Dirt bike with more travel

PB Forum :: Dirt Jumping & Street
Dirt bike with more travel
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flag brezzers
Posted: May 29, 2018 at 12:54 Quote
Hi
I'm thinking to get a dirt bike frame with 120/130 mm trave, l single speed and wide bar but I'm confuse about the look and geometry.
If anybody have something like that post pic so i can see.
Tnx
flag rickayyyy
Posted: May 29, 2018 at 13:35 Quote
Have a look in here
https://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=1478&pagenum=1

They’re sort of what you’re talking about but it’d be worth thinking about how a longer travel fork is going to change a modern dj frame.

There’s also the nukeproof scout, which isn’t sold as a dj bike but has the longer travel and can do the dirt jump thing just not as well as a completely dedicited dj frame
flag cmc4130
Posted: May 31, 2018 at 7:41 Quote
If you want it for regular Dirt Jump / pump track / skatepark / street riding, then 120-130mm travel is not necessary or ideal. 80mm-100mm is better. Almost all DJ frames are built around a 100mm travel fork.

If you want a "Freeride Hard Tail" or "All Mountain Hard Tail," well then, yeah, sure you can run a 120/130mm fork. That's what my NS Surge Evo is:

photo

Compare with a DJ like the Black Market Edit1. The Edit1 has a lower fork, lower top tube, and shorter back end.
photo

Check out this thread:

The Sexiest AM/FR/Enduro Hardtail Thread (Please read the opening post)
https://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=131375
flag ntd14
Posted: May 31, 2018 at 17:59 Quote
I love my 2018 nukeproof scout, but really wouldn't recommend it as a dirt jump bike, they are just too long and slack, same goes for the NS surge Evo and the Dartmoor hornet. The 2017 or earlier versions might be better though, still nothing like a dedicated jump bike. The closest you will find will be a 4x bike. Other than the nukeproof there are NS, Dartmoor and some other brands still making 4x style bikes.

What do you want the bike for? Really need this answered before we can help you. There is a lot more to a bike than just it's travel to make it capable at a given task.
flag fitnessgeek
Posted: May 31, 2018 at 20:17 Quote
Martin Soderstrom runs 120mm fork on P3 for higher stack height etc:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygMqFYYs1iY
flag brezzers
Posted: Jun 1, 2018 at 4:51 Quote
ntd14 wrote:
I love my 2018 nukeproof scout, but really wouldn't recommend it as a dirt jump bike, they are just too long and slack, same goes for the NS surge Evo and the Dartmoor hornet. The 2017 or earlier versions might be better though, still nothing like a dedicated jump bike. The closest you will find will be a 4x bike. Other than the nukeproof there are NS, Dartmoor and some other brands still making 4x style bikes.

What do you want the bike for? Really need this answered before we can help you. There is a lot more to a bike than just it's travel to make it capable at a given task.

I like the handling of the dirt bike and the geometry of the frame.
I was thinking of some flow dh track and pump track i remember one of my friends have a dirt frame and 140 mm travel on front and it was so capable to ride on smaller dh track and pump track.
So i was thinking to make a bike that can ride both some smaller dh course, pump track and stil be good to hit a jumps, something between slopestyle and freeride bike.
flag rickayyyy
Posted: Jun 1, 2018 at 5:39 Quote
CMC that’s a sick bike your evo is
flag ntd14
Posted: Jun 4, 2018 at 17:53 Quote
The closest you are going to get for something like that is a 4x frame. A normal dirt jump bike is already well set-up to be a pump track bike. DJ frames are purposefully made unstable so they feel more playful, are easier to pump, jump and throw around because of the tight head angle, short chain stay, short reach, high BB, short wheel base. The other extreme, DH frames are the exact opposite, because racers are after maximum stability at speed, so they are very slack, long and low. 4X racing kinda requires a compromise between the two, and IMO a good 4x course is a good flow trail. Have a look at some 4x videos and see if that kind of thing is what you are wanting to ride.

Travel is not really what determiners how well suited a bike is to a job, geometry is. Putting a 140 fork on a jump bike designed for a 100 fork will not make it more capable on DH, just make it worse (or different anyway) on jumps. There are a few slacker jump bike frames around though, Transition PBJ, Dartmoor hornet 4x (not the regular hornet), banshee amp off the top of my head but im sure there are others. I have only ridden the transition and only on a pump track, and its a nice bike. The Dartmoor hornet 4x sounds like it might be a bit more of what you are after with a 120 - 140mm fork on it.

Be careful to get a fork that will tolerate being jumped though. Dirt jump forks take a lot of forces that normal forks of that travel dont, a fox 32 or something wont work, you will need to cut down a 36, pike DJ, manitou circus, or a like. Also the damping systems required for DJ are different to normal riding so make sure it will cope with both. The fox can, not sure how well the others do. In DJ we want super stiff forks with a lot of damping to cope with big hits and let us away with single mistakes, where as on flow trails we want something that will smooth out the bumps to keep traction and not wreck our wrists.

Of course you can ride just about anything down pretty much anything if your good enough, but that doesn’t mean its the best tool for the job.
flag Birchcustoms
Posted: Jun 5, 2018 at 4:07 Quote
Consider something like a small framed Chromag Stylus or Cotic BFE or something similar. With a Pike DJ 140, you could run that bike on just about anything that you are capable of handling. And with some gears, you could still pedal it around your local singletrack
flag cmc4130
Posted: Jun 5, 2018 at 18:14 Quote
fitnessgeek wrote:
Martin Soderstrom runs 120mm fork on P3 for higher stack height etc:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygMqFYYs1iY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygMqFYYs1iY



That’s a good point. I haven’t tried it, but i could see how it could work. Martin is pretty tall, and that would help bring the front end up. And, for big slope hits, he could use the travel.

I did put a 130mm on a Black Market Killswitch and I think it made it better.
flag cmc4130
Posted: Jul 22, 2021 at 7:41 Quote
A little follow up. I recently picked up this X-Fusion fork used. I thought I'd experiment with the geometry of a longer travel fork. I think it's a 150 or 160.

So far, I like the handling, but the fork is too mushy for what I want--I know they're supposed to be mushy if it was on a full-suspension freeride/enduro bike, so I'm trying to figure out what I can do with this fork to stiffen it up. The adjustment knobs don't do much.

photo

Also put a dropper post on it.

photo
flag Gabriellk
Posted: Aug 16, 2021 at 20:05 Quote
brezzers wrote:
Hi
I'm thinking to get a dirt bike frame with 120/130 mm trave, l single speed and wide bar but I'm confuse about the look and geometry.
If anybody have something like that post pic so i can see.
Tnx
It is determined by the frame and shock. Some frames offer extra clearance, allowing you to use a longer stroke shock to increase travel, while others don't, causing the wheel to rub at full compression.

Also, installing a shock with a different eye to eye length than the factory one to gain the extra stroke can alter the overall geometry of the bike, resulting in interference difficulties with the rear suspension.

In general, getting extra rear travel out of a bike is a difficult task that is rarely worthwhile. However, there are only a few bikes on which this can be done quite quickly, so it's worth looking into yours to see if anyone has done it before.
flag forty0
Posted: Aug 17, 2021 at 9:10 Quote
cmc4130 wrote:
A little follow up. I recently picked up this X-Fusion fork used. I thought I'd experiment with the geometry of a longer travel fork. I think it's a 150 or 160.

So far, I like the handling, but the fork is too mushy for what I want--I know they're supposed to be mushy if it was on a full-suspension freeride/enduro bike, so I'm trying to figure out what I can do with this fork to stiffen it up. The adjustment knobs don't do much.

looks like a vengeance air?
great fork

should have the hlr damper, which is quite good, and simple to work on, check oil height and make sure its correct so damper fully functional

while it wont lock out, and wont feel overly firm around the parking lot, the compression will get fairly stiff when actually riding at speed, the hsc is pretty effective when turned up, but lsc is a little less aggressive and you will always have a little movement off the top

lowering the fork helps this a little, smaller air spring is a little less mushy, but just ramp up the psi a bit and slow down rebound a few clicks and should be fine

i setup a friends at 120mm for dj use and it rode fantastic

i have a coil version on my bigger bike and love it, always kept an eye out for an air version to slam and put on a slope build

they also made an updated damper for it called the roughcut damper, its a bladder style damper rather than twin tube like hlr, if i recall correctly it was like $175 to upgrade when i looked into it

xfusion has pretty good communication with its customers, and you might be able to talk to them about any tuning changes to help stiffen things up, swapping out shims on the lsc doesnt look difficult for example, they respond well to phone calls and less well to email ime

enjoy the fork!
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