Specialized demo owners club

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Specialized demo owners club
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Posted: Jun 21, 2019 at 17:33 Quote
Brasher wrote:
mitchman117 wrote:
anyone running a renthal fatbar? whats the difference between riding with a 35mm clamp and a 31.8mm clamp? I know it is bigger.but what is the pro and con of them? is it bigger for burly DH? and smaller for more free ride?

35 rides the tiniest bit harsher, in theory should hold up to a crash better.

Loic Bruni rides 31.8 bars so if it’s good enough for him it’s good enough for the rest of us mortals.
didn't know bruni rode a smaller bar. thanks for that info.! just curious on what rides better with the boxer forks.

Posted: Jun 21, 2019 at 17:46 Quote
mitchman117 wrote:
Brasher wrote:
bigburd wrote:
Specialized are sending me a 2019 replacement frame and shock ! YEEAAHHHHHH

And a question for people that have ridden both the old linkage and the new progressive linkage, did you feel the need to change springs when going to the progressive link ?

Nice outcome! To their credit specialized warranty is excellent!

I went from 550 to 500lb for what it’s worth but I wouldn’t stress to much about it.

For me the progressive link allowed me to run a softer spring for more small bump compliance but retain the bottom out resistance of the heavier spring if you get what I mean. I valued the small bump compliance more.
was that spring rate for a Ohlin's? just curious.

Yep. I’ve tried dvo, fox x2 Air, Fox DHX2, rockshox vivid and cane creek double barrel. After all the swapping and testing, the ohlins to me is the best of them and easiest to setup for different tracks.

I’d love to try the ohlins fork but I haven’t won the lotto yet! The fox 40’s are very good.

Posted: Jun 22, 2019 at 2:14 Quote
I sent in pics and also sent my frame to nearest specialized concept store.

Posted: Jun 24, 2019 at 12:35 Quote
I know its in this thread somewhere, anyone know what headset these bikes take? Mine started making noise at killington this past weekend.

Im on a 2016 Alloy

Posted: Jun 24, 2019 at 13:55 Quote
If it's the same as the 2017 alloy then I'm pretty sure you just need these: https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/cane-creek-cartridge-bearings-s6-s8-zs6-is6/rp-prod11267

The Cane Creek bag I pulled my bearings out of says:

.HSS2031(or .HSS2034 maybe, I can't read the last number) BEAR.SS 1 1/8 S6 ZS6 IS6 2/BAG

Posted: Jun 26, 2019 at 8:14 Quote
Smile Sorry if this is a stupid question.. but does anyone know what the point of the frame spacer is ?

The bearings press into the ridges you see, Not the spacer. It's only as wide as that red line.
I understand you need it on frames that are completely hollow. but theres a place for the bearings to sit against in these frames.

Posted: Jun 26, 2019 at 8:59 Quote
On the diagram it looks like that spacer is smaller circumference than the bearing recess/lip ?

Posted: Jun 26, 2019 at 10:15 Quote
That's the confusing part.. like what is it actually doing ?. I think it lines up with the inner race on the bearing but its not like the bearing need's it for alignment.. lol

Posted: Jun 26, 2019 at 10:33 Quote
CarolineHix wrote:
That's the confusing part.. like what is it actually doing ?. I think it lines up with the inner race on the bearing but its not like the bearing need's it for alignment.. lol

It's so you can't over load the bearings from the side when tightening I'd guess, probably gotta be quite precise with spacing and alignment to make sure you don't ruin any bearings when doing it all back up.

And your one looks quite chewed up in that pic you posted, I'd be inclined to replace that in case it makes a mess of your bearing shields or some thing.

Posted: Jun 26, 2019 at 11:55 Quote
Guess it didnt do its job, thats why its taken apart in the first place lol xD
Gonna sand it down (smooth it out a bit) and install again with plenty of grease. tup

Posted: Jun 27, 2019 at 2:27 Quote
Both sides are finally out tup soaked it in wd40 overnight. couple of taps this morning and it flew out Eek
Gonna clean everything up as suggested and make it nice and slippery then gotta attempt squishing the new one in lol

Posted: Jun 28, 2019 at 5:37 Quote
Smile Method used was to use the old bearing outer race. press it all together. Then lightly tap it all the way around so it went in evenly whilst tightening the nut, keeping the whole setup together (Otherwise you gotta re-align everything again.. no big deal but it can be fiddly). Once the bearings are level with the frame. you can then either keep going or remove the press and tap the rest in using the old outer race and just line it up with the ridge inside.

Then proceed to keep tapping it in so it's flat against the spacer thing (if you move the inner race it should move the spacer with it). The most akward part is trying to line up your pivot arm, outer spacers, inner race with the frame. It basically has to be perfectly aligned Eek .

Thank's for all the help everyone !! Im actually really happy now it's done Smile

Posted: Jun 30, 2019 at 18:16 Quote
Big Grin glade everything is working out for Carolinehix

Posted: Jun 30, 2019 at 21:23 Quote
For sale if anyones interested

Posted: Jun 30, 2019 at 22:06 Quote
Ok lads, having a bit of a problem here.
I have a 2016 Sworks Demo, I cant seem to get the rear axle tight enough. when i get the clamp bolts set and the axle in, there’s still play coming from the hub. Yes, i have checked the hub, and it’s tight as can be and in good adjustment. I lost my “derailleur protector”, is that what i need to get rid of this play? It’s almost like it needs that to compress the rear end so i can tighten the clamp bolts on the hanger to hold the rear axle from coming out. Anyone else have this problem?

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