Jeffsy 29er Thread

PB Forum :: YT Industries
Jeffsy 29er Thread
Author Message
Posted: Dec 6, 2019 at 7:05 Quote
scz4 wrote:
What tool do I need to remove my E13 TRS Race carbon cranks to allow me to replace my chainring. Got a 30T oval to put on to replace my 32.

This one??

https://www.tredz.co.uk/.E-Thirteen-BB-Install-Spider-Removal-Tool_81521.htm?sku=267821&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google_shopping&gclid=CjwKCAiAlajvBRB_EiwA4vAqiBU6YC_XkmHt_ke6zLc1U8Qx4S92c6ytreFgPReCBK6kULJIkE3tjxoCxy4QAvD_BwE

Anything else required?

That's the only special tool. If you have a Shimano BB tool you can use it along with this one. Otherwise, just a regular wrench. It's a bit of a pita to get it to stay in place with as much torque as you have to use to remove the nut. Be careful not to cross-thread when reinstalling as the threads are fine.

It takes quite a bit of muscle to get it off. Best way I found to tighten/loosen is to put the crank arm against the ground, hold the BB wrench and nut in place with your other hand, and press against the ground, using your body weight to provide the leverage.

Posted: Dec 6, 2019 at 7:29 Quote
serveace wrote:
scz4 wrote:
What tool do I need to remove my E13 TRS Race carbon cranks to allow me to replace my chainring. Got a 30T oval to put on to replace my 32.

This one??

https://www.tredz.co.uk/.E-Thirteen-BB-Install-Spider-Removal-Tool_81521.htm?sku=267821&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google_shopping&gclid=CjwKCAiAlajvBRB_EiwA4vAqiBU6YC_XkmHt_ke6zLc1U8Qx4S92c6ytreFgPReCBK6kULJIkE3tjxoCxy4QAvD_BwE

Anything else required?

That's the only special tool. If you have a Shimano BB tool you can use it along with this one. Otherwise, just a regular wrench. It's a bit of a pita to get it to stay in place with as much torque as you have to use to remove the nut. Be careful not to cross-thread when reinstalling as the threads are fine.

It takes quite a bit of muscle to get it off. Best way I found to tighten/loosen is to put the crank arm against the ground, hold the BB wrench and nut in place with your other hand, and press against the ground, using your body weight to provide the leverage.

Great thanks for confirming and the advice, I'll get that ordered. It's a E13 BB92 bottom bracket, but I won't be touching that, for now....

Posted: Dec 6, 2019 at 7:42 Quote
scz4 wrote:
serveace wrote:
scz4 wrote:
What tool do I need to remove my E13 TRS Race carbon cranks to allow me to replace my chainring. Got a 30T oval to put on to replace my 32.

This one??

https://www.tredz.co.uk/.E-Thirteen-BB-Install-Spider-Removal-Tool_81521.htm?sku=267821&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google_shopping&gclid=CjwKCAiAlajvBRB_EiwA4vAqiBU6YC_XkmHt_ke6zLc1U8Qx4S92c6ytreFgPReCBK6kULJIkE3tjxoCxy4QAvD_BwE

Anything else required?

That's the only special tool. If you have a Shimano BB tool you can use it along with this one. Otherwise, just a regular wrench. It's a bit of a pita to get it to stay in place with as much torque as you have to use to remove the nut. Be careful not to cross-thread when reinstalling as the threads are fine.

It takes quite a bit of muscle to get it off. Best way I found to tighten/loosen is to put the crank arm against the ground, hold the BB wrench and nut in place with your other hand, and press against the ground, using your body weight to provide the leverage.

Great thanks for confirming and the advice, I'll get that ordered. It's a E13 BB92 bottom bracket, but I won't be touching that, for now....

If you're gonna have the cranks out, may as well check on the bearings. I've been through 2 sets already.

I'm assuming you have the newer model of these cranks with the self-extracting bolt. If so, not sure if you've had the cranks out or not, but the self extracting bolt and their p3 interface also takes a lot of muscle, seemingly much more than the sram cranks I had before, so you'll need a stout hex wrench to get it going. First time I reinstalled it took so much effort I thought I was crossthreading. I ended up being pretty liberal with the grease and that seemed to help. I'd take my time to clean everything out, esp the threads on the APS adjuster. They tend to collect a whole lot of grime.

Posted: Dec 6, 2019 at 9:53 Quote
austin915 wrote:
Jda6385 wrote:
Hey guys, I'm having an issue with my e13 dropper post. My seat is starting to swivel a little and when I checked to see if it needed tightened I noticed the whole upper post is loose. My question Is there a way to tighten that up without having to pull the whole thing out? Any info helps thanks

https://support.ethirteen.com/hc/en-us/articles/115001056906
I went back through my email and found the link to the instructions.

Thanks I appreciate the help!

Posted: Dec 6, 2019 at 10:02 Quote
austin915 wrote:
Jda6385 wrote:
Hey guys, I'm having an issue with my e13 dropper post. My seat is starting to swivel a little and when I checked to see if it needed tightened I noticed the whole upper post is loose. My question Is there a way to tighten that up without having to pull the whole thing out? Any info helps thanks
I just went through this with mine and ended up pulling the post out and taking it apart to find the nut on the bottom that takes a shimano cassett tool (i think) was loose on the bottom. Better to fix it now rather than later because i let mine go to far and I ended up having to replace a couple parts. Email E13 warranty and they can get you the instructions you need to take it apart if you havent ever done it. Its super easy if you have the shimano tool. There is also 4 torx bit screws in the bottom that can cause the same issue but that wasnt my problem. Hope this helps

So to clarify, I may only need to tighten the nut that requires the shimano cassette tool? I would definitely like to not have to fully disassemble this thing.

Posted: Dec 6, 2019 at 10:56 Quote
Jda6385 wrote:
austin915 wrote:
Jda6385 wrote:
Hey guys, I'm having an issue with my e13 dropper post. My seat is starting to swivel a little and when I checked to see if it needed tightened I noticed the whole upper post is loose. My question Is there a way to tighten that up without having to pull the whole thing out? Any info helps thanks
I just went through this with mine and ended up pulling the post out and taking it apart to find the nut on the bottom that takes a shimano cassett tool (i think) was loose on the bottom. Better to fix it now rather than later because i let mine go to far and I ended up having to replace a couple parts. Email E13 warranty and they can get you the instructions you need to take it apart if you havent ever done it. Its super easy if you have the shimano tool. There is also 4 torx bit screws in the bottom that can cause the same issue but that wasnt my problem. Hope this helps

So to clarify, I may only need to tighten the nut that requires the shimano cassette tool? I would definitely like to not have to fully disassemble this thing.

You'll likely want a bench vice and soft-jaws or a strap wrench too, if I recall correctly. Helps with getting things torqued instead of trying to hold the post tight in your hand.

Posted: Dec 8, 2019 at 14:43 Quote
chacou wrote:
Jda6385 wrote:
austin915 wrote:

I just went through this with mine and ended up pulling the post out and taking it apart to find the nut on the bottom that takes a shimano cassett tool (i think) was loose on the bottom. Better to fix it now rather than later because i let mine go to far and I ended up having to replace a couple parts. Email E13 warranty and they can get you the instructions you need to take it apart if you havent ever done it. Its super easy if you have the shimano tool. There is also 4 torx bit screws in the bottom that can cause the same issue but that wasnt my problem. Hope this helps

So to clarify, I may only need to tighten the nut that requires the shimano cassette tool? I would definitely like to not have to fully disassemble this thing.

You'll likely want a bench vice and soft-jaws or a strap wrench too, if I recall correctly. Helps with getting things torqued instead of trying to hold the post tight in your hand.

Thats all mine was. Doesnt mean thats all yours will be but if it happened to one, it can happen to another. Its what worked for me. I just had to remove where the cable attaches to the bottom of the post and tighten up the nut that requires a cassette tool

Posted: Dec 9, 2019 at 5:41 Quote
austin915 wrote:
chacou wrote:
Jda6385 wrote:


So to clarify, I may only need to tighten the nut that requires the shimano cassette tool? I would definitely like to not have to fully disassemble this thing.

You'll likely want a bench vice and soft-jaws or a strap wrench too, if I recall correctly. Helps with getting things torqued instead of trying to hold the post tight in your hand.

Thats all mine was. Doesnt mean thats all yours will be but if it happened to one, it can happen to another. Its what worked for me. I just had to remove where the cable attaches to the bottom of the post and tighten up the nut that requires a cassette tool

Thanks for your help! I’m going to have a look at it today.

Posted: Dec 9, 2019 at 9:05 Quote
Jda6385 wrote:
austin915 wrote:
chacou wrote:


You'll likely want a bench vice and soft-jaws or a strap wrench too, if I recall correctly. Helps with getting things torqued instead of trying to hold the post tight in your hand.

Thats all mine was. Doesnt mean thats all yours will be but if it happened to one, it can happen to another. Its what worked for me. I just had to remove where the cable attaches to the bottom of the post and tighten up the nut that requires a cassette tool

Thanks for your help! I’m going to have a look at it today.

1st Try and tighten the 10mm hex under the seat.

Posted: Dec 11, 2019 at 11:59 Quote
asmtb wrote:
Jda6385 wrote:
austin915 wrote:


Thats all mine was. Doesnt mean thats all yours will be but if it happened to one, it can happen to another. Its what worked for me. I just had to remove where the cable attaches to the bottom of the post and tighten up the nut that requires a cassette tool

Thanks for your help! I’m going to have a look at it today.

1st Try and tighten the 10mm hex under the seat.

he said it was the whole upper post rotating. Indicating that it was the upper stantion rotating, not the seat on the stantion.

Posted: Dec 19, 2019 at 19:55 Quote
Well, I pulled the trigger on a Capra 29 CF Pro, so I'll be starting to return my Jeffsy 29 ALC (MK1) to as close to stock as I can in prep for selling the bike.

If you're on an MK1 and thinking about going coil, do it! If you want a great damper and either 550lbs or 500lbs DVO LS spring here is the posting for a 200x57 DVO Jade https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2697208/.

Posted: Jan 2, 2020 at 6:57 Quote
What does everyone think of the Thirstmaster 4000? I currently keep a bottle in my hip pack, but I think I would like to keep my water on the frame instead. Seems expensive but also the best option at the moment.

Posted: Jan 2, 2020 at 12:46 Quote
s-g wrote:
What does everyone think of the Thirstmaster 4000? I currently keep a bottle in my hip pack, but I think I would like to keep my water on the frame instead. Seems expensive but also the best option at the moment.
It's very secured. It's easy to take off put back on the bottle. But, due to location where crank can interfere with it, and tight tolerance between bottle and frame/shock, it's kinda hard to do it while riding. Although, as soon as lined up on the center pin, I can just flick the bottle on the mount and it just snaps back in place. It's best bottle mount I've ever used.

Thirstmaster is enough for me for 1.5 hr ride in cold weather.

Posted: Jan 2, 2020 at 13:03 Quote
Since we are kind of on the subject. I just ordered a DBcoil inline for the jeffsy, does anyone know of any interference issues with a coil shock and the thirstmaster 4000?


 
Copyright © 2000 - 2020. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv65 0.005771
Mobile Version of Website