10-50T on SRAM Road Shifters

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10-50T on SRAM Road Shifters
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Posted: May 26, 2018 at 15:21 Quote
Thought I would post my experience building a gravel bike running a 10-50T Garbaruk 11-speed cassette. This is not cheap to do, but the final result is awesome.

Parts I Used:
SRAM Force 1 Shifter
Modified XX1 Eagle 3.0 clutch Rear Derailleur
Garbaruk 28138 cassette 11-speed 10-50 teeth for SRAM XD

Experience:
1) If you want a clutch rear der, the Garbaruk cage does not work. I installed it on a Force 1 3.0 rear mech and it is missing the pin that stops the derailleur cage from spinning. You can do without this and it worked somewhat, but it "crashes", like wadded up chain an stuck shifter. Happens when shifting fast under load in the bigger cogs. I don't exactly know why.
2) As you probably know the Force 1, and all other SRAM 11-spd road shifters, are Exact Actuation. The Force 1 Rear Derailleur is exact actuation. All the SRAM 11 and 12 speed mountain rear Derailleurs are X-Actuation (different motion ratio).
3) Road Rear Derailleurs have cable adjustments on them, mountain do not.
4) The Eagle 12 Speed Rear Derailleur is exactly what you want for this cassette, except it does not have the cable adjustment and is the wrong ratio (X-Actuation instead of Exact Actuation)

Discovery:
1) The Force 1 3.0 Rear Derailleur is functionally the same as the XX1 Eagle 3.0 except for 3 parts (1) the part that adjusts the cable (2) the cam that the cable wraps around (3) the cage assembly.
2) If you buy both the Force 1 and the XX1 Eagle Rear Derailleurs, you can swap the first two parts and it (the XX1 Eagle) works perfectly. The new cam changes the ratio, and the barrel adjuster makes it adjustable. To be clear, you are using a modified XX1 Eagle 3.0 Rear derailleur on an 11-speed Garbaruk 10-50T cassette. I suppose you can also put the Eagle cage assembly on the Force 1 but I did not try this (its possible there are other differences, the safe bet is to use the eagle since it is designed for a really long cage).
3) Yes, the 11-speed chain spins fine on the 12-speed pulleys.

Hope this helps save some headaches. I'm sure there is a more economical combination of SRAM parts to achieve this, if anyone tries it out post your setup.

Posted: Jan 8, 2019 at 0:04 Quote
I’ve been doing something very similar with exact actuation on a bike build recently

10-50t garbaruk 11 speed cassette

Sram rival 1 11 speed upper derailleur section (to retain exact actuation ratio) and the clutch and cage from a 12 speed gx eagle derailler.

Shifts flawlessly from 2 to 11 but really doesn’t seem to like 1st gear shifting at all,

The reason for wanting to retain exact actuation is that the bike is used for xc and multi day endurance events. For xc I race flat mtb bars (using sram apex flat bar shifter) and for multi day endurance stuff I’m using drop bars and rival 1 levers.

Posted: Feb 1, 2019 at 17:34 Quote
Good to know, this is cool

Posted: Mar 23, 2019 at 14:47 Quote
I did end up sorting it in the end, chain was a link too short hence it struggled into 1st, longer chain and it shifts nicely now ????

Posted: Aug 27, 2019 at 16:07 Quote
anden2309 wrote:
I’ve been doing something very similar with exact actuation on a bike build recently

10-50t garbaruk 11 speed cassette

Sram rival 1 11 speed upper derailleur section (to retain exact actuation ratio) and the clutch and cage from a 12 speed gx eagle derailler.

Shifts flawlessly from 2 to 11 but really doesn’t seem to like 1st gear shifting at all,

The reason for wanting to retain exact actuation is that the bike is used for xc and multi day endurance events. For xc I race flat mtb bars (using sram apex flat bar shifter) and for multi day endurance stuff I’m using drop bars and rival 1 levers.

I’m interested in trying this out myself. Sounds really cool. When you say you swapped the clutch, what parts exactly did you replace? The internals? Or is there a way to replace the entire mechanism? Thanks!

Posted: Sep 17, 2019 at 1:03 Quote
Bare minimum the only parts you actually need to fit to an exact actuation mech (apex1,rival1 or force1) is the cage from an eagle 12 speed mech. The only real benefit you get from using the clutch assembly is that the lockout pin is on the correct location for the cage then, if you don’t care about this then you don’t need the clutch body

I used mine for gbduro (1240 miles mostly off rod) between lands ends and Jon ogroats over 9 days and the mech was flawless

Posted: Sep 23, 2019 at 21:58 Quote
anden2309 wrote:
Bare minimum the only parts you actually need to fit to an exact actuation mech (apex1,rival1 or force1) is the cage from an eagle 12 speed mech. The only real benefit you get from using the clutch assembly is that the lockout pin is on the correct location for the cage then, if you don’t care about this then you don’t need the clutch body

I used mine for gbduro (1240 miles mostly off rod) between lands ends and Jon ogroats over 9 days and the mech was flawless

Would love to see pics of what your derailleur looks like now. I’m trying to imagine how you removed the clutch mechanism from each mech - is it really as simple as pulling the two c-clips and retaining rods from the lower part of the bodies? You don’t have to do anything with the tension spring?

Thanks!

Posted: Oct 13, 2019 at 21:14 Quote
anden2309 wrote:
Bare minimum the only parts you actually need to fit to an exact actuation mech (apex1,rival1 or force1) is the cage from an eagle 12 speed mech. The only real benefit you get from using the clutch assembly is that the lockout pin is on the correct location for the cage then, if you don’t care about this then you don’t need the clutch body

I used mine for gbduro (1240 miles mostly off rod) between lands ends and Jon ogroats over 9 days and the mech was flawless

I'm also super interested in this. I have a bike I switch between road and gravel/bikepack wheelsets with, and this would make a huge difference in my setup.

Am I correct that the "clutch assembly" is the part bolted to the bottom side of the parallelogram? How did you remove that and replace it with the one from the GX?

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