Santa Cruz Tallboy C R+ 2018 - Looking for upgrades to parts suggestions.

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Santa Cruz Tallboy C R+ 2018 - Looking for upgrades to parts suggestions.
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flag Thisdale
Posted: May 12, 2019 at 7:19 Quote
Greetings everyone.

I own the Tallboy 2018 in Carbon R+ (stock).
I love the bike and will continue running this bike for quite a while. I have about 500km on the bike and tires.

I'm looking for recommendation for part upgrades.
Would a rear shock upgrade be beneficial?

(Here are the stock specs i am running: https://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Bikes,3/Santa-Cruz/Tallboy-Carbon-C-R,19641)

Thank you guys!

photo
flag seanondemand
Posted: May 12, 2019 at 7:50 Quote
You could look at a shock but I find that a shock upgrade is pretty subtle, so I'd save up for wheels. The rims aren't bad but the hubs are pretty slow engaging, and nothing makes a more noticeable difference than a lighter wheel. Right now I'm a fan of the RF wheelsets - I just set up a guy with a carbon Next R31 wheelset, MSRP on those is 2k CAD, which is pretty darn reasonable and has a 2 year no questions asked replacement policy. Or if you want alloy the Turbine wheels are a nice option. The hubs are rad. Could also think about brakes, those Level Ts aren't super great, and brakes are one of the most cost-effective upgrades out there. I'm a Shimano XT brake guy, Maguras are an interesting option too.
flag Thisdale
Posted: May 12, 2019 at 15:21 Quote
seanondemand wrote:
You could look at a shock but I find that a shock upgrade is pretty subtle, so I'd save up for wheels. The rims aren't bad but the hubs are pretty slow engaging, and nothing makes a more noticeable difference than a lighter wheel. Right now I'm a fan of the RF wheelsets - I just set up a guy with a carbon Next R31 wheelset, MSRP on those is 2k CAD, which is pretty darn reasonable and has a 2 year no questions asked replacement policy. Or if you want alloy the Turbine wheels are a nice option. The hubs are rad. Could also think about brakes, those Level Ts aren't super great, and brakes are one of the most cost-effective upgrades out there. I'm a Shimano XT brake guy, Maguras are an interesting option too.


Thanks for your advice Sean; exactly the kind of recomms i'm looking for.

Question concerning wheels; what do you think of the Santa Cruz Reserve wheels (instead/compared to the RF R31 you mentioned?).

Also, i really like the way my LevelT brakes "behave" (progressive, not heavy lock-up like Shimano seems to be famous for). What would you recommend in that type of feel? Are the Maguras still a good recomm?

Thanks for your time!
flag seanondemand
Posted: May 12, 2019 at 17:00 Quote
Reserve wheels are quite nice too, but you’ll be paying at least a few hundred bucks more, depending on your hub choice, and I'm not quite sure I see the added value there. If you like the feel of your levels, you could look at a different SRAM brake like Guide RS, or if you want a lot of power, Code R. Even Level TLs.
flag gmoss
Posted: May 13, 2019 at 9:26 Quote
Idk if they ship to Canada, but you can get a custom wheelset built by Colorado Cyclist and save a bunch, like a pair for $800 or so. I like the Industry Nine hibs paired to Stans Flow wheels. One of the best upgrades is better wheels. The Level brakes kind of suck compared to XT brakes and Icetech rotors. I have some pics of my CC 18 on my profile. I built mine from the frame, but did own a 17 5010 R build so familiar with what you have.

Haha, I even run the same grips as you. Btw, the Turquiose I9 hubs accent that color scheme really well. Wink
flag Thisdale
Posted: May 14, 2019 at 5:46 Quote
Hey guys,

Thank you again for the information; quite invaluable for me at this stage.

@seanondemand I was just looking at the Sram Guide RS as you suggested, that might be a very good option for me. Last weekend while riding I paid close attention to my braking power/control and the Level just lacks a bit of everything. I don't want to lock, as much as I want way more power "before" the lock. I noticed that I trail-brake a lot as I do in car racing. Could Code better for me? I'm also thinking of only upgrading my rear brake as in trails I rarely touch the front.


As for wheels, the Industry Nine is great, but it's about twice the price as Santa Cruz Reserve (as far I as know).
On that subject, I am a bit confused about what the hub does (multiple choices); is i9 (faster) really better for the average rider? (i don't do competition/enduro stuff) I just ride a lot.

@gmoss Oury Grips for live brother. Since I'm 15 years old. Nothing else has touched my bikes ;P
flag seanondemand
Posted: May 14, 2019 at 8:10 Quote
You should have a look around at some tutorials on good braking technique - most of your power should come from the front, not the rear. If you look at a Magura set of brakes, like MT Trail, that's why they package it with a more powerful 4-piston front brake, and 2-piston rear. Codes have a lot of power and bite, which is why OEs put them on enduro/downhill bikes. If you're a heavier guy and you're feeling like your current brakes are really underpowered, maybe Codes will work, but Guides are a bit more balanced in terms of power vs modulation.
flag gmoss
Posted: May 14, 2019 at 8:45 Quote
Thisdale wrote:
Hey guys,

Thank you again for the information; quite invaluable for me at this stage.

@seanondemand I was just looking at the Sram Guide RS as you suggested, that might be a very good option for me. Last weekend while riding I paid close attention to my braking power/control and the Level just lacks a bit of everything. I don't want to lock, as much as I want way more power "before" the lock. I noticed that I trail-brake a lot as I do in car racing. Could Code better for me? I'm also thinking of only upgrading my rear brake as in trails I rarely touch the front.


As for wheels, the Industry Nine is great, but it's about twice the price as Santa Cruz Reserve (as far I as know).
On that subject, I am a bit confused about what the hub does (multiple choices); is i9 (faster) really better for the average rider? (i don't do competition/enduro stuff) I just ride a lot.

@gmoss Oury Grips for live brother. Since I'm 15 years old. Nothing else has touched my bikes ;P

I don't see how I9's would be more than a set of carbon wheels. I had mine built for a little over $800 thru Colorado Cyclist. Hubs like Industry Nine have a very tight engagement so pedal drop is nearly eliminated. IOW, when you need to apply power, the hub engages instead of the crank rotating 2-3" before engaging.

2018 SC Tallboy

But yeah, Oury since early 2000's when I started riding mtn bikes. Wink

For braking, moving to resin pads with the Icetech Shimano rotors gave me the ability to really modulate, brake hard without instant lock up.
flag gmoss
Posted: May 14, 2019 at 8:47 Quote
seanondemand wrote:
You should have a look around at some tutorials on good braking technique - most of your power should come from the front, not the rear. If you look at a Magura set of brakes, like MT Trail, that's why they package it with a more powerful 4-piston front brake, and 2-piston rear. Codes have a lot of power and bite, which is why OEs put them on enduro/downhill bikes. If you're a heavier guy and you're feeling like your current brakes are really underpowered, maybe Codes will work, but Guides are a bit more balanced in terms of power vs modulation.

My new bike came with Code 4 pot brakes. I sold them with the TB shown. I did not think they grabbed as well as my XT's set up as I mentioned. Course, I did not run them much at all and not under hard braking. They may have done better once bedded in.
flag Thisdale
Posted: May 14, 2019 at 9:40 Quote
seanondemand wrote:
You should have a look around at some tutorials on good braking technique - most of your power should come from the front, not the rear. If you look at a Magura set of brakes, like MT Trail, that's why they package it with a more powerful 4-piston front brake, and 2-piston rear. Codes have a lot of power and bite, which is why OEs put them on enduro/downhill bikes. If you're a heavier guy and you're feeling like your current brakes are really underpowered, maybe Codes will work, but Guides are a bit more balanced in terms of power vs modulation.

Yeah don't read too much in my braking habits, worry not, i'm not a beginner. I use the front brake, and my Level work find for the need. The rear is the biggest issue; which doesn't give me nearly enough control or power. Hence the interest in your suggestion to upgrade.

I'm really wondering if Code or Guide will be best. I'll talk to my local mechanics/dealer about it.
flag gmoss
Posted: May 14, 2019 at 9:43 Quote
Look into resin vs sintered pads too.
flag Thisdale
Posted: May 14, 2019 at 10:54 Quote
gmoss wrote:

I don't see how I9's would be more than a set of carbon wheels. I had mine built for a little over $800 thru Colorado Cyclist. Hubs like Industry Nine have a very tight engagement so pedal drop is nearly eliminated. IOW, when you need to apply power, the hub engages instead of the crank rotating 2-3" before engaging.


Well, I need Back Country 360c (650b) from I9. And a pair seems to come up to 2600$USD from their website. So a long shot from 800$.
What model are you running exactly? (based on the picture)
flag seanondemand
Posted: May 14, 2019 at 12:08 Quote
gmoss wrote:
I don't see how I9's would be more than a set of carbon wheels. I had mine built for a little over $800 thru Colorado Cyclist. Hubs like Industry Nine have a very tight engagement so pedal drop is nearly eliminated. IOW, when you need to apply power, the hub engages instead of the crank rotating 2-3" before engaging.

But yeah, Oury since early 2000's when I started riding mtn bikes. Wink

For braking, moving to resin pads with the Icetech Shimano rotors gave me the ability to really modulate, brake hard without instant lock up.
They're very expensive in Canada, and the RF wheels I mentioned also run 3 degree engagement so they're really great and well priced here (being Canadian)

I'm a big fan of the XTs too. Best bang-for-your-buck in braking IMO
flag Thisdale
Posted: May 14, 2019 at 12:57 Quote
seanondemand wrote:
gmoss wrote:
I don't see how I9's would be more than a set of carbon wheels. I had mine built for a little over $800 thru Colorado Cyclist. Hubs like Industry Nine have a very tight engagement so pedal drop is nearly eliminated. IOW, when you need to apply power, the hub engages instead of the crank rotating 2-3" before engaging.

But yeah, Oury since early 2000's when I started riding mtn bikes. Wink

For braking, moving to resin pads with the Icetech Shimano rotors gave me the ability to really modulate, brake hard without instant lock up.
They're very expensive in Canada, and the RF wheels I mentioned also run 3 degree engagement so they're really great and well priced here (being Canadian)

I'm a big fan of the XTs too. Best bang-for-your-buck in braking IMO

So essentially these:
https://www.raceface.com/products/details/next-r-wheel

Also, i understand the XT thing, i just don't like Shimano. I used to run them and much prefer Sram for the feel.
flag gmoss
Posted: May 14, 2019 at 14:18 Quote
Thisdale wrote:
gmoss wrote:

I don't see how I9's would be more than a set of carbon wheels. I had mine built for a little over $800 thru Colorado Cyclist. Hubs like Industry Nine have a very tight engagement so pedal drop is nearly eliminated. IOW, when you need to apply power, the hub engages instead of the crank rotating 2-3" before engaging.


Well, I need Back Country 360c (650b) from I9. And a pair seems to come up to 2600$USD from their website. So a long shot from 800$.
What model are you running exactly? (based on the picture)

So, you "need" carbon rims? I guess I don't follow, which is no biggie. I am running alum rims, Stans Flow. If you want carbon rims, well yes, that changes the game. I found that I could have a set of strong wheels built a lot cheaper than buying directly from I9, carbon or otherwise.

My wheelset is I9 Torch hubs built with DT Swiss Competition 2.0/1.8 spokes, brass nipples, 32 spoke count.
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