Sram 2.1 clutch issues

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Sram 2.1 clutch issues
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Posted: Jul 2, 2017 at 13:41 Quote
I've noticed that recently my bike is a lot noisier than it used to be, and i'm pretty sure it's chainslap. The drivetrain has had a fair amount of use, getting on for 700 miles, and i've just fitted a new narrow wide chain ring and chain, frame bearings, shock hardware and bushings, but the noise persists!

It's quiet as a mouse under hard pedalling over smooth ground, but hitting the rough trails it sounds like a bag of spanners whether pedalling or not. There's no play in anything, everything has been torqued up and thread locked but i'm running out of ideas and how to fix it, and then today my friend has also noticed the same noise making an appearance on his bike with the same setup. Anyone else had similar on sram XO1 11 speed type 2.1 derailleur and found a cure?

Posted: Jul 3, 2017 at 6:20 Quote
Try to remove a link in the chain if you can to get a little more chain tension. But maybe it's just time for a new derailleur. The type 2.1 clutch is not adjustable.

Posted: Aug 16, 2017 at 13:51 Quote
Check to see if your derailleur clutch is providing tension, assuming its not you have two options.

1) Replace
2) Open it up and adjust the clutch tension (with the potential of completely destroying your derailleur)

If you're willing to risk your derailleur:

Using a seal pick, pull out the plastic plug in the middle of the clutch cap, there's a T55 Torx drive under there.

DO NOT TURN IT YET.

Locate the little metal pin on the left side of the clutch housing
Using a file or dremel, carefully shave away some plastic around the pin
Once you have a bit of the pin exposed, cut a notch in the pin so that you can grab it with pliers or drive it out with a small chisel. You may need to turn the T55 cap slightly, less than a millimeter, to loosen up the pin hole.

Once you have the pin out, use the T55 to unscrew the cap all the way out.
File down the burrs on the thread around the pin hole on the T55 cap, this will make sure the clutch housing doesn't get messed up when you reinstall it.

Take a picture of the orientation of the sprag clutch before removing it, so that you know which way it needs to be re-installed.

Make sure your derailleur cage is properly screwed into the sprag clutch. With the cap out, you'll have access to both sides of the bolt. I used a drop of blue loctite on the screw (cage side) and some carbon paste under the screw head on cage side (assuming you have a carbon cage). Be careful with the blue loctite, only put it on metal parts, it can attack some plastics, and i'm not sure what plastic is used for the derailleur body.


Reinstall the T55 cap, you can now tighten it more, which will add more clutch tension. Toss the pin, you don't need it.

Your Sram Type 2.1 derailleur is now adjustable.

Posted: Feb 25, 2018 at 12:33 Quote
ebrooker wrote:
Check to see if your derailleur clutch is providing tension, assuming its not you have two options.

1) Replace
2) Open it up and adjust the clutch tension (with the potential of completely destroying your derailleur)

If you're willing to risk your derailleur:

Using a seal pick, pull out the plastic plug in the middle of the clutch cap, there's a T55 Torx drive under there.

DO NOT TURN IT YET.

Locate the little metal pin on the left side of the clutch housing
Using a file or dremel, carefully shave away some plastic around the pin
Once you have a bit of the pin exposed, cut a notch in the pin so that you can grab it with pliers or drive it out with a small chisel. You may need to turn the T55 cap slightly, less than a millimeter, to loosen up the pin hole.

Once you have the pin out, use the T55 to unscrew the cap all the way out.
File down the burrs on the thread around the pin hole on the T55 cap, this will make sure the clutch housing doesn't get messed up when you reinstall it.

Take a picture of the orientation of the sprag clutch before removing it, so that you know which way it needs to be re-installed.

Make sure your derailleur cage is properly screwed into the sprag clutch. With the cap out, you'll have access to both sides of the bolt. I used a drop of blue loctite on the screw (cage side) and some carbon paste under the screw head on cage side (assuming you have a carbon cage). Be careful with the blue loctite, only put it on metal parts, it can attack some plastics, and i'm not sure what plastic is used for the derailleur body.


Reinstall the T55 cap, you can now tighten it more, which will add more clutch tension. Toss the pin, you don't need it.

Your Sram Type 2.1 derailleur is now adjustable.
Many thanks, this was the only guide I could find on the whole Internet.

My x01 was slapping bad and even got chain suck through the top of chainstay on harsh terrain. Put a gauge in carbon frame.

This diy hack vs £169 for new derailleur.... I owe you a beer mate ????

Posted: Nov 15, 2018 at 17:44 Quote
Hi, Ive just been doing this mod myself and i might have found an easier way to do it.

Once you've popped the cap on the big torx socket have a peek inside the socket where the it lines up with the pin. The pin actually pokes through the torx socket and you can knock it out from the inside with a skinny nail and a hammer. No dremeling or filling of the outside of the clutch housing required. (although i had done this before I discovered the easy way....ooops)

Happy clutch modding.

Posted: Nov 16, 2018 at 14:51 Quote
Tombawun wrote:
Hi, Ive just been doing this mod myself and i might have found an easier way to do it.

Once you've popped the cap on the big torx socket have a peek inside the socket where the it lines up with the pin. The pin actually pokes through the torx socket and you can knock it out from the inside with a skinny nail and a hammer. No dremeling or filling of the outside of the clutch housing required. (although i had done this before I discovered the easy way....ooops)

Happy clutch modding.


Interesting, is this on a 2.1 clutch? I'll have to check, but I'm fairly sure mine wasn't like that. Its possible there was a production change at some point, definitely a good option if your derailleur is built like that.

As an update for anyone who might want to try this themselves. I would recommend not fully unscrewing the T55 adjuster cap (if possible, if you've unscrewed the fastener from the back side of the clutch, you will need to open the whole thing up to tighten it up again [before you set your clutch tension]), the burr from the pin hole really eats up the threads, I've had mine apart a couple times and have fully destroyed the threads, so I can't even thread it back in.

If this happens to you, fear not, just grab a small c-clamp, a small socket, and some 5 min epoxy. Push the adjuster cap in by clamping in the middle of the cap, mix up some epoxy and spread a nice even bead around the edge of the cap. Let it set up and you're good to go, the clutch tension isn't adjustable, but you should be able to dial in plenty of tension with the c-clamp before gluing it in place. I ended up setting my clutch tension quite high (think fully tightened shimano clutch) which I really like.

Posted: Jul 29, 2019 at 6:10 Quote
I've done it this weekend on 2 Sram GX derailleurs with the 2.1 Type clutch and I can confirm that on 1 of them it was possible to push the lock pin using a pick from the inside of the T55 socket as the pin was just barely visible. That being said the pin was not visible at all on the 2nd derailleur I have done. That 2nd one is new from this season (200km on it) but started to loose slightly as well .... maybe the lock pin is not visible in the socket on newer version of the derailleur?!

Posted: Jul 29, 2019 at 11:56 Quote
Was it definitely 11speed type 2.1? SRAM might have removed the fix for all.
My new GX 12speed eagle type 3 has no pin or form of adjustment. The clutch effect is virtually non existent after 4 or 5 months use. The chain is flapping like crazy.
My 11 speed is still going strong on my wife's bike after about 3 years with clutch adjusted and fresh jockey wheels

Posted: Jul 29, 2019 at 14:18 Quote
I haven't gotten too deep into the 12sp Type 3 Eagle clutch yet (only 2 months old). Mine works ok, nowhere near my adjusted 11sp 2.1 though. The T25 cap on the front is removable (just a cap though), which is an improvement, you can remove/reinstall the cage if needed.

You can also check the clutch functionality, take off the T25 cap, the cage and unwind the spring. Use a hex key to check that the clutch is actually providing resistance in one direction, you can do this with the spring in, but its difficult to tell whether you're feeling the spring or the clutch.

When I eventually take the actual clutch mechanism apart to see if there's a way to adjust it, I'll post an updated guide here. (Need to add a couple more beers to what @yeti-monster owes me before I make the trek over the Atlantic to collect)

If anyone has a 12sp Type 3 Eagle derailleur which is beyond repair and wants to donate to the cause, PM me.

Posted: Oct 9, 2019 at 14:33 Quote
I solved this issue by buying Shimano XT rear mech & shifter (best $180 I've spent outside of a Dentist). Been through 2 SRAM derailleurs & I rate my neighbours trash more highly.

Posted: Oct 9, 2019 at 22:54 Quote
11SpeedBen wrote:
I solved this issue by buying Shimano XT rear mech & shifter (best $180 I've spent outside of a Dentist). Been through 2 SRAM derailleurs & I rate my neighbours trash more highly.
Same here, kept the sram shifter and cassette. Just got new xt rear mech, chain and chainring.
Shifts so much crisper than the sram and as a bonus stops the chain beating the shit out of my stays.

Posted: Oct 9, 2019 at 23:28 Quote
wrote:
wrote:
Same here, kept the sram shifter and cassette. Just got new xt rear mech, chain and chainring.
Shifts so much crisper than the sram and as a bonus stops the chain beating the shit out of my stays.

I guess until your running 12 speed then not 11? SRAM - Shimano 'no talkie' until you get up to 12 speed from what I've read. Yes/No?

Posted: Oct 15, 2019 at 8:55 Quote
This is mega news. I've had to replace a GX derailleur with another in the 2 months I've had it and the new one doesn't have as good of a clutch and I'm dropping chains left right and centre.

I've been looking at cost of XT mech and shifter but I got lost in all the brake mount adaptor I-spec bullshit.

So if I can keep the GX Shifter (prefer 2 shift levers than just 1 anyway) and just whack an XT mech on my all GX set up then fan-dabby-dosy.

I would have 0 issues with Eagle if the derailleurs weren't so shite.

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