steadiness) and i grab the body of the shock, i have noticable slop/movement were the shaft enters the shock body. what do i need to cure this? is it the white nylon (glide ring) from the shim piston? can i buy this separate to the shim piston? would it be the seal head of the recommended service kit that screws into the shock body? new shaft?
also if i just open up the shock body by unthreading where the shaft enters the body, do i have to perform a full bleed on reinstall if that is all that i touch?