Specialized demo owners club

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Specialized demo owners club
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Posted: Nov 23, 2019 at 9:09 Quote
I wish mine was quieter when hitting big G-outs,as in drive chain noises, rear triangle bearings don't last well to well, other than that I'm very happy with mine, do some times wish the XL was 20mm longer reach though, I'm 6'3" and feel at the limit of the XL, especially when I try an XL from YT which feels so much more roomy for me.

Posted: Nov 23, 2019 at 9:30 Quote
I'm not a fan of the internal cable routing either. My shifter housing broke at the headtube entrance. I also prefer when the brake line is externally routed. I cracked a lever body and I would have preferred to swap my rear brake between my enduro and DH instead of taking the enduro bike out of commission to internally route the demo.

The Specialized rear hub used a C-Clip that broke within 6 months just like every other hub I've ever owned that had a C-Clip. I noticed most people on this forum went to a Hope Pro 4.

The Ohlins shock comes sprung too light in my opinion too, and I really struggled to get a heavier spring for it. I'd like to see an XL/S4 spec'd for a heavier person.

It feels like, to me, that something about the suspension design makes it tougher to keep the feet on the pedals if you're a flat-pedal rider. I've gotten used to it now, but I can't remember accidentally floating a foot off my pedal on another bike. Every time that I've done it on my Demo is ingrained in my memory because it's horrifying or did result in a crash for me.

Posted: Nov 23, 2019 at 17:44 Quote
The frames are made from a material softer than cheese.

Not progressive enough. Even with the link.

Anti squat could be higher.

Wheelbase could be a bit longer.

135mm rear hub spacing is just stupid. Hit a berm with speed and you can feel the wheel flexing/rotors rubbing.

The demo29 addressed all these quibbles.

Posted: Nov 24, 2019 at 7:59 Quote
Oh and the rose bearing that lasts 3-4 weekends, that sucks.

Posted: Nov 24, 2019 at 10:55 Quote
bigburd wrote:
Oh and the rose bearing that lasts 3-4 weekends, that sucks.

This. But I got rid of that trash once I upgraded to a dhx2

Posted: Dec 2, 2019 at 9:11 Quote
Eek Excuse me. Has anyone have a preload adjuster get stuck ? Can't seem to turn it either direction. There is tiny bit of play in the crank's.

There doesn't seem to be a screw that you need to undo first :/

Posted: Dec 2, 2019 at 10:03 Quote
Tried undoing it a bit 1st then tightening ? Or is it stuck both ways ?

When I adjusted mine it took a fair bit of force,I had two huge dents in my fingers from pressing so hard, ended up tapping it round with a screw driver and hammer taps to free it up, just make sure you don't slip and hit your frame.

Posted: Dec 2, 2019 at 10:38 Quote
Ah ok. They can just be really tight ?
At first i was looking for a small screw to undo but it seem's they become the bitch huh Eek

Thank's a lot. Will try brute force method tomorrow. Beer

To clarify.. they don't have a screw right ? they just tighten with friction?
There seems to be another model that looks almost identical.

Gonna check for one anyway (bleddy thing is covered in dirt).

Posted: Dec 2, 2019 at 10:45 Quote
My one does not have that slot and screw, if yours does I would undo that 1st, preload the bearing, then lock it with that little screw.

Starting wonder if mine does now though, it's usually covered in crap down there like you say.

Nah mine is one piece with no screw to lock it.

Posted: Dec 3, 2019 at 14:34 Quote
mikebeeee wrote:
The guy I messaged at Specialized tech support is telling me I have a progressive link. I've asked "Why doesn't it look like any other progressive link I've seen in photos (not like the one available as a part on the website, not like the one in pics of Finn or Loic's older 27.5 bikes)?"

The progressive links I've seen have the trunion mount, mine mounts directly.

They also say the progressive link available as an aftermarket part only fits the 2014-17 Demos.

I don't think any of that is correct, and it's pretty frustrating. I think he's wrong that I have a progressive link, and I think he's wrong that the link they sell will only fit Demos through 2017. But to prove the 2014-17 link would fit my bike I'd have to buy one and hope for the best, which sucks.

To the other comments, we also have several springs and have tested them to get the lightest one that won't bottom out. The rebound is set ok and we've played with the compression. The bike is fine as is, we're just trying to decide if it could ride better with the progressive link.



hello. I know the answer to this question) I also sent letters to Specialized, the answer was the same. Link progression goes for carbon frames. It is not suitable for aluminum frames. Aluminum frames come with standard links from 2016-2020. This is due to the fact that when installed on an aluminum frame, on shock absorbers, the rebound regulator touches the progression link. on shock absorbers ohlins, Rock Shox where you can remove the rebound control, there will be no problems. For carbon frames, the front mount of the shock absorber has a higher point, on aluminum, the shock absorber is mounted lower in the front mounting, this is due to the bent lower tube of the aluminum version. I have a 2017 frame aluminum version with Öhlins shock and everything is installed, without a rebound control.

Posted: Dec 4, 2019 at 10:08 Quote
Beer The myth is resolved.
Being serious tho, that makes a lot of sense as there would be a more movement in the shock.

If you changed the shock you could get a progressive link for the alloy model tho ?

Just the thought of snapping off the rebound adjustment knob when bottoming out on the first ride would be horrific Eek

Posted: 1 days ago Quote
Eek Need some advice. I have been running the default fork spring (Medium strength ?) for about a year now, i typically only use about 3/4 of the travel (With an occasional bottom out of course) with no compression on at all.

Im looking for maybe the softer or softest spring to replace it with. (silver/yellow ?)

Is it better to go with the softest spring you can get and then crank up the compression or just go for the next spring down.


Posted: 1 days ago Quote
CarolineHix wrote:
Eek Need some advice. I have been running the default fork spring (Medium strength ?) for about a year now, i typically only use about 3/4 of the travel (With an occasional bottom out of course) with no compression on at all.

Im looking for maybe the softer or softest spring to replace it with. (silver/yellow ?)

Is it better to go with the softest spring you can get and then crank up the compression or just go for the next spring down.


If you’re already bottoming out on rare occasion with a medium, I would just go one down. It should be soft enough to let you dial in some compression.

Posted: 1 days ago Quote
But just because you’re not using all the travel doesn’t mean you need to drop a spring weight. You may not be riding hard enough to use all of the travel. You want to do it more from feel and sag. If you have 10-20% sag then your fork doesn’t need a softer spring. If you end up putting soft springs in to use all the travel you may end up with a mushy fork with no control or feeling

Posted: 1 days ago Quote
I agree with above to go off your sag measurement. Your damper probably is designed to work with the appropriate spring weight. If you’re not getting full travel at 20% sag, you may want to start by backing off compression damping before buying a new spring.


 
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