Setting up rockshox pike RC solo 150mm

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Setting up rockshox pike RC solo 150mm
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Posted: May 31, 2017 at 0:58 Quote
I need some help setting up my pike, when setting up sag should the compression damping be fully open, or set to a certain point i like (like the lowest I can get away without the front end diving?)
last few rides I have been opening it up fully when descending but after bottoming out a lot starting to realise that it should be set up properly.
so with riding rear i'm about 90kg, I have 2 tokens in and 75psi and depending on LSC settings i am getting 20% or 30% sag.
how should I set it up?

O+
Posted: May 31, 2017 at 1:03 Quote
Usually I'll make sure both compression and rebound are completely open before setting sag. After that is set you will work on static rebound and leave compression open. Once you've taken the bike out for a ride you can work on getting the rebound right, then move to getting compression set the way you want it to feel. If after doing that you are still bottoming out you should install another volume spacer.

Posted: Jun 1, 2017 at 2:36 Quote
what the comp and rebound are set to during static sag setting doesn't have any effect as dampers only control during suspension movement there not loaded.
your a simlar weight to me . id put another token in first as i like alot of progression plus means you can run a lower preasure and keep the small bump smoothness better. sram say 1 token is roughly equal to 5psi.
but i run 85psi and 3 tokens middle comp on my rc pike. gives me 25% static sag.
if on a dual air pike you have to run next to no static sag and way more preasure to keep them up. i have to run 4 tokens 105psi 2 clicks of max comp 5% sag to get the same support when riding as my regular pike.
also don't have to have 20-30% sag can run less if feels good its not set in stone as your attack postion and weight distribution isnt the same when your actully riding as when your sat on level ground doing a static sag setup.

Posted: Jun 1, 2017 at 11:58 Quote
The shorter the travel the more tokens you'll need if your not a lightweight. On a 130 Pike I was running 4 and 120 psi. Fitted a luftkappe and have dropped to 115 psi and two tokens but he with a bit less LSC as it seems to ride a bit higher in the stroke. Also much more sensitive off the top. Best mod thus far to a pike, ps this won't work for the 2018 pike as they already have the increased negative volume.

Posted: Jun 1, 2017 at 13:30 Quote
Ok thanks for the replies. I went out for another ride on Wednesday(settings again are 90kg, 2 tokens, 75psi, rebound 6 clicks from fastest) and played about with the compression damping whilst rinding along on the flat, found out at 5 clicks from fully open I can jam the brakes on and the front end doesn't dive ridiculously, so I rode down a few trails with it like that. no bottoming out the wiper sell had about 10mm to go and it seemed to soak up the bumps pretty well. didn't have a lot of time on the trails so i'm going to keep it like this for a while and get some more feedback before making more changes, one thing i;m bearing in mind is the forks have 6 hours ride time on them so I doubt are broken in yet!

one question, would adding more air to the fork do the same as 5 clicks of compression damping? if not, why not? just as someone has told me I should add air until it feels ok with wide open comp damping so I don't have to count out 5 clicks at the top of the trails I could just open it right up and descend.

Posted: Jun 1, 2017 at 13:56 Quote
I always set the static sag at 25% with no LSC and dial in LSC dependant on trail. Less for choppy. In fact I sometimes run in trail mode on a very smooth flow section

Posted: Feb 9, 2021 at 8:09 Quote
I have this exact same fork. A 2017. I have been fighting setup on this fork for some time. It is just harsh. My Fox float 32 actually feels way better. Anyway, The fork suggest I should be running 65 or so PSI. I have it at 40 and I am still getting this super stiff performance towards the bottom end of the travel. I do think my negative spring may be to high, but I am not sure how to sort this out. Anyway any feedback is appreciated.

Posted: Feb 9, 2021 at 8:17 Quote
Rmabus wrote:
I have this exact same fork. A 2017. I have been fighting setup on this fork for some time. It is just harsh. My Fox float 32 actually feels way better. Anyway, The fork suggest I should be running 65 or so PSI. I have it at 40 and I am still getting this super stiff performance towards the bottom end of the travel. I do think my negative spring may be to high, but I am not sure how to sort this out. Anyway any feedback is appreciated.

When is the last time you had the fork serviced? It can be a cause of degraded functioning.
You can also upgrade the airshaft to the new debonair, it is an easy and cheap operation (I think around $30).
So if the last service was a long time ago I would start with lower leg service and airshaft upgrade. If it does not improve the functioning, it might need a damper bleed.

Posted: Feb 9, 2021 at 8:27 Quote
Brodybro. I will dig into that. I think I might have actually put that debonair in it. I have to many bikes between my son, and I's road, cross, MTB race XC, Enduro so I am a little foggy one what was done to what.

This pike was purchased on a CO trip(on an Intense) a few years back and it honestly never felt that great from the get go. It has also been a long time since I have tweaked on RS products so I am also re-learning some. I will dig into it.

Posted: Feb 9, 2021 at 10:15 Quote
I had the Pike RC solo air 160mm, upgraded to Debonair for 2 years on my enduro and it worked very well honestly, the only stuff I have changed, I remember now, was the compression stack in order to have a little bit lighter compression and this doesn't cost anything to change.
I now have a Pike Ultimate on my trail bike and it might be a little bit better but not day and night, at least for my level.
I have also tried the Debonairs B2 and C1 and B2 felt plusher and sits a little bit more in the travel than the latest C1, which I prefer.
The good thing is that a lower leg service (and airshaft/debonair swap) is really fast and inexpensive to do so it might worth it !

O+ FL
Posted: Feb 9, 2021 at 14:44 Quote
I had a 2015 Pike Solo Air 160mm and I just upgraded to a Lyrik 160mm debonair Select+. Maybe my expectations were too high going into the change, but I didn't notice much difference. I did put a decent amount of effort setting up the old Pike though.

Rmabus, have you checked how many tokens are in the fork? If you are running a really low pressure to get the sag but then it is really harsh at the end of the travel, maybe there are too many tokens so it is ramping up really quick.

Alternatively, maybe the rebound damping is set too slow and you are packing down. I went through a spell with my Pike felt really really rough (so bad my eyes couldn't focus). Turned out either I counted from the wrong direction, did something stupid, or my kid was playing with the knob, but my damping was set way too slow for the pressure I was running. Opened it up and BOOM it felt like riding on air. After about 3 successive hits it was probably hanging out in its last inch of travel.
If you are running less pressure than recommended, the damping also needs to be less than recommended. With the trail head app, you can keep punching in lighter weight until you get the pressure you are currently running and it will give you a damping setting to try.

Posted: Feb 9, 2021 at 19:04 Quote
The token question is what started this journey. I realized I don’t have any in. I do think I was not careful in setting air pessure and started a fight with the negative chamber. I was more careful when I filled it but I noticed the negative chamber is pulling the fork down into the sag some. Hmmm

O+ FL
Posted: Feb 10, 2021 at 12:41 Quote
What do you weigh? I am about 185 kitted out and used to run with one token and 63 PSI and 12 clicks open of rebound. That was a real plush feel. I ran the pressure between 63 and 70 if I wanted a bit firmer. I tried taking the token out and it was a bit too firm feeling at the higher pressure. That was 160mm travel, so 150mm would be slightly more pressure.

Maybe get all the air out and work it up and down to make sure there is no pressure on the negative side, and burp the lowers. Then start again working through the travel every 20 lbs of air added or so. If that doesn't help, then next step is a service on the Charger damper probably.

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