Specialized demo owners club

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Specialized demo owners club
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Posted: Feb 2, 2020 at 12:28 Quote
I am 5’6 what size frame will you recommend me ? Maybe L?

Posted: Feb 2, 2020 at 15:48 Quote
Hi guys, I have a question about the new progressive link. I have just bought one and am wondering if I need to order new mounting hardware for the bottom eyelet. The new 90deg mounting angle looks to be a narrower width than the stock previosu link's hardware size but it might just be the angle of the photo.
If anyone has some insight, I'd be keen to know so I could order it now for when the link turns up.
Cheers
Tom

Posted: Feb 3, 2020 at 5:59 Quote
The mounting hardware comes with it. ohlins

Posted: Feb 3, 2020 at 6:02 Quote
Hi there,

can somebody give me a short info how to get rid of the bottom bracket shell? I understand the principle, but I can't get enough power transmitted because the outer ring always slips off when I turn it.

Cheers!

Posted: Feb 3, 2020 at 6:26 Quote
bigquotesI am 5’6 what size frame will you recommend me ? Maybe L?
M frame for you, otherwise you won't reach the handlebars.

Posted: Feb 3, 2020 at 6:28 Quote
CarolineHix wrote:
Both sides are finally out tup soaked it in wd40 overnight. couple of taps this morning and it flew out Eek
photo
Gonna clean everything up as suggested and make it nice and slippery then gotta attempt squishing the new one in lol
photo

@CarolineHix:

How did you get em out?

Posted: Feb 3, 2020 at 6:32 Quote
dh-corn: try holding the tool in place on the lock ring with a clamp or "bearing press." A trigger clamp with rubber coatings on the jaw, NOT clamped super tight can work to let you break the lock ring loose. I made a DIY bearing press for the main pivots and I use that to hold the lock ring tool in place. I found two huge washers, put them on a bolt and use that to hold the lock ring tool in place.

Shimanosaint0097: I installed a progressive link a few weeks ago on an alloy 2019 and had the same situation, because we have the Fox shock that came with the bike (not an Ohlins). The original hardware installed with the Fox definitely does not work with the new link, and neither do the silver reducers that come with the link. You need a narrower bushing, basically one that's the same width as the lower shock eyelet. I wish I could give you a part number or name, but what we did was go to our LBS and look through the Fox parts box. We found a teflon (?) coated bushing (essentially a sleeve) that's the same width as the lower shock eyelet with an inner diameter that matches the outer diameter of the reducers that come with the link. The reducers slid into the sleeve, and then the width was correct for the link mounting gap. Hope that makes sense - basically the eyelet paired with the reducers they send gives you the correct width for the eyelet in the new link, but you need to address the diameter of the eyelet hole with a bushing.

Posted: Feb 3, 2020 at 6:38 Quote
Oh ? thought you had a different frame ? carbon ?

If you mean't how did i remove the bearing's. Then use a small screwdriver.

Tap out the inner race first (You can move the inner spacer out of the way just enough to do this) Also after doing this twice now, i find that the inner race isn't strong enough for a bearing press to be used anyway. It pretty much alway's fall's out seperately.

Then once one side has the inner race out you can take out the inner spacer

Then you can JUST about tap the outer race of the bearing until it pops out of the frame.

If you want to protect your baby then maybe attach like some inner tube or something soft to the screwdriver. and just keep tapping around different parts of the bearing and eventually it will come out.

Edit Mike's method sounds great to. Smile It doesn't matter how long it take's ya. Its worth taken a little extra time with soft tool's to get em out.

Dead Horse Personally tho. i used a hammer until it obey'd

Posted: Feb 3, 2020 at 6:47 Quote
First: Thanks!

But yes, I have the carbon frame. Anyone used the same method as per description above for the bearings for the carbon frame?

Posted: Feb 3, 2020 at 6:56 Quote
To be honest there shouldn't be anything different. As you should still have an aluminium insert on the carbon frame for the BB area.

Maybe brace the frame somehow as you do it.

After all, even if you use some kind of bearing press that's still force going on between the shell and the bearing when extracting or installing. There's no getting around that.

Unless you wanna dremel it out in which case there's no smacking or pulling action going on. (Method i would personally use with carbon) Beer

Posted: Feb 3, 2020 at 8:03 Quote
To be clear, I was only describing how to get the lock ring off so you could access the bearings. Once that's off and you get access to the bearings, then just tap them out as others have described. I used a punch so it's flat instead of like a scredriver, but same idea.

Getting the splined (toothed?) lock ring off can be a challenge if it's tight since it's hard to get good leverage on the removal tool without something holding it in place, hence the suggestion of a clamp or bearing press/washers.

Posted: Feb 3, 2020 at 21:39 Quote
I did a bottom bracket service in which I replaced the two main pivot bearings by just very patiently tapping them out with a hammer and punch. Incrementally tap out the bearing at different points around it, two taps at a time and it pops out neatly. You can then hand press the new ones in and finish them off using a socket as a punch.
Just do it incrementally and you wont hurt anything

Posted: Feb 4, 2020 at 5:22 Quote
Shimanosaint0097 wrote:
I did a bottom bracket service in which I replaced the two main pivot bearings by just very patiently tapping them out with a hammer and punch. Incrementally tap out the bearing at different points around it, two taps at a time and it pops out neatly. You can then hand press the new ones in and finish them off using a socket as a punch.
Just do it incrementally and you wont hurt anything

Thanks!

Is it normal that the new bearings in the progressive link wont rotate by finger power only?

Does anyone here have all the required bearing sizes and quantities of the Demo carbon 2015-2018?

Or this for the Carbon Demo 2016? https://cdn.bike24.net/i/p/4/2/184224_00_d.jpg

Posted: Feb 4, 2020 at 6:39 Quote
Think that's for the 2015 and earlier model's only.
We have yet to find a schematic for 2016-2019 bearing's Eek

Posted: Feb 4, 2020 at 7:21 Quote
CarolineHix wrote:
Think that's for the 2015 and earlier model's only.
We have yet to find a schematic for 2016-2019 bearing's Eek

Or the 2015 S-Works which was the first asymetric one but I think here´s the problem. In 2015 they sold both like in 2020.


 


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