It looks alot better with the Maverick fork. But I do suspect that it rides a bit better with the Marzocchi?
I agree, the bike looks a lot better with the maverick fork...problem with it ois that it never felt balanced with the softness of the dhs shock in the rear. It was like driving a hard stiff front end car that had soft rear shocks, didn't feel right.
So the super t feels matched in terms of the type of suspension...besides, the maverick forks are really finicky...and their damping is very basic - it feels basic too.
That being said, I'd like to try a manitou dorado sc if I ever came across one.
It looks alot better with the Maverick fork. But I do suspect that it rides a bit better with the Marzocchi?
I agree, the bike looks a lot better with the maverick fork...problem with it ois that it never felt balanced with the softness of the dhs shock in the rear. It was like driving a hard stiff front end car that had soft rear shocks, didn't feel right.
So the super t feels matched in terms of the type of suspension...besides, the maverick forks are really finicky...and their damping is very basic - it feels basic too.
That being said, I'd like to try a manitou dorado sc if I ever came across one.
I hear you. Ah, Manitou dorados are nice forks, but the Dorado SC is almost as rear as hens teeth. They were tough to get a hold of when they were manufactured, now, about 10 years later... well, hens teeth and all that.
If I had a minilink I would not mind a Fox 36 Van on it. Could be a nice setup!
Must be around 43lb I think, it was 44.1lb before I put the tubeless Havoc wheels on. It had 321's on Biguns with heavy tubes when i weighed it then so it may even be lighter than that, I'll check soon
Must be around 43lb I think, it was 44.1lb before I put the tubeless Havoc wheels on. It had 321's on Biguns with heavy tubes when i weighed it then so it may even be lighter than that, I'll check soon
That's actually not bad for a Brooklyn.
deadmeat25 wrote:
Thanks man
Have to say though i am seriously considering throwing some cutting, grinding and welding at this bike
You mean, remaking the frame with lighter tubes? Maybe update the angles a bit? ...I'd love to see it.
Ha ha, not quite remake the frame But cut off the the top shock mount and and weld on a new one giving 2 degrees of slackery, then chop off the the BB shell and mount it lower and further back
The thing is with a wheelbase this long, (normal by todays standards) the numbers are there! You just have to weld them into place
Ha ha, not quite remake the frame But cut off the the top shock mount and and weld on a new one giving 2 degrees of slackery, then chop off the the BB shell and mount it lower and further back
The thing is with a wheelbase this long, (normal by todays standards) the numbers are there! You just have to weld them into place
I see, that may be the easiest way to do it concerning slackery; maybe not so easy with the bottom bracket but definitely doable. I'll be watching you sir just in case you get the courage to knife on that sexy bike.
I on the other hand am in the talks on having someone refit a 44mm headtube on my SR8, maybe also to slacken it a bit while they're at it. I wonder if anyone else has done this on a link?
Making new dog bone links to achieve the same would be easier. Same net problem of long chain stays though :-( Angle set and offset Bushes easier still. Get you a couple of degress slacker, poofteenth lower.
Making new dog bones is definitely not easier than welding on a new shock mount, or as cheap!
I already have a Works Components 1' angled headset in it
Also, the Avy shock uses 11.1mm bushes, the maximum offset you'll ever get with them is 1mm, so 2mm drop with one at each end, that will amount to less half a degree...... For £40..... But i'll probably still get some
The bottom line is i think it's all well and good lowering it and achieving a more favourable HA, but then the BB has swung forward somewhat too. The problem is both massive and ever increasing chain stay length (18 inches static!) but just as importantly, the reach, moving the BB shell will enable me to lower the COG, shorten the stays AND increase the reach, this is for me the most important thing
The result would be a 63.5' head angle, 47" wheelbase and i can put the BB wherever i blooming well like like 16" stays and 13" BB height, and the reach of a large sized bike
Realistically the BB position would be dictated by the left hand chain length, which in turn is determined by the size of chain ring used, as it is currently with the eccentric BB shell. 1, 3 and 5 o'clock positions are available by using 28T, 27T and 26T respectively, I'm running a 26T sprocket to achieve the lowest BB height, but now my gearing is a little too low, so i'd aim at using for instance a 30T ring, add a link, or a link and a half, or half a link, or whatever, set it in the 1 o'clock position at around 13.75" BB height. The final stay length and exact BB height will be the optimum attainable position with a given chain length and sprocket size pivoting around the jack shaft. Once in position, i would still have 3/4 of an inch to play with smaller sprockets to lower it further using the eccentric BB shell whilst still having usable gearing,
Making new dog bones is definitely not easier than welding on a new shock mount, or as cheap!
I already have a Works Components 1' angled headset in it
Also, the Avy shock uses 11.1mm bushes, the maximum offset you'll ever get with them is 1mm, so 2mm drop with one at each end, that will amount to less half a degree...... For £40..... But i'll probably still get some
The bottom line is i think it's all well and good lowering it and achieving a more favourable HA, but then the BB has swung forward somewhat too. The problem is both massive and ever increasing chain stay length (18 inches static!) but just as importantly, the reach, moving the BB shell will enable me to lower the COG, shorten the stays AND increase the reach, this is for me the most important thing
The result would be a 63.5' head angle, 47" wheelbase and i can put the BB wherever i blooming well like like 16" stays and 13" BB height, and the reach of a large sized bike
Realistically the BB position would be dictated by the left hand chain length, which in turn is determined by the size of chain ring used, as it is currently with the eccentric BB shell. 1, 3 and 5 o'clock positions are available by using 28T, 27T and 26T respectively, I'm running a 26T sprocket to achieve the lowest BB height, but now my gearing is a little too low, so i'd aim at using for instance a 30T ring, add a link, or a link and a half, or half a link, or whatever, set it in the 1 o'clock position at around 13.75" BB height. The final stay length and exact BB height will be the optimum attainable position with a given chain length and sprocket size pivoting around the jack shaft. Once in position, i would still have 3/4 of an inch to play with smaller sprockets to lower it further using the eccentric BB shell whilst still having usable gearing,
TAKE THAT SAW TO YOUR NECK !!!!!!!! its an endangered species goddammit!!