2017 nomad feels like a slug in trails.. help!!

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2017 nomad feels like a slug in trails.. help!!
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Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 16:11 Quote
I need suspension help or need to know if I just need a different bike. I love my nomad and have put a lot of money in it, it smashes jumps and trails that’s have a decent descent. Having said that I feel that the brakes are on trying to climb when I ride with other rider I feel like my pedal strokes do not propel me near like others... hope that makes sense.

Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 16:52 Quote
Go over the mechanics of the bike by doing a full inspection of the drive train, hubs, and brakes. If that is over your head take it to your bike shop for them to do a once over and also ask them this same question. If they say, everything looks good then you are already at the bike shop to "demo" a few others. If you take some demo bikes to the same trails and you notice an incredible difference then their you go new bike time. If you don't then its your fitness level and you need to pedal more.

Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 17:33 Quote
if your fork/shock pressures are too low and your using compression to 'hold your weight' this will create a harsh yet soggy feeling bike. tire choice may be an issue depending what you have. I run 2.3-2.5 Maxis dhf and michelin on my rides and 28 psi rear, 25 front. are your wheels set up tubeless already?

oh ya, get the fork lowers serviced if you haven't yet. do this before readjustng fork settings if it hasn't been done this yr or ever...

Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 18:02 Quote
I have a newer long travel enduro type, and i noticed cleaning the factory "lube" off the chain completely and then apply dry teflon type on all pulleys, each link, and run through all gears wipe off excess made a world of difference literally for me. Also the chain has loosened up after some use and runs much smoother in climbing gear wich is a very harsh angle on 1x drivetrain with boost. Reapply dry lube every second ride, bit of noise crops up when it wears off. This only works for me because i do not encounter mud and wet western colorado dust mostly).
Also getting sag right is key. If the sag is too much, the suspension moves MUCH more as you enter the midstroke constantly. Saps energy like crazy. Rides nice, but pedal strikes also a problem. Super grippy dh casing tires will hamper a climb tremendously also

Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 19:54 Quote
I’m a pretty big “maintenance freak” making sure everything is running crisp and silent. I’m set up tubeless and running new i9 wheels non carbon but super light, my bike is a cc and is pretty light all around, I just feel it I’m going at low speeds especially techy stuff, it’s not to lively. I could for sure say my legs could be a bit stronger but still I’m in good shape and feel like a slug out there or if I’m trying to keep up with others in single track I’m pedaling harder then anyone and not going around anyone by any means.


I rode my buddies 5010 and it felt like the power went straight to the trail and I know I’m not comparing apples to apples with 45mm difference in travel.

Thank you guys!

Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 19:56 Quote
Servicing the suspension sounds like a good idea

Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 20:26 Quote
Maintained is very different than dialed in. What tire specifics, brand type pressures and suspension setttings and your weight?
I’ve seen some amazing bikes just ruined by poor setup. Yours sounds wicked

Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 21:26 Quote
2.5 front and back DhF and shorty rear, front 38 psi and rear 30, I weigh 185 front is pike at 90psi, rear is monarch plus rc3 with 240psi, running the eagle 1x12 still running the race face crank 32 tooth

I have ran a different test I realize the shorty is clunky but both at Maxx terra exo tr

Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 22:25 Quote
BoVinny wrote:
2.5 front and back DhF and shorty rear, front 38 psi and rear 30, I weigh 185 front is pike at 90psi, rear is monarch plus rc3 with 240psi, running the eagle 1x12 still running the race face crank 32 tooth

I have ran a different test I realize the shorty is clunky but both at Maxx terra exo tr

Shorty is less than ideal rear tyre especially coupled with DHF at front ad it's bit draggy. For example agressor or some semi slick tyre at rear for drier conditions and DHR 2, HR2 or other DHF for more moist conditions would suit better.

Posted: Jun 19, 2019 at 1:10 Quote
My bet is on the tires. Shorty on the back will be slow as shit.

Posted: Jun 19, 2019 at 8:56 Quote
those tires are slow and heavy. I notice a difference just going to a 2.3 DHR on the rear vs. the Ardent Race I am currently running. Riding with a friend, he says I just leave him when we start down, both not pedaling. He is running aggressive knobs and me on 2.6 Rekon up front and 2.35 Ardent Race out back. Both of us on 29's.

I notice the rolling resistance and weight. I don't like getting over 850g in the rear and try to stay with a sub 800 gram tire in the front for anything other than slower winter riding. IDK how you guys run heavy tires unless you just simply need them for terrain or serious downhill.

sounds like everything else is in line other than you are riding a long travel bike and would expect a little less efficiency, but I would not think it to be that drastic.

Posted: Jun 19, 2019 at 10:35 Quote
gmoss wrote:
those tires are slow and heavy. I notice a difference just going to a 2.3 DHR on the rear vs. the Ardent Race I am currently running. Riding with a friend, he says I just leave him when we start down, both not pedaling. He is running aggressive knobs and me on 2.6 Rekon up front and 2.35 Ardent Race out back. Both of us on 29's.

I notice the rolling resistance and weight. I don't like getting over 850g in the rear and try to stay with a sub 800 gram tire in the front for anything other than slower winter riding. IDK how you guys run heavy tires unless you just simply need them for terrain or serious downhill.


sounds like everything else is in line other than you are riding a long travel bike and would expect a little less efficiency, but I would not think it to be that drastic.


Much appreciated man, iv gotta try something different.

Posted: Jun 19, 2019 at 16:07 Quote
Also those tire pressures. They are really high. You won't roll thru any small obstacles like small rocks and roots.
On the other hand if your trails are buff then it won't make that much of a difference.

Posted: Jun 19, 2019 at 21:33 Quote
It's tires 100% and from my experience you cannot compensate 'slow' tire by increasing pressure in it.

Posted: Jun 20, 2019 at 13:22 Quote
I have the Nomad and compared to the newer trail bikes, that everyone else seems to have, it is indeed a slower trail bike. It's designed to slowly get you to the top and then rip the downhills. It's the best park bike I've ever ridden and love it on the downs. The more gnar the better! I've been pushing mine around as my only bike for a season or two and did the tricks to make it better on the trail. It helped, but in the end I picked up a 5010 and I am loving it. I'm keeping the Nomad for park/shuttle/freeride/backup bike days and using the 5010 for everything else.

That being said there are some tricks. As others have mentioned tires are key. 2.5 Minion 3C's are great tires but are pretty sluggish. 2.3 DHF upfront is hard to beat. For the rear a Minion SS or an Aggressor in 2.3 will be much lighter and faster. You will lose some traction though, so be prepared. Suspension setup can also help. You may need to stiffen up the suspension a bit and/or add some low speed compression to the rear shock. You'll lose some of that plushy goodness, but it will add some snap to your step. One thing that I just discovered was the oval chainring. I was skeptical at first but I am sold. Not a total game changer, but something you definitely notice on the trail. Good luck!

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