Nukeproof tr275 rear suspension

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Nukeproof tr275 rear suspension
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Posted: Jul 9, 2018 at 11:30 Quote
Hi im looking for some advice.
I want to upgrade the rear suspension on my nukeproof tr275 but i have no idea what to look for make wise or size wise lol

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


Posted: Jul 9, 2018 at 12:31 Quote
Size-wise, for any bike:

1. Google bike make, model, year
2. Click on manufacturer's webpage for that bike (and make sure it's the right make, model, and year)
3. Look for a section called "frame details", "technical specifications", or even just "features"
4. Look for a line in that section called "shock length" or "shock size"
5. Purchase whatever shock you want that is exactly that size

In the case of your bike, assuming it's the current model, go to this page:

Scroll down and look for "Features" in yellow on the right. Near the middle of the feature list you get "Shock length: 190mm x 51mm". These numbers refer to the eye-to-eye length of the shock (basically the total length, but measured from the center of one mounting hole to the center of the other mounting hole), and the stroke length of the shock (how much the shock can compress).

On some bikes, it is possible to fool around with shock dimensions to change the way the bike rides. E.g. on your bike, if you found a shock that was 190mm x 41mm (just made up this size), you would retain the same geometry but get less travel. If you found a shock that was 180mm x 51mm (also a made-up size), you might have the same travel, but because the overall shock length is shorter, your bike would be deeper into the frame travel at any point during the shock travel than with the longer shock. This might work, or might be pretty bad when you bottomed out--your tire could hit your seat tube, or parts of your frame could smash into each other, etc. I'll let Nukeproof owners tell you about shock dimension changes that actually work.

Posted: Jul 9, 2018 at 12:35 Quote
Short version: if you buy another shock, make sure it's 190mm x 51mm.

To give you some examples about modifying geometry/suspension kinematics, the Specialized Enduro can be slacked-out a bit by replacing the stock yoke with the slightly shorter Stumpjumper yoke, and by replacing a shock mount bushing with an offset bushing to move the shock around in the mount. This leaves very little clearance between the seatstay bridge and the seat tube at shock bottom-out, though.

For other examples, read any dual slalom bike check and look for people running trail/enduro bikes with reduced travel; these often involve smaller shocks than stock to lower the BB and reduce travel.

Posted: Jul 9, 2018 at 14:11 Quote
Thanks guy that's a great help

Posted: Jul 17, 2018 at 9:14 Quote
Guessing you've got a Monarch R and want to upgrade it - I upgraded to a Monarch RT3 very affordably, which essentially just added lockout and firm modes. Then the shock mount bolt came loose (get some good loctite..) and knackered that in short order.

So I replaced with a Fox DPS EVOL off a 2015 Orange Five, which uses the same shock stroke and length. The midstroke support on this one needed some fettling with in my case, it's difficult to make it responsive and supportive at the same time with the Orange tune. However it's by far the best shock I've fitted to the bike now it's performing, highly recommended if you can find one.

Posted: Jul 29, 2018 at 10:13 Quote
Thank you for the info m8y its much apprechiated

Posted: Jul 29, 2018 at 20:17 Quote
Get a Manitou Mcleod. Cheaper and better than an RT3.

Posted: Jul 29, 2018 at 21:25 Quote
PhillipJ wrote:
Get a Manitou Mcleod. Cheaper and better than an RT3.

Better than 95% of the air shocks on the market. Hands down!

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