Ah not such a bargain after all then. A few carbon frames I’ve seen for around that so I need to decide what I’m doing.
Intense, Bird, Orange or Canyon for this build.
Cheers for the info
Yeah, I think the value for bird comes through buying complete bikes. Before buying a full bike from Bird I looked just getting a frame but, for me, I didn't think it was worth it.
Ah not such a bargain after all then. A few carbon frames I’ve seen for around that so I need to decide what I’m doing.
Intense, Bird, Orange or Canyon for this build.
Cheers for the info
Yeah, I think the value for bird comes through buying complete bikes. Before buying a full bike from Bird I looked just getting a frame but, for me, I didn't think it was worth it.
I disagree, I built mine from frame only, I found it refreshing that I could purchase as a bare frame without being forced to purchase a shock I didn’t want to use and really enjoyed the process and found through shopping around and scoring a few deals I could build up a bike exactly as I wanted for a fraction of what a similar spec should have cost on the configurator.
I think £1000 ish for a bare brand new alloy frame is a pretty good price, slightly undercutting commencal - there are regularly nearly new shocks going through eBay that will fit for £100-200 if you want to keep it cheap.
Personally I already had a really good rear shock from my previous bike and for around £200 I had it tuned, serviced, the stroke lengthened and custom shimmed to fit and suit the AM9s suspension curve
Ah not such a bargain after all then. A few carbon frames I’ve seen for around that so I need to decide what I’m doing.
Intense, Bird, Orange or Canyon for this build.
Cheers for the info
Depends on what you want. In my case, I wanted specific geometry and kinematic parameters and Bird was almost spot-on at about half the price of other options.
(Plus a -1 Angleset? How I’d intend to run it as it retains a lot of the geo)
Back from an alps trip and I couldn’t help but think I just want a bit more!
Before making the change to 170 mm, have you gone through the "do I need more travel?" checklist?
- Are you bottoming out regularly at 160 mm? - If so, have you tried both more spring rate (ex. air pressure) and / or more volume spacers? - Many people run too little compression damping in an effort to make the fork feel "plush", but this can actually make a fork feel more harsh. Have you tried more high-speed compression damping?
More travel won't make a fork feel more "plush", it will only help manage the big hits that bottom out your current set-up - and it's only 6% more travel.
If you choose to proceed with 170 mm, here's the concern about the Angleset: you'll preserve the stock geometry at full extension, but you'll have a 1° steeper head angle at bottom-out. I'm more concerned about the head angle from about 50% - 100% travel, as this is when you really need the extra insurance of a slack head angle.
My initial impression is 170 mm with -1° angle offset will cause more problems than it solves.
That’s a good shout, I like your thinking when addressing it.
Firstly when I saw -1 for the angleset i mean taking it from a stock 65.5 to a 64.5 (I already have this fitted) so at full compression it’s going to be 1 degree slacker although that will also feel like a lower front end at that point.
I wouldn’t say I’m blowing though the travel regularly - but I’ve definitely still not found the best setup on my lyrik ultimate yet, even with 3 tokens I’m lacking the support I’m used to on my old 36.
Obviously this isn’t back to back and there’s significant variables like a much bigger bike and 29”’wheels as supposed to 27.5 a steeper head angle and a longer stem but I just didn’t feel as in control on the big bird as I did on my patrol on some of the steep naturals I enjoyed riding the year before.
In a lot of situations in the bike park itself it felt really composed and playful. I experimented with stem length and steerer spacers retuning to my original 50mm stem and raising the stack height by 5mm (although i may drop this if I can find a 2.5 spacer)
Ive also progressively added more compression damping thoughout both my recent trip and time on the bike. Slightly frustrating that with so much adjustment available the advice I read from rockshox was to start from fully open and 6 clicks rebound and apply from there.
With my 36 I was able to use Richie Rudes damper settings (with less tokens) and detuned it slightly as I rode it which was a pretty great thing to be able to do.
It’s an idea that has kinda been growing - my thinking being that I can effectively raise the front end - gain a slightly slack HT and have a bit more travel to play with.
Ah not such a bargain after all then. A few carbon frames I’ve seen for around that so I need to decide what I’m doing.
Intense, Bird, Orange or Canyon for this build.
Cheers for the info
Depends on what you want. In my case, I wanted specific geometry and kinematic parameters and Bird was almost spot-on at about half the price of other options.
^same - with the exception of the HT angle! I had a big shopping list not gonna lie I was surprised by just how dialled the bird looked
Ah not such a bargain after all then. A few carbon frames I’ve seen for around that so I need to decide what I’m doing.
Intense, Bird, Orange or Canyon for this build.
Cheers for the info
Yeah, I think the value for bird comes through buying complete bikes. Before buying a full bike from Bird I looked just getting a frame but, for me, I didn't think it was worth it.
I disagree, I built mine from frame only, I found it refreshing that I could purchase as a bare frame without being forced to purchase a shock I didn’t want to use and really enjoyed the process and found through shopping around and scoring a few deals I could build up a bike exactly as I wanted for a fraction of what a similar spec should have cost on the configurator.
I think £1000 ish for a bare brand new alloy frame is a pretty good price, slightly undercutting commencal - there are regularly nearly new shocks going through eBay that will fit for £100-200 if you want to keep it cheap.
Personally I already had a really good rear shock from my previous bike and for around £200 I had it tuned, serviced, the stroke lengthened and custom shimmed to fit and suit the AM9s suspension curve
Keep in mind that a slacker static angle doesn't change your bottom-out angle.
What about reduced offset instead of a slacker head angle?
On it already, I’m in the middle of moving house but will try and get out and test in the uk, I do wonder it may be sensation related to the bigger wheels at slow speeds;
I don’t understand how it won’t change the bottom out angle though - negating stroke length two forks at equal travel going though the same stoke at different fixed angles will surely result in a different finishing angle
shorter cranks are in the offing as well, heading back to 165 over the 170 I fitted on this build as well.
I don’t understand how it won’t change the bottom out angle though - negating stroke length two forks at equal travel going though the same stoke at different fixed angles will surely result in a different finishing angle
Same crown, same lowers. At full compression, the lowers nearly touch the crown. At full compression, you wouldn't be able to tell a 150 mm fork from a 170 mm fork.
ive updated my Aeris MK1.5 over the last couple of months slowly moving away from the more stealthy version i was running . happy with the outcome loving the new to me wheels and fork ,so thought i would post it here. one day i will get a newer bird but this bike still shreds so im happy.
I don’t understand how it won’t change the bottom out angle though - negating stroke length two forks at equal travel going though the same stoke at different fixed angles will surely result in a different finishing angle
Same crown, same lowers. At full compression, the lowers nearly touch the crown. At full compression, you wouldn't be able to tell a 150 mm fork from a 170 mm fork.
I see what you mean dude, yeah that's true - though you were referring to the angleset and still same bottom out angle as one with out