Best pedaling long travel 29r

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Best pedaling long travel 29r
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Posted: Jun 21, 2018 at 11:55 Quote
I’m curious to know what 29r you are riding and why?
I’m your opinion what makes a good pedalling long travel 29r?
What bike would you recommend I check out?

At 6’2” and 200 lbs w my gear on im pretty sure a 29r is going to be my next mount

They’ve been getting better and better every year. Pros on 29rs are now routinely winning all sorts of events on them.

There are still quite a few trails on the n shore where it’s great to have every inch of suspension available. I prefer pedalling to car shuttling or riding so it’s definitely important to have a bike that climbs great too.

With so many expensive bikes to choose from I figured a little pinkbike feedback was in order. Thanks in advance for your two cents worth.

Posted: Jun 21, 2018 at 19:56 Quote
Imo suspension design with a light set of carbon wheels and good rubber. Switch Infinity, VPP, and DW link provide great pedaling platforms. Check out the Yeti SB5.5, Santa Cruz Hightower LT, Ibis Ripmo. Unless you are looking for the best climbing monster truck, probably the new Pivot Firebird 29 or Intense Carbine. I'm partial to American brands though.

Posted: Jun 21, 2018 at 21:03 Quote
DW link for me personally has been unreal compared to VPP and that's in fully open mode in middle setting but 1 is plusher Wink Wink

It all really comes down to rider input so get out there and start demoing different bikes at demo days or shops hiring out etc. Ibis Ripmo should be on your shortlist tbf if you can stomach having all that travel as I get away with 130mm rear and 140mm up front currently, but then you're in proper MTB land of the gods for riding terrain so...

It's worth it even if only a car park test ride ime.

Oh and carbon wheels are all good and well for a direct quick handling ride but alloy rims represent given flex which add to ride feel too and have just right amount of give depending on width, profile, etc.
I wouldn't say there is a need to go out and spend $$$$ more on carbon wheels when in fact a decent set of alloys $$$ would do a lovely job as is.

Posted: Jun 22, 2018 at 8:15 Quote
I know it probably sounds crazy, but I have experienced less pedal bob and more efficient climbing (in OPEN mode) with bikes that have a 77 degree and steeper STA regardless of the HTA and weight. Both the Sentinel and my Geometron G16 had/have displayed more efficient climbing on transfer stages when riding side by side while observing others on bikes like SC, Trek, Evil, etc. Having your weight more forward and not hanging further back toward the rear wheel really is a game changer in climbing by unweighting the rear end to minimize input to the shock. This paired with proper ETT and crank arm length for your size fit will open your eyes to what's possible with slacker long travel bikes of any wheel size. Specialized and Kona are stepping up in this area as well, so I'd definitely keep an eye on the this part of a bike geometry and not dismiss a bike based solely on rear suspension design alone. Demo, Demo, Demo when possible. BTW. Not sure there is a longer travel 29'r than the G16 with both 155 and 175mm travel modes! Just Saying Wink

Good Luck!

Posted: Jun 23, 2018 at 13:33 Quote
Gives me lots to check out and consider.
I definetely agree w the try before you buy strategy’s. so much $$$$ and they all do ride different.

It’s interesting about carbon wheels. I’ve heard guys say that the stiffness of carbon wheels makes more of positive difference than the lightness of a carbon frame because of how instant the response is to rider input.

How much stiffer can they be over a properly laced alu box rim???

I can’t see stiffer wheels making a huge difference compared to a nice light (sub 30 lb) rig between yer legs.
I don’t know though. I’m Not going to discount it and it’s Only $1500 for the upgrade
Thx for the excellent feedback!!

Posted: Jun 23, 2018 at 19:03 Quote
MikeAzBS wrote:
Unless you are looking for the best climbing monster truck, probably the new Pivot Firebird 29 or Intense Carbine. I'm partial to American brands though.

Word! I’m partial too. That pivot firebird 29 looks totally badass. 162/170 travel and It reviewed really well across the board as a great climber. Gonna go scratch and sniff one tmw.

Posted: Jun 24, 2018 at 6:05 Quote
Carbon hoops are stiff but ya gotta think tyre optimum pressure to get them working nicely and not squirmy on the rims as my DT SWISS EXC 1550s running tubes mind would mean I'd have to pump up more to stop 2.2" odd tyres from rolling about but the direct pedal transfer to rolling energy is insane for a while after fitting them.

I would rather a decent alloy set these days over a carbon set even if tech has probs moved on in carbon manufacturing of hoops.

Posted: Jun 24, 2018 at 10:50 Quote
I have ridden most of the bikes being discussed and I'd have to say that the Yeti Switch Infinity link system is unreal how it causes my SB 5.5 to smash up climbs but still feel bottomless on chunky DH
photo
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Posted: Jun 27, 2018 at 12:43 Quote
Having played the cool carbon game for hoops and bikes for several years, I think they have a place given the terrain and type of riding, unless of course, your a Sponsored Pro getting freebees. By that, I mean, I've cracked (exploded) two rear carbon enduro/dh wheels and have had both a '16 and newer Turq Yeti (Top Tube) and Pivot (Rear Triangle) frame crack without crashing and both warrantied (kudos to both companies for that!). If your a pro or have lots of cash to get a new bike/wheelset each season, then heck, why not. There's lots of great carbon stuff out there for sure. But for someone who rides in rough natural dh terrain or bike parks with natural freeride features and a limited checkbook balance, I'd stick to Al for both. Being able to bend a tubeless setup rim bead is sometimes rideable and, if not, usually fixable in minutes with Al. Not so much for Carbon, although they do stay truer longer. Just my meager two cents.

Posted: Jun 28, 2018 at 5:40 Quote
livlief wrote:
If your a pro or have lots of cash to get a new bike/wheelset each season, then heck, why not.

It’s interesting to get another perspective. I have a tortured 28 lb 2012 specialized enduro expert in alloy that’s ready for the rafters.

My concern with an aluminum 29r with aluminum rims is that it would weigh almost as much as my DH bike.

I haven’t heard many horror stories about carbon bikes and rims blowing up although I have imagined watching my new carbon bike cartwheel down a rock face without me.

That is something that my aluminum enduro did without complaining too much.

What are you riding now? Does it include
carbon? Are you suggesting that carbon rims/frames are better suited to xc than enduro or DH?

Posted: Jun 28, 2018 at 9:18 Quote
grandpahucker wrote:
livlief wrote:
If your a pro or have lots of cash to get a new bike/wheelset each season, then heck, why not.

It’s interesting to get another perspective. I have a tortured 2012 specialized enduro expert that’s ready for the rafters.
My concern with an aluminum 29r with aluminum rims is that it would weigh almost as much as my DH bike.
I haven’t heard a ton of horror stories about carbon bikes and rims blowing up Although I have imagined watching my new carbon bike cartwheel down a rock face without me. That is something that my aluminum enduro did without complaining too much. What are you riding now? Does it include carbon?
2018 Yeti SB 5.5 Turq and it rips! It's a great technical climber and hits rock gardens fast without slowing down.

O+
Posted: Jun 28, 2018 at 20:04 Quote
I have a Transition Sentinel and I love the way it climbs. I demo'd a Yeti before I demo'd and purchased the Sentinel. The Yeti felt like I was sitting on a cloud without a noticeable amount of pedal bob. The sentinel with the rear shock "locked out" climbs better in my opinion though. The seat angle pushes your weight forward onto the bars making front wheel traction on steep climbs a non issue. Not to mention the Sentinel charges through anything on the down hill and rolls over anything going up.

For almost half the cost of a Yeti, the Sentinel is the most bang for its buck in my book. I just got mine last weekend and have put almost 80 miles on it so far. I need padded shorts.

Posted: Jun 28, 2018 at 22:22 Quote
FrozenPieThief wrote:
I have a Transition Sentinel and I love the way it climbs. I demo'd a Yeti before I demo'd and purchased the Sentinel. The Yeti felt like I was sitting on a cloud without a noticeable amount of pedal bob. The sentinel with the rear shock "locked out" climbs better in my opinion though. The seat angle pushes your weight forward onto the bars making front wheel traction on steep climbs a non issue. Not to mention the Sentinel charges through anything on the down hill and rolls over anything going up.

For almost half the cost of a Yeti, the Sentinel is the most bang for its buck in my book. I just got mine last weekend and have put almost 80 miles on it so far. I need padded shorts.
Good feedback! I haven't had the opportunity to test out any of yhe Transition bikes so my opinion is just based off my personal experiences. I've been on newer Specialized Enduro 29rs, Norco Ranges, Scott Genus LTs, Scott Sparks, Santa Cruz Hightower LTs, Orbea Occam TRs, to name a few. Of the lot listed I found that the Yeti just did most of what I like better and I got a major price break because some good friends of mine own the shop where I picked up the frame. I did add one 10cc volume spacer in the Fox Factory 36 and it feels a lot better now. I may add one more in later if it doesn't soften up more. I haven't had a chance to take it on some of the heavier duty trails but I will soon and report back with my findings.
Please keep this thread alive and feel free to add other bikes to the review/comparison as you please.

Stay safe and rubber side down!!!

Posted: Jun 30, 2018 at 23:19 Quote
grandpahucker wrote:
I’m curious in your opinion on what makes a good pedalling long travel 29r. Is it seat angle? Chainstay length? Reach? Head angle? BB height? Some combination of all the above? What bike would you recommend I check out?
I still love the gnar but I definitely want a bike that pedals and climbs great.

I’ve been riding mtb’s since 1988 but I’m out of the loop on the new big wheel scene. With so many expensive bikes to choose from I figured some research is in order. Thanks in advance for your two cents worth.

It's a multitude of the factors you mentioned including suspension platform.
When demoing bikes different tyres can have a huge impact in the perceived efficiency of a bike too.

I'm not a massive yeti fan. I had an sb6 but found it a bit fragile compared to the pivot I had at the same time. It was light and efficient but the bearings died quickly in U.K. Conditions and it relies on the switch slide rail to achieve the same thing as DW link which is right in the line of fire. If I was racing and looking for the lightest option it'd be on the list though.

DW link is awesome BUT as livlief states above, a steep seat angle and more radical geometry can have a more noticeable effect and allow you to climb what before seemed impossible. I too had a mojo Geometron and it's quite startling as to the impact such a radical bike can have on your riding. It's not going to improve your manuals and whips but in just about every other regard it can destroy previous conceptions about how much speed you can carry, how hard you can push the front end and what you can climb. I owned mine at the same time I had a pivot switchblade and who.st the switchblade was noticeably lighter, I could still climb everything on the Geometron I could on the switchblade. It lost out to the switchblade in hike a bike comfort and flat ground sprinting due to it having 27.5 hoops but the weight was far less of an issue than I expected. Until getting this bike I was pretty hung up on light weight bikes for trail bike/am duty, now I'm more concerned about geo.

If pivot made a 29 er firebird with the same geo as the geometron, that would be one hell of a bike!

Posted: Jul 1, 2018 at 8:05 Quote
Looks like The Firebird 29r is basically a 6 and 7 bike. Who else is doing that?

It runs w a 1x, short chainstays (1” shorter than my 26” bike) with low(ish) standover, 74* seat angle, long reach, 29” wheels, a 65* head tube angle. The wheelbase is only 45 mm longer than my 26” enduro.

These new bikes are so radically different from even a few years ago.

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