Crank alingment

PB Forum :: Dirt Jumping & Street
Crank alingment
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Posted: Mar 19, 2017 at 2:00 Quote
Hi guys.
Need some help please. I have a nookie shuffle frame mid bb. 73mm wide. Got the nookie cheeta cranks. I'm using no spacers and the thinnest dust covers but the spindle is still not flush with the crank arm on one side. It's out by 3mm Is this normal. On a bmx there is load of space and I use lots of spacers. What's the thinnest dust covers you can get!
Thanks guys

Posted: Mar 19, 2017 at 7:28 Quote
Its fine, if you're really concerned, split the difference between the 2 crank arms by loosening the bolt on the other end a little.. once you have the difference split, locktite the bolts nice and tight..

Posted: Mar 19, 2017 at 12:00 Quote
Thanks mate. I always thought both sides must be flush spindle to crank arm. Or is this just BMX.

Thanks for your reply
.

Posted: Mar 19, 2017 at 16:40 Quote
As long as you have more than half through the arm you should be good, if you're worried you can get longer spindles, not sire if profile is compatible, but they make a 5.75" and a 6.00" spindle (not sure in mm) you get the idea

Posted: Mar 20, 2017 at 1:55 Quote
Thanks for your help mate.

Posted: Mar 20, 2017 at 13:06 Quote
Aaronz25RS wrote:
As long as you have more than half through the arm you should be good, if you're worried you can get longer spindles, not sire if profile is compatible, but they make a 5.75" and a 6.00" spindle (not sure in mm) you get the idea

Exactly. I run the 6" Profile spindle with a 73mm bb shell.

On some frames, you need the 6" spindle to be able to space the crank arms far enough out to get clearance with the chainstays.

photo
photo

Look how much narrower a 24" BMX is. (An MTB hub has 135mm spacing; a bmx hub has 110 spacing).
photo

Posted: Mar 23, 2017 at 13:14 Quote
Thanks for the pics mate. IT all makes sense now.
Cheers

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