Specialized demo owners club

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Specialized demo owners club
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Posted: Nov 9, 2020 at 10:14 Quote
bigburd wrote:
There was a batch of Ohlins TTX that had under sized internals that made clunking noises, also the cassette rotates slightly on some compressions, and you get a loud clunk/clung from the freehub spinning a few degrees then stopping suddenly.
Do a run with no chain and mech ziptied so it doesn't move, you can eliminate chainslap then, I made my own foam chain slap guard and it made it way quieter.

I don’t think it’s the shock so much but I think it could be the fact that specialized annoyingly speced my bike with a shitty 10 speed gx type 2.1 made to fit a 7 speed cassette and shifter I think it could be that which is leading to my problems I was going to upgrade to the more premium 7 speed xo1 group set

Posted: Nov 9, 2020 at 12:46 Quote
Yup i remember the clunk from the suspension compressing ! and you feel it in the cranks (from the cassette) and hear it.

Are you getting the clunk sound just from riding around the car park.. or does it only happen when riding hard or jumping ?

It's possible the derailleur cage is making the sound and/or the b-limit screw isn't pushing the cage away from the chainstay far enough (Put into the smallest sprocket and look to see if your chain/derailluer cage is touching the chainstay).

Posted: Nov 9, 2020 at 13:13 Quote
Roryryan222 wrote:
bigburd wrote:
There was a batch of Ohlins TTX that had under sized internals that made clunking noises, also the cassette rotates slightly on some compressions, and you get a loud clunk/clung from the freehub spinning a few degrees then stopping suddenly.
Do a run with no chain and mech ziptied so it doesn't move, you can eliminate chainslap then, I made my own foam chain slap guard and it made it way quieter.

I don’t think it’s the shock so much but I think it could be the fact that specialized annoyingly speced my bike with a shitty 10 speed gx type 2.1 made to fit a 7 speed cassette and shifter I think it could be that which is leading to my problems I was going to upgrade to the more premium 7 speed xo1 group set
Just realised thats you Rory, head OK from your crash ? That needs to be on FridayFails man ahah. It's Leon BTW.

Posted: Nov 9, 2020 at 23:58 Quote
CarolineHix wrote:
It's possible the derailleur cage is making the sound and/or the b-limit screw isn't pushing the cage away from the chainstay far enough (Put into the smallest sprocket and look to see if your chain/derailluer cage is touching the chainstay).

That should be it. That was pretty annoying on my Demo.

Posted: Nov 10, 2020 at 2:40 Quote
bigburd wrote:
Roryryan222 wrote:
bigburd wrote:
There was a batch of Ohlins TTX that had under sized internals that made clunking noises, also the cassette rotates slightly on some compressions, and you get a loud clunk/clung from the freehub spinning a few degrees then stopping suddenly.
Do a run with no chain and mech ziptied so it doesn't move, you can eliminate chainslap then, I made my own foam chain slap guard and it made it way quieter.

I don’t think it’s the shock so much but I think it could be the fact that specialized annoyingly speced my bike with a shitty 10 speed gx type 2.1 made to fit a 7 speed cassette and shifter I think it could be that which is leading to my problems I was going to upgrade to the more premium 7 speed xo1 group set
Just realised thats you Rory, head OK from your crash ? That needs to be on FridayFails man ahah. It's Leon BTW.

Oh shit!! Hey Leon haha yeah taken a few days off work. Off the bike for a month due to the concussion but apart from that all good. Cheers man

Posted: Nov 10, 2020 at 2:42 Quote
CarolineHix wrote:
Yup i remember the clunk from the suspension compressing ! and you feel it in the cranks (from the cassette) and hear it.

Are you getting the clunk sound just from riding around the car park.. or does it only happen when riding hard or jumping ?

It's possible the derailleur cage is making the sound and/or the b-limit screw isn't pushing the cage away from the chainstay far enough (Put into the smallest sprocket and look to see if your chain/derailluer cage is touching the chainstay).

Yeah the cafe hits the chain stay! I think it’s because it’s a converted 10 speed mech not sure why specialized specced it like that. Will get a proper xo DH 7 speed set up sorted soon to try sort the issue

Posted: Nov 10, 2020 at 18:24 Quote
dh-corn wrote:
wrenchman117 wrote:
Hey guys,following the mullet posts,I have a Question:Could you do a mullet set-up on the earlier demo frames? 2017 model. is it possible? What to do? Just install a 29er' front fork and a 29 wheel? or is it just pertained to the new geometry frame?

You could. It will change the geo a bit but I don´t believe it make it that worse. Thinking about the same, maybe with a adjust headset or offset bushing.
Thanks for the insight! I would like to know if anyone has done this.!? Let me know. Also,unless I have 1500.00 dollars for a 29er" fork,500.00 for a front wheel,and accessories,i think i will stay with 27.5

Posted: Nov 12, 2020 at 1:33 Quote
wrenchman117 wrote:
dh-corn wrote:
wrenchman117 wrote:
Hey guys,following the mullet posts,I have a Question:Could you do a mullet set-up on the earlier demo frames? 2017 model. is it possible? What to do? Just install a 29er' front fork and a 29 wheel? or is it just pertained to the new geometry frame?

You could. It will change the geo a bit but I don´t believe it make it that worse. Thinking about the same, maybe with a adjust headset or offset bushing.
Thanks for the insight! I would like to know if anyone has done this.!? Let me know. Also,unless I have 1500.00 dollars for a 29er" fork,500.00 for a front wheel,and accessories,i think i will stay with 27.5

A few pages back is an experience report but I don´t know the user. He used a Fox 49 in a 2017 Demo if I remember correct.

It depends if you want to buy a new fork anyway you could go with 29" otherwise stay with your set up.

Posted: Dec 6, 2020 at 11:53 Quote
Beer Because you guys are knowledgeable

I've got the debonair boxxer fork. And im curious about 2 thing's.

1.I noticed that there is a bit more resistance compared to the coil version (friction) ? is this normal ? (brand new fork so its not worn or anything) is it because it has the dust seals AND internal seals ?

2.I have also seen a few video's saying you should put a bit of air in and cycle the suspension and repeat until you reach your desired pressure.
Instead of just pumping it up to the same psi and THEN cycling the suspension. Does that make any difference at all ? (negative air and all that confusing stuff Very confused )

tup any info is appreciated.

Also, is it ok to deflate it completely and start over again ? (do you have do get rid of negative air somehow or does it do it when you deflate it. (Don't wanna be stuck with a fork that doesn't extend or compress properly because air is trapped or some stupid shi... lol

Posted: Dec 6, 2020 at 15:24 Quote
1. Yes it's common, more seals and dynamic friction to overcome. The boxxer air fork probably one of the most supple air forks in existence so shouldn't be an issue on the trail.

2. Deflate the fork with a shock pump always if possible. If you dump all the air quickly you risk the fork getting stuck down. Inflate the fork 20psi at a time, then cycle the fork past the negative dimple to balance the chamber. It's only 15-20mm of travel, do it slowly and you will hear an air transfer occur. It's not mandatory, but a good practice to get in. I find you need to do this on Fox forks more than RS.

You can release trapped negative air on a boxxer with a small zip tie down the fork seal. Make sure it is clean and has no sharp edges.

Posted: Dec 7, 2020 at 0:29 Quote
Beer Ah thank you very much.

When you do the 20psi at a time thing. Do you need to disconnect the shock pump each time ?

Posted: Dec 7, 2020 at 2:41 Quote
Nope. Just press down lightly. Although I’ve never found I’ve had to do it on a fork, only shocks. Don’t over think it too much. Just ride

Posted: Dec 7, 2020 at 6:44 Quote
Hi guys, maybe a stupid question, but how do you tighten the rear axle on a 2017 demo 8 carbon? Is it only held in place by the two bolts on the side that clamp the axle and hold the hanger? I am asking because the derailleur protector damages the frame when tightened.

Posted: Dec 7, 2020 at 9:52 Quote
Do up the Axle 1st, the the dropout, and yeah it does leave some marks as you are effectively forcing the back of the drop out under the axle when you tighten it.
what I do is tighten the drop out bolts very lightly so it's just touching and about half a turn from tight, then do up the Axle bolt, then snug up the last half turn on the drop out, this way you are doing a tinny bit less marking of the frame.

Posted: Dec 7, 2020 at 16:19 Quote
Lots of new demos on sale over at spesh right now
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/demo-race-29-frame/p/170590?color=262664-170590&searchText=74519-0002


 


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