Thanks again - Sorry about all the questions - but had different LBS reps tell me I need different ones so thought the 153 community are probably more reliable!
I am putting in on the standard factory cranks (haven't changed any parts) which state: CRANKARMS: SRAM Descendant Carbon DUB BB: SRAM DUB PF92
Chainring is dedicated for Boost148 bikes ONLY Converts a regular Sram crank into a Boost specific setup Compatibility: SRAM XX1, XX1 Eagle, X01, X01 Eagle X1, X0, X9, X7, S2210, S1400 and Truvativ AKA cranks. GXP® and Long spindle BB30. BOOST148 bikes ONLY. 9-10-11-12spd Material: CNC machined 7075 Txxx Aluminum. Long-lasting construction. Mud optimized Finish: type II anodizing Chainline: 52mm BOOST148 specific chainline Ovality: Optimized to each size separately. Range: 10.2-14.4% and Timing of 110.5-116.3° after TDC (top dead center)
Cheers
Yep, that's the one you need!
Awesome thanks Simann! Bit of a worry sometimes when different stores tell you different things
Can I ask one more question (more out of curiosity) - What happens if you put one on which in 0mm offset, such as this? This is apparently what a friend has on the CR/DL:
0 mm offset chain rings are for Super Boost spacing only (157mm).
Throwing the chain line further out (3mm) from the hub would make it more difficult to shift into the lowest rear cog (50t Eagle etc...) as the chain would have to stretch at an extreme angle to reach that gear. But I guess if you were running a smaller rear cassette (10-46/10-42) it may not be so much of an issue. At those chain line angles, you would most likely wear the chainring teeth and chain out prematurely.
I think most shock makers changed the lockout form an actual lockout to a platform. Less chance of damage if you forget to switch it when you go back downhill.
Also for $290 Craig at Avalanche can custom tune it for you to make it better than stock, tuned to you, your bike & terrain.
I just had this done at Vorsprung in Whistler. Tractive Tune. Same idea, shock tuned to me, my bike, and majority of my riding terrain. Just put back in the mail, should have this week. Can't wait. Rockshox Monarch Plus RC3.
I think most shock makers changed the lockout form an actual lockout to a platform. Less chance of damage if you forget to switch it when you go back downhill.
Also for $290 Craig at Avalanche can custom tune it for you to make it better than stock, tuned to you, your bike & terrain.
I just had this done at Vorsprung in Whistler. Tractive Tune. Same idea, shock tuned to me, my bike, and majority of my riding terrain. Just put back in the mail, should have this week. Can't wait. Rockshox Monarch Plus RC3.
Awesome! Let us know if it is any better. Do you also have the dpx2 with dial?
I think most shock makers changed the lockout form an actual lockout to a platform. Less chance of damage if you forget to switch it when you go back downhill.
Also for $290 Craig at Avalanche can custom tune it for you to make it better than stock, tuned to you, your bike & terrain.
I just had this done at Vorsprung in Whistler. Tractive Tune. Same idea, shock tuned to me, my bike, and majority of my riding terrain. Just put back in the mail, should have this week. Can't wait. Rockshox Monarch Plus RC3.
Awesome! Let us know if it is any better. Do you also have the dpx2 with dial?
No, Rockshox Monarch Plus Rc3. I'll still let you know how it feels though.
So I changed (also most wrongs ‘chained’ ) my chainring to an oval. Went for a ride and I personally like it so far. Legs/knees didn’t feel as sore as normal and Strava also says I done my person best on the climbs (not by a huge amount but a few mins here and there).
Anyway, I read you don’t need to change the chain unless you drop more than 2-teeth IN USE, IE: 34T has 17teeth engaged, and 32T has 16teeth therefore it’s only one difference and wouldn’t need a chain adjustment.
However, look how slack it is when I’m in the highest gear. It’s ok when pedaling as tensions up a bit but if I stop/back pedal this is how slack it gets. I did push it down he melt for the photo just to try show how loose it is.
Would you recommend I remove a chain link or two? Or just leave it as I raaaaaarely use the high gear where I live. Taking a chain link off will also be first for me but I do have a little tool thing for it.
Chain after changing to from 34T circle to 32T oval ring
That chain looks really slack. I would size the chain accordingly. What if you do use that gear when on the trail? Your chain will be slapping all o er the place possibly messing up that beautiful paint job you ha e there I ha e an oval and my chain doesn't look like that in any gear...
Has anyone had the opportunity to compare the Fox Float X2 to the Rockshox Super Deluxe with Megneg on the 153? I've heard the Megneg gives a similar feel to the X2, just curious what the differences are or which one you'd prefer.
Has anyone had the opportunity to compare the Fox Float X2 to the Rockshox Super Deluxe with Megneg on the 153? I've heard the Megneg gives a similar feel to the X2, just curious what the differences are or which one you'd prefer.
I've ran both. I can say the MegNeg on the SDU feels like the X2, but with a lot less fiddle-factor. The X2 is tiresome to dial in, where with the SDU, each adjustment is perceptible and easy to find your happy spot within a few rides. Frankly, I prefer the SDU over the X2.