Hi, I'm looking at replacing frame bearings on my 2019 Jeffsy CF Comp. First time doing this job, but I'd like to to it myself and learn the proper technique. Yesterday I've disassembled the main parts to have a look at where the bearing are located, without removing them.
I think I've got decent ideas on how to remove the bearings in the rear part of the chainstay, and those located at the connection between seatstay and linkage. There should be enough space to place a washer behind them, and pull it with with a threaded bolt. In principle it should work.
On the other hand, I've no idea on how to pull the bearings on the main pivot, and on the lower link axle (basically, the two axles that are on the carbon front triangle!). Both of them have distance sleeves within the frame, going from one bearing to the other. Due to the sleeve presence, I guess I cannot put a washer behind the bearing. Any suggestion? What tool did you guy used to pull those bearings out? The sleeves are part numbers 3 and 8 in the tech drawing here below.
On the other hand, I've no idea on how to pull the bearings on the main pivot, and on the lower link axle (basically, the two axles that are on the carbon front triangle!). Both of them have distance sleeves within the frame, going from one bearing to the other. Due to the sleeve presence, I guess I cannot put a washer behind the bearing. Any suggestion? What tool did you guy used to pull those bearings out? The sleeves are part numbers 3 and 8 in the tech drawing here below.
I guess the best way to remove those would be with a proper "Bearing extractor", which is tightened to the inner ring of the bearing with conical bolt, you can then tap the extractor and bearing out from the opposite side.
I'm the owner of a 2020 YT Jeffsy 29 CF Comp (carbon main triangle and aluminium rear). I have a question regarding the frame. The link that has V4L written on it is not symmetrical in relation to the man triangle. On the drive side, the link is much closer to the frame than on the non-drive side. This means that when dirt gets in there, it rubs on the frame and the motion is not smooth anymore. I can untighten the bolt a bit and it gets better but if I tighten it to the specified torque (10-12Nm) it is very close to the frame. What am I missing here? I looked on the interwebs and I saw several pictures with this part, and it looked normal. I'm planning on replacing the bearings this winter and I will try to add a 1mm washer on the bearing and see if this improves the situation. Did any of you encounter this issue? Here's a picture: https://photos.app.goo.gl/b9BJeBX6kkpYAoN29
I'm the owner of a 2020 YT Jeffsy 29 CF Comp (carbon main triangle and aluminium rear). I have a question regarding the frame. The link that has V4L written on it is not symmetrical in relation to the man triangle. On the drive side, the link is much closer to the frame than on the non-drive side. This means that when dirt gets in there, it rubs on the frame and the motion is not smooth anymore. I can untighten the bolt a bit and it gets better but if I tighten it to the specified torque (10-12Nm) it is very close to the frame. What am I missing here? I looked on the interwebs and I saw several pictures with this part, and it looked normal. I'm planning on replacing the bearings this winter and I will try to add a 1mm washer on the bearing and see if this improves the situation. Did any of you encounter this issue? Here's a picture: https://photos.app.goo.gl/b9BJeBX6kkpYAoN29
Looks the same on my frame. I double checked this area when I reassembly frame, it's seems no spacer is missing there. Probably it's caused by self-extracting axle design. Anyway, when you add 1mm spacer it can squeeze bearing too much.
Just made myself a Christmas present and bought a Rockshox superdeluxe coil for my 2019 cf jeffsy (carbon front triangle, aluminum rear). Currently running a Fox DPS.
I've found the specs of the mounting hardware that I'll need: 8x20 and 8x40. Question is, can I re-use the hardware of my current fox, or will I need to buy new ones?
(I know it was already discussed, but I'm struggling with the search in this thread. It's very long and I find it difficult to dig the relevant info)
Found this useful info on Fox website. https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=251#5-pieceflangedbushing
My stock Fox shock had the 5 piece flanged bushing, and I've successfully removed every part from my shox following the instructions. Tomorrow the new Rockshox shock should be arriving, I'll check if the eyelet size is the same, and if it is I'll re-use the same hardware.
According to google, Fox and RS should have the same eyelet size and mounting hardware should be cross-compatible, but better to have a look and confirm ;-)
Edit: fitted the new shock, everything up and running! Each brand mounting hardware is only compatible with same brand bushings. But Fox bushing can be installed on RS shock. (Might be obvious for most of you, but was new stuff for me. Happy to have learned something new in the process!)
Interesting no one responded to this. Did you ever get this figured out OP?
HVrider wrote:
I recently got a
Jeffsy Core 4, I love the bike so far. It did come with a quirk which was the rear wheel being off centre out the box. I bought a new wheel and it’s the same issue. The dish is good. Looking closer it appears the wheel might be sitting at a slight angle. That is to say closer to DS At top half and NDS at bottom half. Can’t anyone tell me if the downtube is off centre / asymmetrical in Jeffsy? Does anyone else have this issue?
Interesting no one responded to this. Did you ever get this figured out OP?
YT eventually replaced the frame under warranty. They said it looked within tolerance so took some back and forth but they came good. I just got the new frame 2 weeks ago (about a 6 month wait). New frame is better but still not perfect, but I can live with it now. I’ve also got to keep the original frame as a spare so that’s a bonus… it’s a great bike, now I’m just enjoying riding it
Interesting. Seems like a new rear triangle would have been the first step. Odd that even the new frame you still see it. Is this the 2023 line? I noticed after I posted that last night that someone posted a similar inquiry just a few pages prior to your post about the non-symmetry of the rear triangle.
HVrider wrote:
cmi85 wrote:
Interesting no one responded to this. Did you ever get this figured out OP?
YT eventually replaced the frame under warranty. They said it looked within tolerance so took some back and forth but they came good. I just got the new frame 2 weeks ago (about a 6 month wait). New frame is better but still not perfect, but I can live with it now. I’ve also got to keep the original frame as a spare so that’s a bonus… it’s a great bike, now I’m just enjoying riding it
Interesting. Seems like a new rear triangle would have been the first step. Odd that even the new frame you still see it. Is this the 2023 line? I noticed after I posted that last night that someone posted a similar inquiry just a few pages prior to your post about the non-symmetry of the rear triangle.
I was also expecting a rear triangle but was pleasantly surprised when they sent a whole frame. I originally bought the bike in July 2022 but the model (Core 4) remains unchanged for 2023. The new frame was apparently just manufactured at the start of the year.
The new frame is about half as bad, still off but not by much. I can’t notice it when riding. I am very OCD with my bikes and to be fair I don’t think everyone would notice - I’m sure there’s plenty of bikes getting around with similar issues. I think given YT’s price point they maybe have a less strict QC protocol or a wider range of acceptable tolerance. This whole bike was the price of a SB150 frame (at least where I am in Aus).
Sorry but I’ve scrolled back a number of pages and can’t see that post, what page it it on?
Interesting. Seems like a new rear triangle would have been the first step. Odd that even the new frame you still see it. Is this the 2023 line? I noticed after I posted that last night that someone posted a similar inquiry just a few pages prior to your post about the non-symmetry of the rear triangle.
I was also expecting a rear triangle but was pleasantly surprised when they sent a whole frame. I originally bought the bike in July 2022 but the model (Core 4) remains unchanged for 2023. The new frame was apparently just manufactured at the start of the year.
The new frame is about half as bad, still off but not by much. I can’t notice it when riding. I am very OCD with my bikes and to be fair I don’t think everyone would notice - I’m sure there’s plenty of bikes getting around with similar issues. I think given YT’s price point they maybe have a less strict QC protocol or a wider range of acceptable tolerance. This whole bike was the price of a SB150 frame (at least where I am in Aus).
Sorry but I’ve scrolled back a number of pages and can’t see that post, what page it it on?
plazzer wrote:
Hey, I noticed some discussion here about rear tire rub. I have 2019 Jeffsy 29 (MK2) in size M. Wheel not have equal gap on chainstays (it`s closer to drivetrain side). On seatstays is not that noticeable, but wheel is close to right side as well. I have tried different wheel and new RD hanger with same result. How about yours, it`s this normal? Thanks folks.
Tire is Rock Razor 2.35" on 25mm inner width rims.
Honest question for all you Jeffsy owners -- what is the weight difference between the aluminum and carbon Jeffsy? Just the frameset alone, no shock. I can't find that info anywhere since YT doesn't sell frameset only.
Anyone with ALU have any damage/weld issues? I'm considering buying used ALU at the moment over carbon just for ease of repainting, but would like to know weight difference.
I've had my aluminium frame for a few years now and it's taken a real beating, had some big crashes, done quite a few uplift days and a trip to Morzine and it's still great, paintwork is battered but can't fault the frame. What's the difference between painting carbon to aluminium?
Post Message
Quote
