Specialized demo owners club

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Specialized demo owners club
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Posted: Jul 22, 2019 at 13:29 Quote
bigburd wrote:
patch92 wrote:
bigburd wrote:


I would swap to a normal pin/bush system straight away, I you leave it knocking for too long you end up damaging the eyelet.
I order the lower bush kit and just put it in the upper.
That rose bearing lasts a few weeks of good riding at best I found, sick to death or replacing them and I can't feel any difference, bike does not seem stiffer or less compliant that I can notice.

Could you link the bushing you are using? Mine needs replaced and I can’t seem to find it

https://j-techsuspension.co.uk/collections/mount-kits-and-bushings


The Ohlins 14/16 bushing and the Ohlins TTX mounting kit Bushing type if you wanna swap out the Rose bearing, worth doing in my opinion.

Thanks dude

Posted: Jul 23, 2019 at 17:46 Quote
what is the size of the rear hub nut on a stock demo 8 hub? I know the main nut is a 19mm.is the lock nut on top of the main also a 19mm or a 20mm? sorry,bike is not with me.

Posted: Jul 26, 2019 at 6:50 Quote
Thanks for the information. Managed to get a progressive link and it uses its own hardware at the bottom shock mount. So I can reuse that hardware in place of the rose bearing once I buy a du bush. Excited to try the new link.


bigburd wrote:
rocko1982 wrote:
What’s the forums general opinion on the rose bearing at the front shock mount? Keep it and replace like for like when needed or go with a more standard low friction bushing and mount?

Thanks

I would swap to a normal pin/bush system straight away, I you leave it knocking for too long you end up damaging the eyelet.
I order the lower bush kit and just put it in the upper.
That rose bearing lasts a few weeks of good riding at best I found, sick to death or replacing them and I can't feel any difference, bike does not seem stiffer or less compliant that I can notice.

Posted: Jul 26, 2019 at 9:48 Quote
rocko1982 wrote:
Thanks for the information. Managed to get a progressive link and it uses its own hardware at the bottom shock mount. So I can reuse that hardware in place of the rose bearing once I buy a du bush. Excited to try the new link.


bigburd wrote:
rocko1982 wrote:
What’s the forums general opinion on the rose bearing at the front shock mount? Keep it and replace like for like when needed or go with a more standard low friction bushing and mount?

Thanks

I would swap to a normal pin/bush system straight away, I you leave it knocking for too long you end up damaging the eyelet.
I order the lower bush kit and just put it in the upper.
That rose bearing lasts a few weeks of good riding at best I found, sick to death or replacing them and I can't feel any difference, bike does not seem stiffer or less compliant that I can notice.

Oh nice man !

I've gotta treat my self to this link, let us know how you get on with it.

Posted: Aug 4, 2019 at 4:57 Quote
Eek Managed to break a toof off somehow. Is it ok to replace that 25toof sprocket with my spare 28 ? Will it shift ok ?

Or do i need to get a whole replacement cassette ?

Assuming i can get the lockring off Jail (waiting for cassette tool to arrive)


Posted: Aug 4, 2019 at 6:24 Quote
CarolineHix wrote:
Eek Managed to break a toof off somehow. Is it ok to replace that 25toof sprocket with my spare 28 ? Will it shift ok ?

Or do i need to get a whole replacement cassette ?

Assuming i can get the lockring off Jail (waiting for cassette tool to arrive)


I would think the 28T will be fine, the mech will have range for that, and shifting will be fine, look at the gap on the Enduro bikes, it's like 30T-48T xD

Posted: Aug 4, 2019 at 6:48 Quote
CarolineHix wrote:
Eek Managed to break a toof off somehow. Is it ok to replace that 25toof sprocket with my spare 28 ? Will it shift ok ?

Or do i need to get a whole replacement cassette ?

Assuming i can get the lockring off Jail (waiting for cassette tool to arrive)


Yeah you’d be fine. Just check the chain length on bottom out while in that gear. Take the shock out and cycle it all the way down, make sure the mech isn’t over stretched... other than that, I don’t think there will be an issue. Might be a little roughy jumping up to that gear but I doubt it.

Posted: Aug 4, 2019 at 7:34 Quote
Thanks a lot guys, will let you know if it works tup

Posted: Aug 7, 2019 at 10:35 Quote
Lockring is stuck. I used 2 chain whips and a hammer to try and free it. All it does is turn slightly with the smallest sprocket. Jail any suggestions on how to loosen it ?

Posted: Aug 7, 2019 at 11:12 Quote
CarolineHix wrote:
Lockring is stuck. I used 2 chain whips and a hammer to try and free it. All it does is turn slightly with the smallest sprocket. Jail any suggestions on how to loosen it ?

If you’ve gotten X0 cranks off this bike, you should have the tools to get a cassette off. I had to disassemble the bike, put the chainstay and crank arm in a vice, and use a long breaker bar to manage to loosen them.

Clamp whatever the most stable thing to clamp is, and use the most leverage available on the other. You can also google general tips for loosing a stuck bolt like spraying wd40 or something on it to try to lubricate whatever the sticking point is.

Posted: Aug 7, 2019 at 18:59 Quote
Hey guys! I don't have a picture to reference, but looking to find a parts illustration for the headset to steerer tube bolt and wing clamp. The bolt on top of the head that threads into the wing clamp that attaches to the steerer tube. I am having a hard time trying to find online.anyone know any demo 8 parts illustrations? thanks!

Posted: Aug 7, 2019 at 19:46 Quote
mitchman117 wrote:
Hey guys! I don't have a picture to reference, but looking to find a parts illustration for the headset to steerer tube bolt and wing clamp. The bolt on top of the head that threads into the wing clamp that attaches to the steerer tube. I am having a hard time trying to find online.anyone know any demo 8 parts illustrations? thanks!

Don’t have illustration. But If you have it completely apart...

- lower headset bearing #1 slide over steerer, bevel up
- slide steerer with beveled up bearing through frame
- headset bearing #2 bevel down over steerer into headset cup
- gold split shim over steerer onto headset bearing #2
- dust seal plate over steerer
- spacers (depending how many you use
- top crown
- spacers (if you put some on top)
- stem
- bolt to tighten it all down

Posted: Aug 8, 2019 at 12:41 Quote
Hello all, I have 2016 demo carbon and I'm getting a lot of play in the downtube where the rear shock bolts to the frame. It's the ohlins shock. I also noticed it when I lift up on my seat, there seems to be some play as well. Anyone know the part numbers to fix this?

Posted: Aug 8, 2019 at 13:17 Quote
Sounds like you have worn out the rose bearing, you can replace it with another but they don't last long, you are better off ordering the lower lower bushing/mount kit and mounting it in the top, it's quite common with the demo for this rose bearing to wear out quickly and quite a lot of people in this thread have done the same.

https://j-techsuspension.co.uk/collections/mount-kits-and-bushings

The parts you need are all here, the ohlins ball joint, you will need to replace the bush too if you can feel knocking, but I would suggest getting the 'ohlins 14/16 bushing ' and the OHLINS TTX 22 M Mounting kit Bushing type.

It will save you replacing the rose bearing several times a year and makes no difference that I can notice to performance of shock, also if you leave it knocking for too long you can actually wear out the shock eyelet, happened to me !

Posted: Aug 8, 2019 at 13:36 Quote
thecheyner wrote:
Hello all, I have 2016 demo carbon and I'm getting a lot of play in the downtube where the rear shock bolts to the frame. It's the ohlins shock. I also noticed it when I lift up on my seat, there seems to be some play as well. Anyone know the part numbers to fix this?

Exactly what big bird said. I ordered both a new rose busing a bushing sleve to make it a rigid system after this new rose bushing dies in a few weeks. Lol. Hopefully that dealer is better than ohlins USA... terribly painful to get new stuff through them.


 
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