SRAM DUB Crankset removal

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SRAM DUB Crankset removal
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Posted: Apr 8, 2019 at 2:12 Quote
This might be a good time to mention an old shop trick.
Long handle 8mm with the handle pointing opposite the crank. Lean the bike up against a wall. Put one foot on the pedal and the other on the handle of the 8mm, line the two up relatively level, and jump on them both. It’ll make an awful crack but voila, one loosened crank bolt.

Posted: Apr 10, 2019 at 0:44 Quote
God knows how its possible to get them so tight. I assume locktite. Ive managed to shear the head off my eagle crank bolt tightening it up. 45nm or so isnt that much torque.

Posted: Apr 12, 2019 at 10:20 Quote
Is anyone having these problems after having installed the crankset themselves?

I've removed mine multiple times and never had an issue

Posted: Apr 12, 2019 at 14:35 Quote
Mntneer wrote:
Is anyone having these problems after having installed the crankset themselves?

I've removed mine multiple times and never had an issue

You installed the cranks yourself and did not have problems removing them? After removing mine, re-torquing them, and having to remove them once more, I did not have any problems. Maybe they put some loctite on at the factory or over torque them?

Posted: Apr 20, 2019 at 18:39 Quote
Having same issue. So far all the issues have been factory settings. Once you've removed them for the first time they seem to be easier to remove after.

Posted: May 21, 2019 at 8:09 Quote
Got mine installed by my LBS a week ago and now I just want to swap the 32 for a 30 chainring. So far, the damn bolt feels like it has been welded to the crank. This is supposed to be better and easier, so frustrating!

Posted: Jun 9, 2019 at 15:19 Quote
Just here to also vent frustration. What a crap design. Does it tighten as one pedals, so I can expect it to be like this anytime I need to service? Or did my shop simply over tighten upon installation?

Posted: Jun 12, 2019 at 11:45 Quote
I dont think it tightens as you pedal. I had to pull my cranks off once after breaking them loose the first time and they were not nearly as tight as the first time. I think once you break the bond of whatever the hell they put on there or however much they over torque, not sure which, they are easy to take off.

Posted: Jun 27, 2019 at 18:02 Quote
So....


I give up..a 30t will work just fine for now.

Posted: Jun 27, 2019 at 18:19 Quote
samjobson wrote:
This might be a good time to mention an old shop trick.
Long handle 8mm with the handle pointing opposite the crank. Lean the bike up against a wall. Put one foot on the pedal and the other on the handle of the 8mm, line the two up relatively level, and jump on them both. It’ll make an awful crack but voila, one loosened crank bolt.

That's how I did the above Smile

Second go with my last 8mm hex key and she broke loose. Same loud bang but this time it wasnt a broken tool.

Posted: Jun 28, 2019 at 10:57 Quote
cbkoontz wrote:
So....


I give up..a 30t will work just fine for now.

I bet you would be able to take it to a local car mechanic and see if they can crack it loose, they'd probably do it for free or at the very most a 6 pack of beer. They'll probably have a more durable bit than the one you broke or they will be able to use an impact wrench on it. If I recall correctly someone earlier in this thread contacted Sram and they recommended using an impact wrench.

LBS might be able to help as well but I doubt they would have an impact wrench or the size breaker bar that these damn stubborn cranks require to bust loose!

Posted: Jun 28, 2019 at 13:09 Quote
provin1327 wrote:
If I recall correctly someone earlier in this thread contacted Sram and they recommended using an impact wrench.

LBS might be able to help as well but I doubt they would have an impact wrench or the size breaker bar that these damn stubborn cranks require to bust loose!

Funny, I don't see that in SRAMs marketing video for the new DUB cranks when they show all those precision CNC machines and smart engineers and such Smile An impact wrench should never, ever be a tool required to change a chain ring on your 2 month old mountain bike.

Anyway, after a beer and food break I had another 8mm hex socket and got it loose on a second try with a breaker bar and the stand on the pedal trick.

YMMV but I'm not sure I'd want a random auto mechanic wrenching on my bike, they'll get it loose but at what cost.... I don't even like bike shops wrenching on my bike unless I really know them.

Posted: Jul 5, 2019 at 11:38 Quote
Best tip I found on YouTube:

https://youtu.be/2Ia31iRI6Wk

Yes, it does mean buying or borrowing a tool most people don't own. I used a long handled ratchet and the frame straightening tool and skinned my knuckles when the bolt gave. Recommend wearing gloves!
Subsequent removal has required less force even though bolt has always been torqued correctly.
Another PITA design. A mix of Shimano's 2 bolts on the crank arm and Sram's pre-load adjuster would make life a lot easier and allow removal and fitting with a multi-tool.

Posted: Aug 18, 2019 at 22:39 Quote
After my experience (broke loose with a pipe and a buddy helping) I went with the one-up spider thing - allows cog changes without removing cranks. Done with a 4mm Allen key in less than 5 minutes. Not sure about wear on those rings yet...

Posted: Aug 30, 2019 at 14:50 Quote
Had the same problem. All the force I could muster, I was terrified I was going to break something. I tried my impact cordless drill nothing. So, out of desperation, I grabbed my automotive impact driver, and I barely touched the button and it popped free without a problem. It came free so quickly I thought for sure something broke.

I suspect it just took the "impact" part to pop the locktite loose on the threads.


 
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