Thanks rmr, that’s probably a more sensible route to go.
As for fitting the new rear link, I’ve no complaints about how the frame behaves, the lyrik though just doesn’t seem to be as nice as my old pike and it’s up to 2021 spec and freshly serviced.
But truly just working on possible options as with correct fork sag I’m finding it all a bit harsh. Totally capable though. 10mm more travel would be 7mm actual gain but allow potentially a softer initial travel that would ramp up with tokens later? Unless I’ve got that bit wrong.
Thanks rmr, that’s probably a more sensible route to go.
As for fitting the new rear link, I’ve no complaints about how the frame behaves, the lyrik though just doesn’t seem to be as nice as my old pike and it’s up to 2021 spec and freshly serviced.
But truly just working on possible options as with correct fork sag I’m finding it all a bit harsh. Totally capable though. 10mm more travel would be 7mm actual gain but allow potentially a softer initial travel that would ramp up with tokens later? Unless I’ve got that bit wrong.
I keep reading that the newest debonair spring is actually a step back and that the previous version was much better (despite sitting a few mm into it's travel). Also, more travel = more betterer
• Average motion ratio (inverse of leverage ratio): AM9 is high, DW bikes are almost always low. • Motion ratio curve shape: -- AM9 original: Very rising rate throughout. -- AM9 RRR: Moderately rising, with a drop at the end, presumably to offset the rise at the end of an air spring's stroke. -- DW: Varies, but usually mildly rising with a drop at the end. • Pedaling anti-squat: -- AM9 (either link) Very high, with a steady drop from start to end. -- DW: Very high, with an S-shaped drop from start to end. "Plateau" in the pedaling zone. • Brake squat (AKA "anti-rise"): -- AM9 (either link): Starts high and drops sharply. -- DW: Usually starts high and stays high.
Ibis is supplying their bikes with a very light compression damping tune. Bird's is more traditional.
They both pedal more firmly than average, which also means more kickback while pedaling (but not while coasting).
A typical DW and the AM9 RRR are both well suited to an air shock. The AM9 with the original link works well with a coil.
I'm not terribly picky about brake squat. You may find the AM9 is a little less "choppy" on the rear brake, while a DW stays a tiny bit lower. Few people notice brake squat unless it's far outside normal values.
I could go on as long as you like, but we'll both be happier if you let me know whether you have specific questions!
I've found my AM9 to be very efficient under braking with very little in the way of squat or kickback, even when it's an aggressive last second haul on the brakes on steep tech stuff. I've been on plenty of single pivot bikes to know what they can be like, and the latest Orange Stage 6 and Cotic RocketMax still suffers from a bit of brake jack despite trying to tune it out as much as possible, that feeling when the rear wheel feels like it's hanging up for second on a root or rock under braking, which is not something I've ever really noticed with my Bird. I've not ridden a DW bike so can't comment on how they compare to Birds.
I have a V1 and a lot of what I'm about to say is covered by the new V3 frame, but it was a very firm and supportive riding bike when I first built it, with a CCDB Air shock, which at times used to frustrate me at times because it never felt like it had 150mm of travel. My previous Nicolai Helius AC 29er had 10mm less travel and felt plusher, but I think part of that was down to the fantastic Avalanche shock which felt bottomless. I'm quite a light rider which I don't think helped either, as my heavier AM9 owning riding buddies never seemed to complain, but a swap to coil improved matters, then I added the RRR linkage and had a custom tune done on the shock (Bomber) and it now feels like a properly plush yet still fairly supportive enduro machine. The trade-off is that it is less poppy and a wee bit less fun when you just want to have a play, but swapping to a firmer coil or back to the air shock, which I do from time to time, sorts that out.
You may find the AM9 is a little less "choppy" on the rear brake, while a DW stays a tiny bit lower. Few people notice brake squat unless it's far outside normal values.
Hey Guys, bit late to the aeris 145 party, but I did grab one of the frames a few months back when on special..
finally collecting it from being invisiframed this weekend, and plan to start my build, will list my parts to go on it, please let me know any opinions
green m/l frame with rockshox super deluxe shock yari 170mm forks (may lower travel) bird headset raceface atlas 35mm stem renthal 35mm bars rockshox reverb dropper charge spoon saddle dmr death grips magura trail sport brake set 4 pot front and 2 pot rear hope pro 4 hubs on spank rims ht pedals
I have one of the newer 12 speed deore cranks to use for now with an slx shifter and mech, just need to get the cassette.
and im torn on which tyres to use, I was thinking a 2.6 front and 2.4 rear. hans damf maybe
Yeah its not too different, I managed to keep a few parts from my nukeproof scout, and had been planning a full sus build so hoarding other bits where I could,
18th of jan isn't too far away. I was lucky to get my forks off of the lbs mechanic, he removed from his own bike from new and I got a bargain,