Specialized demo owners club

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Specialized demo owners club
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Posted: Feb 9, 2020 at 12:18 Quote
dh-corn wrote:
Does anyone have the exact bushing dimensions including bearings for an Öhlints TTX for the Specialized Demo 8 Carbon 2015-2018? 22,2mm both sides correct? And the bearing size? Eye width is 12mm, outer diameter 16mm and inner diameter 14mm or? For a 8mm screw?
Yes to all.

Posted: Feb 10, 2020 at 0:18 Quote
bigburd wrote:
dh-corn wrote:
Does anyone have the exact bushing dimensions including bearings for an Öhlints TTX for the Specialized Demo 8 Carbon 2015-2018? 22,2mm both sides correct? And the bearing size? Eye width is 12mm, outer diameter 16mm and inner diameter 14mm or? For a 8mm screw?
Yes to all.

Perfect! New bearing and bushings orderd...getting rid of this spherical bushing.

Posted: Feb 10, 2020 at 10:56 Quote
dh-corn wrote:
bigburd wrote:
dh-corn wrote:
Does anyone have the exact bushing dimensions including bearings for an Öhlints TTX for the Specialized Demo 8 Carbon 2015-2018? 22,2mm both sides correct? And the bearing size? Eye width is 12mm, outer diameter 16mm and inner diameter 14mm or? For a 8mm screw?
Yes to all.

Perfect! New bearing and bushings orderd...getting rid of this spherical bushing.

Yeah it's worth doing,after replacing the bearing and hardwear 3 times I got really fed up and ignored the knocking for a while, big mistake!
The extra play caused wear on the right hand side of the actual shock eyelet meaning even a new bush kit would not fit right.
Soon after I found the crack on my frame so the new frame come with a new shock luckily Smile

Posted: Feb 11, 2020 at 0:21 Quote
Eek wtf... How did you fix your shock eyelet ? or did you have to buy a new one.

Ah..
bigquotesso the new frame come with a new shock luckily

Posted: Feb 13, 2020 at 13:42 Quote
dh-corn wrote:
Does anyone have the exact bushing dimensions including bearings for an Öhlints TTX for the Specialized Demo 8 Carbon 2015-2018? 22,2mm both sides correct? And the bearing size? Eye width is 12mm, outer diameter 16mm and inner diameter 14mm or? For a 8mm screw?
All those dimensions are correct. 16mm outer diameter for the eyelet, 14mm inner with an 8mm bolt. 22.2mm Hardware width. As for the bearing, it is a thing that you buy from specialized but I personally dont use it. It was designed for the previous model of the demo where there was a lot more flex in the rear end. That where all those photos of the broken cane creek shocks came from. The new demo having the link's mounts so close to the frame means that there is no room for any movement. The bearings just end up having play in them and are an unnecessary and over complicated component on the asymmetric demos. They were also not used on any of the specialized gravity racing bikes. IMO jus get rigid hardware top and bottom.

Posted: Feb 16, 2020 at 2:25 Quote
Can you tell me how much is the weight of alu 2018 frame?

Posted: Feb 17, 2020 at 23:49 Quote
Shimanosaint0097 wrote:
dh-corn wrote:
Does anyone have the exact bushing dimensions including bearings for an Öhlints TTX for the Specialized Demo 8 Carbon 2015-2018? 22,2mm both sides correct? And the bearing size? Eye width is 12mm, outer diameter 16mm and inner diameter 14mm or? For a 8mm screw?
All those dimensions are correct. 16mm outer diameter for the eyelet, 14mm inner with an 8mm bolt. 22.2mm Hardware width. As for the bearing, it is a thing that you buy from specialized but I personally dont use it. It was designed for the previous model of the demo where there was a lot more flex in the rear end. That where all those photos of the broken cane creek shocks came from. The new demo having the link's mounts so close to the frame means that there is no room for any movement. The bearings just end up having play in them and are an unnecessary and over complicated component on the asymmetric demos. They were also not used on any of the specialized gravity racing bikes. IMO jus get rigid hardware top and bottom.

Just got my Huber bushings...can´t wait to install them!

Posted: Feb 19, 2020 at 9:59 Quote
Slight subject change. but has anyone had a weird cailper moment ?

Basically i went out for a ride. Came back, washed the bike (i did have it upside down at one point which is not something i usually do), went for another ride. No problem.

I've been getting a squeek sound so i wanted to check the rear brake pad (recently bought that new tyre but didn't quite seat it correctly).

Took the pads out
Pushed the pistons back in
Put the pads back in and pulled the lever a few times..

But this time the pistons wern't coming out enough and the lever was just spongy. because the pads wern't contacting with the rotor.

Nothing's been changed, no leaks or anything like that. Has anyone had it before like if they had their bike leaning against a wall or something the pad's refuse to push out enough ? Very confused

What's strange is i then proceeded to do the whole process again but this time put my bike on level ground (the back wheel was in a ditch because i use it to prevent the wheel/bike from moving) And it's working perfectly again now. Eek wtf.

Very confused Is it time for a re-bleed ?? or was that a weird angle the brake cable hose was in that prevented it working ?? very bizzare

Posted: Feb 19, 2020 at 11:06 Quote
You usually have to pump the lever quite a lot to get the pistons to seat where you want them. A trick I do is pump them out without the wheels on the bike. (Make sure it’s right side up) until I can barely get the rotors in. Fit the wheels and then reposition the caliper so the pads don’t rub or are very lightly rubbing. This gives very little lever travel and a firm brake point.

This works better on Shimano brakes than sram and if you do it be very careful not to pump too much with your wheels off as your pistons will fall out

Posted: Feb 19, 2020 at 11:16 Quote
CarolineHix wrote:
Slight subject change. but has anyone had a weird cailper moment ?

Basically i went out for a ride. Came back, washed the bike (i did have it upside down at one point which is not something i usually do), went for another ride. No problem.

I've been getting a squeek sound so i wanted to check the rear brake pad (recently bought that new tyre but didn't quite seat it correctly).

Took the pads out
Pushed the pistons back in
Put the pads back in and pulled the lever a few times..

But this time the pistons wern't coming out enough and the lever was just spongy. because the pads wern't contacting with the rotor.

Nothing's been changed, no leaks or anything like that. Has anyone had it before like if they had their bike leaning against a wall or something the pad's refuse to push out enough ? Very confused

What's strange is i then proceeded to do the whole process again but this time put my bike on level ground (the back wheel was in a ditch because i use it to prevent the wheel/bike from moving) And it's working perfectly again now. Eek wtf.

Very confused Is it time for a re-bleed ?? or was that a weird angle the brake cable hose was in that prevented it working ?? very bizzare

I have done this! I left my bike upside down for about a week or 2 (not how I usually store it) and when I went to go ride the local mountain, the brakes were super spongy and I wasn't able to lock my rear wheel even with full power on a sandy surface and newish brake pads. I have the Sram Ultimates with all the adjustable parts so I played with it a little and I couldn't get it back to 100%. I ended up bleeding them when I got home and they were as good as new!

Posted: Feb 19, 2020 at 11:42 Quote
bigquotesYou usually have to pump the lever quite a lot to get the pistons to seat where you want them
That was the problem. must have pumped the lever like 30-40 times. but it wasn't pushing them out anymore. Yet it was fine before i decided to take the pads out and push the piston's back in. (I've changed pad's on the front and rear a couple of time's before and it's never done this)

At first i thought... Eek wait ?? is there a leak or something ??? but it couldn't be, because i was literally riding like 5 minutes before and no issue. (Note the squeek was because the pad is rubbing against the rotor at a certain part of the wheel rotation (New tyre not seated correctly so it throws the alignment out slightly. Not due to caliper allignment)

Im thinking maybe it was like phuley mentioned. But i went for a ride straight after washing it (Which was when it was upside down) ... Very confused

But it must have something to do with it ?? Very confused loss of pressure in the lever ? cable bend ?

I was about to re-bleed it again in the morning, but the moment i had the bike up straight. I pulled the lever a couple times and it sorted itself out.

Also thought maybe it was because 2 pistons on 1 side of the caliper were not coming out (sticky pistons). but that's not how they work, If a piston doesn't come out,, usually the others will (In fact they have to due to the laws of physics Rolleyes )

Will probably do what you both mentioned. re-bleed and check that they start to bite with minimal lever pull. At the moment even with reach adjustment at maximum it takes about 1/5th pull before it starts braking. Beer

Posted: Feb 20, 2020 at 12:51 Quote
Has anybody found an alternative to the hydraulic brake line holder that mounts under the upper shock mounting bolt? I hate this thing, it's a pain to get the bolt torqued to spec without it rotating. And when it rotates it can scratch the paint, since it rests against the frame.

I'm all for low-tech approaches, but this is like a piece of rack mounting hardware from an old Schwinn. I'd love to find a different way to attach the brake line.


Posted: Feb 20, 2020 at 13:22 Quote
Does your demo not have internal routing? I don't have that little guy on my rig

Posted: Feb 20, 2020 at 15:21 Quote
mikebeeee wrote:
Has anybody found an alternative to the hydraulic brake line holder that mounts under the upper shock mounting bolt? I hate this thing, it's a pain to get the bolt torqued to spec without it rotating. And when it rotates it can scratch the paint, since it rests against the frame.

I'm all for low-tech approaches, but this is like a piece of rack mounting hardware from an old Schwinn. I'd love to find a different way to attach the brake line.

There is no internal routing on the alloy frames, you can try these jagwire stick on guides:
https://jagwire.com/products/small-parts/stick-on-guides

They work pretty well and you can run the cable where ever you like.

Posted: Feb 20, 2020 at 23:50 Quote
mikebeeee wrote:
Has anybody found an alternative to the hydraulic brake line holder that mounts under the upper shock mounting bolt? I hate this thing, it's a pain to get the bolt torqued to spec without it rotating. And when it rotates it can scratch the paint, since it rests against the frame.

I'm all for low-tech approaches, but this is like a piece of rack mounting hardware from an old Schwinn. I'd love to find a different way to attach the brake line.


You´ll find something similar in the states as well

https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/rfr-stick-on-guide-4-pieces-824225


 
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