There's probably a thread about this but I can't find it..
Looking to up my shock/frame travel from 140mm to 150mm since I have up-forked the bike (140mm to 160mm) . What can my frame (and tyre clearance) handle? The existing shock has the ID code: DJB3 which tells me it's a 7.875" x 2.25" (~200x57 mm)
I'm also curious about suggestions of something that matches my new 2021 Fox 36 Grip2 which felt like a big upgrade from the 34 Fit4 (in terms of stiffness and adjustability) I ride mostly trail but I'm doing more and more Enduro/DH stuff as well, hence the fork swap.
Sorry for probably being unclear! When I mentioned tyres I was thinking about the possibility of the tyre hitting the seat/seattube/seatpost if I get a shock with more travel.
I think it might be a bit difficult with mk1 frame to get more travel in any sensible manner, the standard shock sizes don't play that nicely.
With Legacy sizing next one up would be 216x63mm, which could work but that might be too long to fit the frame. The linkage I think doesn't have much more room to extend more from what it does with standard shock on flipchip high position. Technically you could run flipchip on low and use offset bushings, but the shock bolts are 10mm in diameter, so offset bushings won't help much, you can get maybe ~6...8mm "extra space" with flipchip high+offset bushings.
On metric sizing there is 210x55mm, which has less travel than original and next up is 230x65/60mm which is definitely too long for mk1 frame...
So, only shot could be 216x63mm, to see if it could fit, try taking the shock off and measure eye-to-eye distance when the linkage is fully extended, and also what is the distance when your rear tire hits the seat tube, from that you can guesstimate if it could work.
As for shock recommendation, DVO Topaz would be my recommendation if air is preference, or then go coil...
I think it might be a bit difficult with mk1 frame to get more travel in any sensible manner, the standard shock sizes don't play that nicely.
With Legacy sizing next one up would be 216x63mm, which could work but that might be too long to fit the frame. The linkage I think doesn't have much more room to extend more from what it does with standard shock on flipchip high position. Technically you could run flipchip on low and use offset bushings, but the shock bolts are 10mm in diameter, so offset bushings won't help much, you can get maybe ~6...8mm "extra space" with flipchip high+offset bushings.
On metric sizing there is 210x55mm, which has less travel than original and next up is 230x65/60mm which is definitely too long for mk1 frame...
So, only shot could be 216x63mm, to see if it could fit, try taking the shock off and measure eye-to-eye distance when the linkage is fully extended, and also what is the distance when your rear tire hits the seat tube, from that you can guesstimate if it could work.
As for shock recommendation, DVO Topaz would be my recommendation if air is preference, or then go coil...
Awesome Vertti83, this was very helpful!! Curious about what your coil recommendation would be?
Awesome Vertti83, this was very helpful!! Curious about what your coil recommendation would be?
Only real experience I have is a CC DB Coil IL on mk2 Jeffsy, on which I've had two rides now. It certainly moves very eagerly and small bump compliance is very good in normal trail riding, while still providing ample support and not diving. One can notice this eager movement also while pedalling too, it doesn't bob excessively but certainly moves more than the RS Deluxe it replaced. Can't say much about the damping on faster and bigger stuff yet, nor about the adjusters, but I'd expect those to work very well too. The Climb switch also works nicely, subtle but noticeable change.
The DB coil IL is on the lighter end of the coil shock spectrum I'd guess, which might be a bonus, but otherwise I think the basic coil shock offerings from Fox/RS and also DVO should work well. The coil spring itself should work the same way regardless of which shock you get(on Air shocks the air spring and its adjustability varies a lot), so it is the damping side and how many clickers you get that would be the main variable, aside from price and availability. I'd guess a coil shock from any know brand should do the trick...
I´m in trouble with my 2018 Jeffsy CF pro Race as the pedal insert in the carbon crank fell out. I´m already planning for a new bike and planning to keep the jeffsy as a back up bike so I´m a little hesitant to pay the price of a replacement E13 carbon cranks. could you help me with cheaper alternatives? does not have to be carbon. the amount of standards and dimensions are overwhelming and since I live in Iceland ordering the wrong thing will probably result in another month without a bike plus the shipping/import costs every try
I´m in trouble with my 2018 Jeffsy CF pro Race as the pedal insert in the carbon crank fell out. I´m already planning for a new bike and planning to keep the jeffsy as a back up bike so I´m a little hesitant to pay the price of a replacement E13 carbon cranks. could you help me with cheaper alternatives? does not have to be carbon. the amount of standards and dimensions are overwhelming and since I live in Iceland ordering the wrong thing will probably result in another month without a bike plus the shipping/import costs every try
thanks Magnus
Don't buy carbon cranks again. I have the same bike and my cranks failed the same way. Buy a cheaper aluminium ones. You can buy some RF Turbines, or change your BB and upgrade to Shimano ones. I did the former and never looked back.
I´m in trouble with my 2018 Jeffsy CF pro Race as the pedal insert in the carbon crank fell out. I´m already planning for a new bike and planning to keep the jeffsy as a back up bike so I´m a little hesitant to pay the price of a replacement E13 carbon cranks. could you help me with cheaper alternatives? does not have to be carbon. the amount of standards and dimensions are overwhelming and since I live in Iceland ordering the wrong thing will probably result in another month without a bike plus the shipping/import costs every try
thanks Magnus
Don't buy carbon cranks again. I have the same bike and my cranks failed the same way. Buy a cheaper aluminium ones. You can buy some RF Turbines, or change your BB and upgrade to Shimano ones. I did the former and never looked back.
I´m in trouble with my 2018 Jeffsy CF pro Race as the pedal insert in the carbon crank fell out. I´m already planning for a new bike and planning to keep the jeffsy as a back up bike so I´m a little hesitant to pay the price of a replacement E13 carbon cranks. could you help me with cheaper alternatives? does not have to be carbon. the amount of standards and dimensions are overwhelming and since I live in Iceland ordering the wrong thing will probably result in another month without a bike plus the shipping/import costs every try
thanks Magnus
Don't buy carbon cranks again. I have the same bike and my cranks failed the same way. Buy a cheaper aluminium ones. You can buy some RF Turbines, or change your BB and upgrade to Shimano ones. I did the former and never looked back.
Did you get in touch with e13? they're quite accommodating usually
I´m in trouble with my 2018 Jeffsy CF pro Race as the pedal insert in the carbon crank fell out. I´m already planning for a new bike and planning to keep the jeffsy as a back up bike so I´m a little hesitant to pay the price of a replacement E13 carbon cranks. could you help me with cheaper alternatives? does not have to be carbon. the amount of standards and dimensions are overwhelming and since I live in Iceland ordering the wrong thing will probably result in another month without a bike plus the shipping/import costs every try
thanks Magnus
Don't buy carbon cranks again. I have the same bike and my cranks failed the same way. Buy a cheaper aluminium ones. You can buy some RF Turbines, or change your BB and upgrade to Shimano ones. I did the former and never looked back.
Did you get in touch with e13? they're quite accommodating usually
Agreed, their customer service was great. I snapped my trs carbon cranks and they replaced them with LG1 cranks. They also replaced the BB since it failed within the first year. My e13 wheels have been good (aluminum on my jeffsy 27 and carbon on my 29er), so I can't attest to the warranty on either of those, but I assume they'd be similarly accommodating.
Almost to a level of stasis in modifying the whip– done a lot of good stuff that’s been discussed on the forum here. Xxl pro race from 2019 with a -2° angleset, 160mm fork, coil or air shock options for easy swapping. I’d been running coil exclusively for the last couple months from Pisgah to SoCal and it’s been a dream, especially with the lockout on the DHX2 for climbs. Just switched back to the dpx2 this week though, and damn if it’s not a new bike again! Sprightly climbing and boosting off everything in sight. Finding it hard to use full travel while keeping an appropriate sag, but I don’t know that I mind. Seems the dpx2 is notoriously tough to set up for heavier riders. Anyway end rant– these bikes are great!
Almost to a level of stasis in modifying the whip– done a lot of good stuff that’s been discussed on the forum here. Xxl pro race from 2019 with a -2° angleset, 160mm fork, coil or air shock options for easy swapping. I’d been running coil exclusively for the last couple months from Pisgah to SoCal and it’s been a dream, especially with the lockout on the DHX2 for climbs. Just switched back to the dpx2 this week though, and damn if it’s not a new bike again! Sprightly climbing and boosting off everything in sight. Finding it hard to use full travel while keeping an appropriate sag, but I don’t know that I mind. Seems the dpx2 is notoriously tough to set up for heavier riders. Anyway end rant– these bikes are great!
...I thought we couldn't run angle sets in these frames?
Almost to a level of stasis in modifying the whip– done a lot of good stuff that’s been discussed on the forum here. Xxl pro race from 2019 with a -2° angleset, 160mm fork, coil or air shock options for easy swapping. I’d been running coil exclusively for the last couple months from Pisgah to SoCal and it’s been a dream, especially with the lockout on the DHX2 for climbs. Just switched back to the dpx2 this week though, and damn if it’s not a new bike again! Sprightly climbing and boosting off everything in sight. Finding it hard to use full travel while keeping an appropriate sag, but I don’t know that I mind. Seems the dpx2 is notoriously tough to set up for heavier riders. Anyway end rant– these bikes are great!
...I thought we couldn't run angle sets in these frames?
EC44/ZS56 works (pun intended)- think I read something about compatibility being exclusive to the carbon frames 2019 onward
I am thinking about installing 220mm disc brakes on my mk1. Any contraindications? I know the old pike is not supposed to get more than 200mm but what about the frame?
I hope it is a cheap way to improve the guide that are not powerful enough and that have let me down several times after burned hot in long dh.
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