Stripped cranks

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Stripped cranks
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Posted: Aug 20, 2017 at 11:50 Quote
Riding yesterday I felt my pedal get real loose all of a sudden and by then it was too late and I stripped my crank arm out. I'm looking to replace it but totally clueless on what I actually need or need to look out for sizing wise. Bike is a scott genius plus 2017 model. A friend has an eagle xx crank and chainring like new for $100 but he said he needed to know spindle size to see it it'll work and I don't even know what that is lol. I'm assuming I'll need to switch out rear shifter and derailleur as well as convert to an xd driver, but I really have no clue. Bike is setup with 2x10 but I'd really like a 1x setup. Any help is appreciated, thanks

Posted: Aug 20, 2017 at 14:20 Quote
The crank is a Shimano that came stock right? I would just get a new XT or SLX chainset and put on a 1x narrow wide chain ring.

You can keep the rest of the parts, mech wise it dosent matter if the cage is longer than needed. Plus I think Shimano only makes mountain mechs in short cage for dh purpose (saint/zee).

Dont need a xd driver. Might want to change cassett to something with a wider spread depending on what you have on now. Can go with an expander ring from woolftooth or something to, you take out one cog in the middle and put a 38 in the back. But really as long as you dont really ride big mountains a standard XT 11-34 with a 34 or 32 up front works for pretty much everything.

Posted: Aug 20, 2017 at 15:53 Quote
johan90 wrote:
The crank is a Shimano that came stock right? I would just get a new XT or SLX chainset and put on a 1x narrow wide chain ring.

You can keep the rest of the parts, mech wise it dosent matter if the cage is longer than needed. Plus I think Shimano only makes mountain mechs in short cage for dh purpose (saint/zee).

Dont need a xd driver. Might want to change cassett to something with a wider spread depending on what you have on now. Can go with an expander ring from woolftooth or something to, you take out one cog in the middle and put a 38 in the back. But really as long as you dont really ride big mountains a standard XT 11-34 with a 34 or 32 up front works for pretty much everything.

Thanks for the response.
It is stock Shimano. Im a little confused on the sizing, can do I just need boost spacing or is there a specific size for the bike that I need to figure out? Also for chain ring, should I search for a boost space 10 speed ring or is there something else I need to see up? The local shop didn't have much advise for the the parts

Posted: Aug 21, 2017 at 2:23 Quote
If you want to be sure get a boost version. This was the original as far as I gather "Shimano FC-M627-B2". It runs the standard 104 bcd so there is plenty of narrow wide chainrings to choose from.

Boost cranks usually shifts the chainring 3mm outboard, like being in the big ring on a 2x. So going with a non boost crank gives better alignment for the climbing gears which many people prefer. However to go non boost you need to be quite sure that the size front ring you want to use actually clears the chainstays. I would either ask a friend or go to a shop you are familiar with and get a non boost shimano crankset to just try mounting it and check for clearance.

O+
Posted: Aug 28, 2017 at 2:24 Quote
Smid wrote:
Riding yesterday I felt my pedal get real loose all of a sudden and by then it was too late and I stripped my crank arm out. I'm looking to replace it but totally clueless on what I actually need or need to look out for sizing wise. Bike is a scott genius plus 2017 model. A friend has an eagle xx crank and chainring like new for $100 but he said he needed to know spindle size to see it it'll work and I don't even know what that is lol. I'm assuming I'll need to switch out rear shifter and derailleur as well as convert to an xd driver, but I really have no clue. Bike is setup with 2x10 but I'd really like a 1x setup. Any help is appreciated, thanks

Your BB shell is probably too wide for the eagle crank, unless it the Gxp BB version then you would just need a new bottom bracket. You don't need to change anything on the rear end to switch cranks, but as mentioned you do want to make sure your chain ring lines up/clears the chain stay.

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