Fox dpx2 service

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
Fox dpx2 service
Author Message
flag ZSW
O+
Posted: Nov 21, 2020 at 11:51 Quote
@daguvena

Yes you’re absolutely right. You remove the pellet and pellet retainer. Basically it’s just a schrader valve that threads into where the pellet retainer was. You want the 5/16-24 one.
flag thelibrarybiker
Posted: Dec 8, 2020 at 22:55 Quote
Followed the advice of people in this thread and got a friend's blown up dpx2 rolling again---thanks for the great thread

I used Maxima 3wt synthetic oil. I think this is a little too thin because the rider was around only 2-4 clicks out on rebound at around 225psi. I will probably try a mix of maxima 10wt and the 3wt next time.

photo

On the schmitty racing 5/16-24 ORB valves you'll need cut down the hex so the dust cover can fit over it. Would be really easy if you have a lathe otherwise a file works just fine

photo

photo

Also if anyone is curious, a size small Ibis ripmo v1 dpx2 comes with the following main piston valving codes and 1 negative volume spacer.

photo

photo

What is everyone's opinion on the negative volume spacers in this shock? AFAIK they are there to make sure heavier riders don't need to exceed max psi limit to get 30% sag. So is there any reason to not remove them if you're well under the psi limit?
flag ZSW
O+
Posted: Dec 11, 2020 at 14:36 Quote
I’d remove the spacer and try it. I’m not a big fan of those. Rocky Mountain sends two in all the shocks on their bikes and we usually remove at least one. More volume will let the negative spring work further into the travel. The only disadvantage would be if you bottom out too easily or if the bike kind of wallows in the middle of travel.
flag Snowrydr01
Posted: Jul 8, 2021 at 12:08 Quote
its old but a cool rebuild. saving for the shrader adapter
flag MS-Edits
Posted: Jul 10, 2021 at 18:22 Quote
My Fox DPX2 is leaking out of the pellet retainer?
Bottom screw by the thru axle. Why is that happening and are there any videos on how to fix that? I bought a seal kit to rebuild the shock but I’m not sure that part or seal is in the kit.
flag lance-h
O+ FL
Posted: Jul 10, 2021 at 18:25 Quote
I will bet that the 4mm hex under the plastic pellet it loose. You can pick it out and snug up the 4mm as long as too much out hasn’t came out already. If the oil is too low you will need to do a bleed of the shock and reset the IFP height and charge it after.
flag MS-Edits
Posted: Jul 10, 2021 at 18:35 Quote
lance-h wrote:
I will bet that the 4mm hex under the plastic pellet it loose. You can pick it out and snug up the 4mm as long as too much out hasn’t came out already. If the oil is too low you will need to do a bleed of the shock and reset the IFP height and charge it after.

That worked! I will have to see how much fluid I lost but I’m going to rebuild anyways as soon as the seal kit arrives. Thank you!!
flag 120CCPM
O+
Posted: Sep 17, 2021 at 16:13 Quote
Out of curiosity, if you install the Schrader valve adapter on the nitrogen reservoir, are you supposed to put a pellet in the end cap assembly?

photo
flag thelibrarybiker
Posted: Sep 18, 2021 at 7:01 Quote
120CCPM wrote:
Out of curiosity, if you install the Schrader valve adapter on the nitrogen reservoir, are you supposed to put a pellet in the end cap assembly?

photo

I didn't put the pellet in on my rebuild because the Schrader valve and o-ring are what seals the shock if you install the adapter
flag ZSW
O+
Posted: Sep 18, 2021 at 7:15 Quote
120CCPM wrote:
Out of curiosity, if you install the Schrader valve adapter on the nitrogen reservoir, are you supposed to put a pellet in the end cap assembly?

photo


You don’t need the pellet. If you do want to use it you need to drill a small hole through it. I did this one time to help seal around the valve and another time I just used an o ring I had but really I think it’s optional, the valve should seal up without it
flag 120CCPM
O+
Posted: Sep 27, 2021 at 13:09 Quote
ZSW wrote:
You don’t need the pellet. If you do want to use it you need to drill a small hole through it. I did this one time to help seal around the valve and another time I just used an o ring I had but really I think it’s optional, the valve should seal up without it

thelibrarybiker wrote:
I didn't put the pellet in on my rebuild because the Schrader valve and o-ring are what seals the shock if you install the adapter

Thank you both... seemed logical, but I wanted to be sure.
flag thelibrarybiker
Posted: Nov 19, 2021 at 18:59 Quote
vermontskier78 wrote:
would

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-CM3461-Auxiliary-Air-Valve/dp/B000C5BJFS

also work? I've seen other posts about this part on fox shocks

Needs to be 5/16-24 ORB those look like Npt threads
flag P-I-Engineer
Posted: Jun 6, 2022 at 9:16 Quote
thank you so much for the link to the schmidty racing valve.

my lower damper screw loosened, i lost all air/oil. I called around to get it fixed and people are booked till mid july.

i did a rebleed myself then tried to reuse the old puck, did not work.

the schmidty valve needs the 5/16 side ground down a bit or else it'll bottom out before the o-ring contacts. Instead i drilled a hole through the old rubber puck. Screwed in the valve enough to be able to pressurize the IFP and the tightened the valve snug. Now it's essentially double sealed.

hardest part of this whole thing was getting those stupid delrin pellets out. I ended using my soldering iron to melt out the pellet.

photo
photo
flag ZSW
O+
Posted: Jun 7, 2022 at 8:22 Quote
P-I-Engineer wrote:

hardest part of this whole thing was getting those stupid delrin pellets out. I ended using my soldering iron to melt out the pellet.

photo
photo


They are really hard to remove. I’ve started just drilling a hole into them at an angle then using a pick to pop them out.

 


Copyright © 2000 - 2024. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv42 0.024533
Mobile Version of Website