This might be a good time to mention an old shop trick. Long handle 8mm with the handle pointing opposite the crank. Lean the bike up against a wall. Put one foot on the pedal and the other on the handle of the 8mm, line the two up relatively level, and jump on them both. It’ll make an awful crack but voila, one loosened crank bolt.
God knows how its possible to get them so tight. I assume locktite. Ive managed to shear the head off my eagle crank bolt tightening it up. 45nm or so isnt that much torque.
Is anyone having these problems after having installed the crankset themselves?
I've removed mine multiple times and never had an issue
You installed the cranks yourself and did not have problems removing them? After removing mine, re-torquing them, and having to remove them once more, I did not have any problems. Maybe they put some loctite on at the factory or over torque them?
Having same issue. So far all the issues have been factory settings. Once you've removed them for the first time they seem to be easier to remove after.
Got mine installed by my LBS a week ago and now I just want to swap the 32 for a 30 chainring. So far, the damn bolt feels like it has been welded to the crank. This is supposed to be better and easier, so frustrating!
Just here to also vent frustration. What a crap design. Does it tighten as one pedals, so I can expect it to be like this anytime I need to service? Or did my shop simply over tighten upon installation?
I dont think it tightens as you pedal. I had to pull my cranks off once after breaking them loose the first time and they were not nearly as tight as the first time. I think once you break the bond of whatever the hell they put on there or however much they over torque, not sure which, they are easy to take off.
This might be a good time to mention an old shop trick. Long handle 8mm with the handle pointing opposite the crank. Lean the bike up against a wall. Put one foot on the pedal and the other on the handle of the 8mm, line the two up relatively level, and jump on them both. It’ll make an awful crack but voila, one loosened crank bolt.
That's how I did the above
Second go with my last 8mm hex key and she broke loose. Same loud bang but this time it wasnt a broken tool.
I bet you would be able to take it to a local car mechanic and see if they can crack it loose, they'd probably do it for free or at the very most a 6 pack of beer. They'll probably have a more durable bit than the one you broke or they will be able to use an impact wrench on it. If I recall correctly someone earlier in this thread contacted Sram and they recommended using an impact wrench.
LBS might be able to help as well but I doubt they would have an impact wrench or the size breaker bar that these damn stubborn cranks require to bust loose!
If I recall correctly someone earlier in this thread contacted Sram and they recommended using an impact wrench.
LBS might be able to help as well but I doubt they would have an impact wrench or the size breaker bar that these damn stubborn cranks require to bust loose!
Funny, I don't see that in SRAMs marketing video for the new DUB cranks when they show all those precision CNC machines and smart engineers and such An impact wrench should never, ever be a tool required to change a chain ring on your 2 month old mountain bike.
Anyway, after a beer and food break I had another 8mm hex socket and got it loose on a second try with a breaker bar and the stand on the pedal trick.
YMMV but I'm not sure I'd want a random auto mechanic wrenching on my bike, they'll get it loose but at what cost.... I don't even like bike shops wrenching on my bike unless I really know them.
Yes, it does mean buying or borrowing a tool most people don't own. I used a long handled ratchet and the frame straightening tool and skinned my knuckles when the bolt gave. Recommend wearing gloves! Subsequent removal has required less force even though bolt has always been torqued correctly. Another PITA design. A mix of Shimano's 2 bolts on the crank arm and Sram's pre-load adjuster would make life a lot easier and allow removal and fitting with a multi-tool.
After my experience (broke loose with a pipe and a buddy helping) I went with the one-up spider thing - allows cog changes without removing cranks. Done with a 4mm Allen key in less than 5 minutes. Not sure about wear on those rings yet...
Had the same problem. All the force I could muster, I was terrified I was going to break something. I tried my impact cordless drill nothing. So, out of desperation, I grabbed my automotive impact driver, and I barely touched the button and it popped free without a problem. It came free so quickly I thought for sure something broke.
I suspect it just took the "impact" part to pop the locktite loose on the threads.