Ah, I see. I trust my numbers more. Dan does the same thing I do - and what every suspension engineer does when modeling our competitors' products: we find good photos or tech drawings of frames and click on the points in Linkage. Pretty straightforward.
I go farther than most:
• I usually do about two to five iterations for each bike, using different photos, if I don't fully trust a photo. • I try to compensate for photo distortion by triangulating the central plane of the bike.
I've calibrated my methods: if I were to use just one good photo, as most people do, the error is maybe 5% - 15% for a Horst link bike and vastly more with a twin-short-link bike, especially a dw*link. With a few iterations and careful calibration, the magnitude of my error is cut by about 75%.
To cite numbers to two significant figures using these methods is pretentious nonsense. Even the actual bike, built from the actual CAD files, may not be accurate to two significant figures due to manufacturing tolerances on the frame and components!
How's everyone liking the stock Fox Rhythm? Gotta say I'm not really a fan, feels over damped and gives a choppy ride.
Considering swapping out for Lyrik...
Felt terrible in stock form with 3 tokens in my opinion. Took them out and cleaned all the excessive gunk from the negative air spring and now I like it. Seems plusher off the top with no tokens and about 10psi higher than recommended. About 15% sag. No complaints on performance since mods.
LR from 3.0 to 2.65 would yield 11.7% (if my maths are correct)
If we scrutinize Antonio's chart, it's closer to 2.98 to 2.66, resulting in 12% - which is, again, just Antonio's model, created by clicking points on a photo. My number is slightly different, but we're all in the same range.
You could download the free version of the software and generate your own number in under five minutes. You could go a step further by taking about an hour to do a few iterations and some triangulation, as I've done. It's not terribly difficult.
The two main observations:
1. The Stumpjumper Evo 29 has a mildly progressive motion ratio curve. 2. Don't be overly trusting of numbers on the internet or of "experts" whose work can be replicated in a few minutes!
How's everyone liking the stock Fox Rhythm? Gotta say I'm not really a fan, feels over damped and gives a choppy ride.
Considering swapping out for Lyrik...
Felt terrible in stock form with 3 tokens in my opinion. Took them out and cleaned all the excessive gunk from the negative air spring and now I like it. Seems plusher off the top with no tokens and about 10psi higher than recommended. About 15% sag. No complaints on performance since mods.
A lyrik is definitely better though
I've cleaned up the air spring too, mine was the same, half a kilo of excess grease. I've also removed 2 of the 3 tokens, I'll try removing the last one and give that a go (and up the pressure a little to balance).
I also recently installed SKF low friction wipers, made no discernable difference.
I also recently installed SKF low friction wipers, made no discernable difference.
Everything helps, of course, but wiper friction is a tiny fraction of the total friction when it matters - i.e. when the fork is subject to large bending moments.
How's everyone liking the stock Fox Rhythm? Gotta say I'm not really a fan, feels over damped and gives a choppy ride.
Considering swapping out for Lyrik...
Felt terrible in stock form with 3 tokens in my opinion. Took them out and cleaned all the excessive gunk from the negative air spring and now I like it. Seems plusher off the top with no tokens and about 10psi higher than recommended. About 15% sag. No complaints on performance since mods.
A lyrik is definitely better though
I've cleaned up the air spring too, mine was the same, half a kilo of excess grease. I've also removed 2 of the 3 tokens, I'll try removing the last one and give that a go (and up the pressure a little to balance).
I also recently installed SKF low friction wipers, made no discernable difference.
Interested to hear what you think of the change. I haven't used the fork with tokens since installing a new air shaft with less grease. I read on mtbr that 3 purple tokens was supposed to be the sweet spot on this fork but when I tried it previously it felt ever too wallowing with lower 30% pressure and too stiff otherwise.
Ah, I see. I trust my numbers more. Dan does the same thing I do - and what every suspension engineer does when modeling our competitors' products: we find good photos or tech drawings of frames and click on the points in Linkage. Pretty straightforward.
If this is how all the bikes in the series have been analyzed, then I take back what I said about the reliability of the numbers in the articles. I still don't fully agree with some of the interpretations, but at least the raw data ought to be top notch.
Any one know if its the same mod 52.5 to 55 on the standard stumpy fox performance DPS shock? Looked for a vid/how to for removal,,,is it easy enough to do? (explain like i'm 5 :-)
The only shock I hear that has interference issues is the Fox X2 on the alloy frames. It does fit the carbon frame. Other than that - all the big players fit.
What I'm finding works the best for the Evo is what I'm calling "big air". An air shock with a big air can. The X2 works really good too, but again just for cf frames.
I'm told a coil with Cane Creek's progressive Valt coil works really good, but I haven't tried it myself.
If you feel like searching and reading, there is a lot of good information here: