2018 norco sight c2 160mm travel?

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2018 norco sight c2 160mm travel?
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Posted: Sep 29, 2018 at 2:55 Quote
So I've got a 2018 norco sight c2 29er which is currently running 150mm travel up front compared to the stock 130mm and I was wondering if anyone here has ever stuck a 160mm fork on one?

Posted: Oct 1, 2018 at 13:25 Quote
AdamHamzah wrote:
So I've got a 2018 norco sight c2 29er which is currently running 150mm travel up front compared to the stock 130mm and I was wondering if anyone here has ever stuck a 160mm fork on one?

I have a 2017, 27.5 Sight, so it has 140mm out back and came with a 150mm fork. I swapped out the air shaft in my fork to add 10mm of travel to 160mm, so now I have 140/160... and I'm loving it. I also added wider tires (2.4 and 2.5, stock was 2.3) as I was trying to make a stealth Enduro bike that still kills the mostly all mountain riding I do. It's working out great.

Keep in mind that every 10mm you add to your fork travel it approx slackens your head angle by 0.5 degrees, adds 4mm to your wheelbase, raise your BB by 3mm and alters reach and stack a little.

Sounds like you already moved to a 150mm fork from the stock 140mm? So keep in mind you'd be altering the stock geometry even more.

I used this geometry comparison calculator when I was exploring increasing my fork travel - https://bikegeo.muha.cc/

Also keep in mind that the 2019 bikes all now come stock with forks that have 10mm more travel than the 2018 bikes did... and also coincidentally have head angles that are all 0.5 degrees slacker. I haven't looked deeply enough to discover how they may have altered the other numbers to keep things from getting too out of wack (bb heights etc).

I'd say, you already have a 29r that has been increased to 150mm... you should be good to go and risk f*cking up the ride by going another 10mm. But, in saying that... if it's the Pike that you still have on the front, it's cheap and easy to swap in a 160mm air shaft in and see how it feels. If it sucks or is weird, it's easy to just swap the 150mm air shaft back in.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7WcCIFguChA

Posted: Oct 1, 2018 at 13:41 Quote
islandforlife wrote:
AdamHamzah wrote:
So I've got a 2018 norco sight c2 29er which is currently running 150mm travel up front compared to the stock 130mm and I was wondering if anyone here has ever stuck a 160mm fork on one?

I have a 2017, 27.5 Sight, so it has 140mm out back and came with a 150mm fork. I swapped out the air shaft in my fork to add 10mm of travel to 160mm, so now I have 140/160... and I'm loving it. I also added wider tires (2.4 and 2.5, stock was 2.3) as I was trying to make a stealth Enduro bike that still kills the mostly all mountain riding I do. It's working out great.

Keep in mind that every 10mm you add to your fork travel it slackens your head angle by 0.5 degrees. Sounds like you already moved to a 150mm fork from the stock 140mm? So keep in mind you'd be altering the stock geometry even more... it also alters a few other numbers you may want to take a look at.

I used this geometry comparison calculator when I was exploring increasing my fork travel - https://bikegeo.muha.cc/

Also keep in mind that the 2019 bikes all come stock with forks that have 10mm more travel than the 2018 bikes did... and also coincidentally have head angles that are all 0.5 degrees slacker. I haven't looked deeply enough to discover how they may have altered the other numbers to keep things from getting too out of wack (bb heights etc).

I'd say, you already have a 29r that has been increased to 150mm... you should be good and risk f*cking up the ride by going another 10mm. But, in saying that... if it's a Pike that you still have on the front, it's cheap and easy to swap in a 160mm air shaft and see how it feels. If it sucks, it's easy to just swap the 150mm air shaft back in.

I also swapped out the shock to from a 130mm travel to 140mm that being said would've raised the rear end and I would've counteracted this by swapping out the stock 130mm forks for a pair of 150mm dvo diamonds (said forks are very easy to lower) so I reckon the geometry would be almost the same as stock apart from it being a little higher; That being said I might try the 160mm fork and see how it goes.

Posted: Oct 1, 2018 at 13:52 Quote
wrote:
wrote:

I also swapped out the shock to from a 130mm travel to 140mm that being said would've raised the rear end and I would've counteracted this by swapping out the stock 130mm forks for a pair of 150mm dvo diamonds (said forks are very easy to lower) so I reckon the geometry would be almost the same as stock apart from it being a little higher; That being said I might try the 160mm fork and see how it goes.

Huh, you swapped out the shock as well!? Just curious because I had kind of been curiously exploring doing the same thing. What eye to eye and/or stroke did you move from and to? Any issue with the additional travel? Rubbing and full travel??

And ya, I don't know how that would alter things... but you're probably right and you may have cancelled out any of the first changes... so then going to 160mm would change be a small change and totally do-able. Then you've got yourself a pretty killer bike.

Posted: Oct 4, 2018 at 0:02 Quote
wrote:
wrote:
islandforlife wrote:

I also swapped out the shock to from a 130mm travel to 140mm that being said would've raised the rear end and I would've counteracted this by swapping out the stock 130mm forks for a pair of 150mm dvo diamonds (said forks are very easy to lower) so I reckon the geometry would be almost the same as stock apart from it being a little higher; That being said I might try the 160mm fork and see how it goes.

Huh, you swapped out the shock as well!? Just curious because I had kind of been curiously exploring doing the same thing. What eye to eye and/or stroke did you move from and to? Any issue with the additional travel? Rubbing and full travel??

And ya, I don't know how that would alter things... but you're probably right and you may have cancelled out any of the first changes... so then going to 160mm would change be a small change and totally do-able. Then you've got yourself a pretty killer bike.


I changed from a 185 eye to eye length shock to a 200 eye to eye shock and I haven't noticed much of a difference, only real issues I've faced with swapping shock was with the shock I had chosen I chose to use a dvo topaz t3 a shock which was not trunnion mount, so to counteract this I took the hardware, drilled the inner hole to 8.5mm and tapped it with a m8x1.0 tap (the size of the original trunnion mount bolts to preserve the looks) and the shock fit only I didn't consider the clearance between the frame and the piggyback reserve of which was about 3mm from contacting; that being said it was so worth it only problem was making the shock work and the clearance.

Posted: Jul 22, 2019 at 20:34 Quote
Hey mate, how is your rear shock going? Could you go a 205x60? Swap out a range shock into the sight?

Posted: Jul 29, 2019 at 20:32 Quote
I’m really interested in what you’re up to here. I’ve got a 2017 c91 and I want to add a 160 on the front

Posted: Jan 28, 2020 at 13:25 Quote
160mm up front feels great! Definitely notice on the trail more twitchy but going down hill it’s awesome!

Posted: Jan 29, 2020 at 10:55 Quote
Mrwade wrote:
160mm up front feels great! Definitely notice on the trail more twitchy but going down hill it’s awesome!
That was the one thing I hated about it, too damn twitchy.
I actually ended up cracking that frame... Not sure if it was because of my changes but I managed to crack a 5month old frame.
I personally wouldn't do it again, maybe up to 150 but definitely not 160.

Posted: Feb 1, 2020 at 23:53 Quote
Did you get warranty? And where did it crack??

Posted: Feb 1, 2020 at 23:55 Quote
What about putting a 27.5 rear wheel on as well?? Mullet?

Posted: Feb 2, 2020 at 22:58 Quote
Mrwade wrote:
Did you get warranty? And where did it crack??
Seat stays, you see it in one of my other posts. I did have to cheat warrenty a touch, I borrowed my mates sight and swapped over the shock and fork to make it "normal" and nabbed a free chainstay off of them. Trying for warrenty with those sorta modifications would've been voided.

Posted: Feb 2, 2020 at 23:01 Quote
Mrwade wrote:
What about putting a 27.5 rear wheel on as well?? Mullet?
I tryed that out once and it was fun af, wish I kept it but it made the bike so goddamn twitchy. I reckon if you lowered the fork down to 140 or 150 and stuck with the stock shock (how it comes from the factory) it would negotiate the super low bb and aggressive headangle.
Consider 27.5+... I ran my sight with it along side of my other modifications and it was bloody amazing.

Posted: Feb 2, 2020 at 23:35 Quote
islandforlife wrote:
Keep in mind that every 10mm you add to your fork travel it approx slackens your head angle by 0.5 degrees, adds 4mm to your wheelbase, raise your BB by 3mm and alters reach and stack a little.

These are the changes to static (unweighted) geometry. At full compression, the geometry is the same as with a shorter fork, assuming the same model, since the crown and lowers are the same. The average change in geometry is somewhere between the static change and no change.

Posted: Feb 4, 2020 at 10:28 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
islandforlife wrote:
Keep in mind that every 10mm you add to your fork travel it approx slackens your head angle by 0.5 degrees, adds 4mm to your wheelbase, raise your BB by 3mm and alters reach and stack a little.

These are the changes to static (unweighted) geometry. At full compression, the geometry is the same as with a shorter fork, assuming the same model, since the crown and lowers are the same. The average change in geometry is somewhere between the static change and no change.

^ What he said. I follow that same sorta concept when doing my modifications.

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