Specialized demo owners club

PB Forum :: Specialized
Specialized demo owners club
Author Message
flag BeamorG
Posted: Oct 9, 2020 at 11:03 Quote
littleman22 wrote:
BeamorG wrote:
Hey there, newly Demo 8 Carbon Owner. Anyone messed with the drivetrain to make this bike more "climbable." Where I am (Santa Cruz) unless I shuttle, I have to climb like 1000+ feet in one mile maybe 2. This 7 speed aint gonna cut it.

In my opinion. if you're climbing, you chose the wrong bike. My only thought is being the bike is a 7spd. would a 10 speed cassette even fit on the hub.

Thanks, but I did not buy th4e wrong bike, cause I have others in the stable, I am just being Lazy and dont want to walk this pig anywhere, LOL. Thanks
flag MTBrandonLee
Posted: Oct 9, 2020 at 12:43 Quote
Brasher wrote:
bikerboywill wrote:
From many years mountain biking you either

Buy an Enduro bike and pedal it to the top

Buy a dh bike and push it to the top

There’s no proper way to get a dh bike to pedal

Hold on there partner

Demoduro

180mm fox 36, 200mm rear
64 deg HA
77 deg SA
130% anti squat
9-46T 11 speed
210mm dropper

photo

I'm liking it
flag veloivars
Posted: Oct 9, 2020 at 13:11 Quote
Hello to the group, new to Specialized Demo bikes, but I wonted to try that mullet trend, so this is my try. Big Grin

Specialized demo 2021 29 27.5

Specialized demo 2021 29 27.5

photo

photo

Specialized demo 2021 29 27.5
flag littleman22
Posted: Oct 9, 2020 at 17:31 Quote
BeamorG wrote:
littleman22 wrote:
BeamorG wrote:
Hey there, newly Demo 8 Carbon Owner. Anyone messed with the drivetrain to make this bike more "climbable." Where I am (Santa Cruz) unless I shuttle, I have to climb like 1000+ feet in one mile maybe 2. This 7 speed aint gonna cut it.

In my opinion. if you're climbing, you chose the wrong bike. My only thought is being the bike is a 7spd. would a 10 speed cassette even fit on the hub.

Thanks, but I did not buy th4e wrong bike, cause I have others in the stable, I am just being Lazy and dont want to walk this pig anywhere, LOL. Thanks

LMFAO. I got so sick and tired of walking my bike up hills as well. I went out and bought a second rig more aim and all mountain riding just to pedal up instead of walking up.
flag Tristanc
Posted: Oct 9, 2020 at 17:47 Quote
photo
I have a feeling those washers are not stock
Whats supposed to be there lol
Also is 22.2mm the correct bushing width for the back?
flag simov49
Posted: Oct 17, 2020 at 3:05 Quote
Lower shock eye: 19.2Nm
Upped shock eye: 12.4Nm

These are the correct torque specs for the 2016 S-Works demo, right? Got them from the site, but I am not sure if the S-Works doesn't have some special torque specs...
flag BeamorG
Posted: Oct 19, 2020 at 13:37 Quote
simov49 wrote:
Lower shock eye: 19.2Nm
Upped shock eye: 12.4Nm

These are the correct torque specs for the 2016 S-Works demo, right? Got them from the site, but I am not sure if the S-Works doesn't have some special torque specs...

Sometimes they are on the part. But if you call their Tech support they can assist or call a local dealer. My dealer has ALL of the specs I need. I just have to keep it to phone calls. Otherwise, I'd have one new bike a month

DG
flag CarolineHix
Posted: Oct 20, 2020 at 11:46 Quote
Eek quick question..
Does anyone else find they have to re-tighten their headset after a ride ?

Literally just bought a brand new dh bike (so everything is torqued by the manufactuer) and the same thing happened after riding it the first time... play in headset. Of course its remedied by redoing the top cap and stem bolts. but is this actually normal for a dh fork ? but people don't talk about it ?

For more context. I tighten the top cap until the spacers dont move and check by rocking the bike with the front brake held.
Then i use torque wrench 1Nm short of the maximum. (8Nm in this case, so i tighten until 7Nm).
But it still seems to come loose.. Confused . Again this is a brand new bike so nothing is ovalized or worn out.

Any suggestions ?

Extra context - I do pull up on the bars quite a lot (doing wheelies and stuff).. but it should be able to stay tight even then right.
flag bikerboywill
Posted: Oct 20, 2020 at 11:51 Quote
Are you undoing the top crowns of the fork before tightening the top cap?
flag CarolineHix
Posted: Oct 20, 2020 at 11:54 Quote
Undoing the top cap and then the stem bolts. then tightening the top cap and rerightening the stem bolts.
flag bigburd
Posted: Oct 20, 2020 at 13:51 Quote
You need to be undoing the crown bolts too, otherwise you are just pulling against the crown and not preloading the headset, I assume it's a DH fork ?
flag CarolineHix
Posted: Oct 21, 2020 at 1:43 Quote
Eek wait wut ?? you need to undo the lower crown as well ??? Very confused uhh... you have upper and lower.

This is the one im undoing/retightening. the lower one doesnt need to be adjusted right ? (it hasn't move at all)
photo
flag bikerboywill
Posted: Oct 21, 2020 at 1:57 Quote
Yes that’s right.

1: undo bolts on the upper crown on forks. Usually 3 bolts
2: tighten top cap bolt
3: re- tighten upper crown

One thing to watch out for is you have enough spacers one the steerer. If the top cap bottoms out on the steerer tube then it won’t tighten anymore
flag CarolineHix
Posted: Oct 21, 2020 at 2:30 Quote
Eek But that's the problem. The reason for asking is the same thing happened on the demo until i bought a stemlock.

Was curious how often you guys needed to retighten it.

Looking though threads of 'Dual-crown forks headset play' and stuff like that. It seem's its a common issue.

Am i supposed to be tightening to the full 8Nm (that's what is marked on the crown) or is that the maximum and will damage the threads ? (if it does mean 8Nm then i clearly haven't been tightening enough so its gonna come loose Rolleyes huh)

Also, they never seem to tell you how tight the stem bolt should be (the one for the stem itself). Only the stanctions are labelled. Does the stem bolt need to be done up stupidly tight ?

You can see after the first ride how much play was removed from the dirt on the stanction.
photo
flag dh-corn
Posted: Oct 21, 2020 at 2:34 Quote
Note from me: When tightening the headset, make sure that you lift the cockpit with your hand from the lower crown. Then you will also notice when the headset shells are all in place. Otherwise it might be slightly tilted and get some play when you start driving.

 


Copyright © 2000 - 2024. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv65 0.024888
Mobile Version of Website