Hi guys, I have a question about the new progressive link. I have just bought one and am wondering if I need to order new mounting hardware for the bottom eyelet. The new 90deg mounting angle looks to be a narrower width than the stock previosu link's hardware size but it might just be the angle of the photo. If anyone has some insight, I'd be keen to know so I could order it now for when the link turns up. Cheers Tom
can somebody give me a short info how to get rid of the bottom bracket shell? I understand the principle, but I can't get enough power transmitted because the outer ring always slips off when I turn it.
dh-corn: try holding the tool in place on the lock ring with a clamp or "bearing press." A trigger clamp with rubber coatings on the jaw, NOT clamped super tight can work to let you break the lock ring loose. I made a DIY bearing press for the main pivots and I use that to hold the lock ring tool in place. I found two huge washers, put them on a bolt and use that to hold the lock ring tool in place.
Shimanosaint0097: I installed a progressive link a few weeks ago on an alloy 2019 and had the same situation, because we have the Fox shock that came with the bike (not an Ohlins). The original hardware installed with the Fox definitely does not work with the new link, and neither do the silver reducers that come with the link. You need a narrower bushing, basically one that's the same width as the lower shock eyelet. I wish I could give you a part number or name, but what we did was go to our LBS and look through the Fox parts box. We found a teflon (?) coated bushing (essentially a sleeve) that's the same width as the lower shock eyelet with an inner diameter that matches the outer diameter of the reducers that come with the link. The reducers slid into the sleeve, and then the width was correct for the link mounting gap. Hope that makes sense - basically the eyelet paired with the reducers they send gives you the correct width for the eyelet in the new link, but you need to address the diameter of the eyelet hole with a bushing.
If you mean't how did i remove the bearing's. Then use a small screwdriver.
Tap out the inner race first (You can move the inner spacer out of the way just enough to do this) Also after doing this twice now, i find that the inner race isn't strong enough for a bearing press to be used anyway. It pretty much alway's fall's out seperately.
Then once one side has the inner race out you can take out the inner spacer
Then you can JUST about tap the outer race of the bearing until it pops out of the frame.
If you want to protect your baby then maybe attach like some inner tube or something soft to the screwdriver. and just keep tapping around different parts of the bearing and eventually it will come out.
Edit Mike's method sounds great to. It doesn't matter how long it take's ya. Its worth taken a little extra time with soft tool's to get em out.
To be honest there shouldn't be anything different. As you should still have an aluminium insert on the carbon frame for the BB area.
Maybe brace the frame somehow as you do it.
After all, even if you use some kind of bearing press that's still force going on between the shell and the bearing when extracting or installing. There's no getting around that.
Unless you wanna dremel it out in which case there's no smacking or pulling action going on. (Method i would personally use with carbon)
To be clear, I was only describing how to get the lock ring off so you could access the bearings. Once that's off and you get access to the bearings, then just tap them out as others have described. I used a punch so it's flat instead of like a scredriver, but same idea.
Getting the splined (toothed?) lock ring off can be a challenge if it's tight since it's hard to get good leverage on the removal tool without something holding it in place, hence the suggestion of a clamp or bearing press/washers.
I did a bottom bracket service in which I replaced the two main pivot bearings by just very patiently tapping them out with a hammer and punch. Incrementally tap out the bearing at different points around it, two taps at a time and it pops out neatly. You can then hand press the new ones in and finish them off using a socket as a punch. Just do it incrementally and you wont hurt anything
I did a bottom bracket service in which I replaced the two main pivot bearings by just very patiently tapping them out with a hammer and punch. Incrementally tap out the bearing at different points around it, two taps at a time and it pops out neatly. You can then hand press the new ones in and finish them off using a socket as a punch. Just do it incrementally and you wont hurt anything
Thanks!
Is it normal that the new bearings in the progressive link wont rotate by finger power only?
Does anyone here have all the required bearing sizes and quantities of the Demo carbon 2015-2018?