with solid wide range 1x9-10 speed drivetrains available (Advent) and more coming (BOX) ...why swap to 11 or 12sp?

PB Forum :: Bikes, Parts, and Gear
with solid wide range 1x9-10 speed drivetrains available (Advent) and more coming (BOX) ...why swap to 11 or 12sp?
Previous Page | Next Page
Author Message
Posted: Sep 3, 2019 at 14:14 Quote
I've just finished building a new to me 2017 Devinci Troy.

I scored a box of "as new" parts that were on a friends bikes for about 3 weeks, maybe 3 short rides before he upgraded to 11sp SRAM, and customized everything to his preference..

IT IS DONE In all its MULLET glory .

..in the box:
2017 Pike 120mm (he preferred Fox)
XTR 10sp shifters, derailleurs, cassettes,
Cannondale Hollowtech SI cranks, bottom brackets, assorted accessories etc..

The Pike and drivetrain parts in excellent shape were the major scores, thank goodness i was JUST able to make the cut steerer fit with an upgrade to Hope Headset (super low profile top cap) & was able to drop a 160mm travel air spring into the Pike to get it where I needed it to be.



Drivetrain was another issue, I stewed for weeks trying to figure out if I should sell it all to help fund an 11-12 speed setup, I compared Sram / XT / XTR / BOX drivetrain options...
OR...try and use what i had to get an Uber low cost drive train working on the bike. The last DT I set up was 27sp 3x9..

A MTB accident, shattered collarbone and $5k++ in out of pocket expenses (even with good insurance!) made the decision for me.. Make the 10sp. stuff work at least for a while...

Absolute Black 34t Oval Direct Mount chainring Cannondale Hollowtech SI crank set
Absolute Black 34t Oval Direct Mount chainring + Cannondale Hollowtech SI crank set


So I've got an XTR M980 10sp. Rr. Der, w/XTR rr shifter. the Cannondale cranks with their unique offset, and an Abs. Blk. Direct mount oval chainring worked perfect with my boost spec rear end, and made for a nearly perfectly aligned drivetrain/chainline.

Shifting has been pretty good ive only ridden it 1x, & i am tweaking and testing,.... running a Sunrace 11/46 cassette... I have a small issue with the chain not always wanting to drop down to the next highest gear in all gears, looks like on 2 of the 10 the der. hangs up and then jumpos a gear i am pretty sure it is an adjustment of some type I need to make....but aside from my old fat ass struggling with a 34/46 on some steeper sections, the range feels fine,...

The question is ...if you can dial in the shifting on a solid 1x10sp setup with very decent range ( I'd appreciate a 50t rear but not sure its critical)... why upgrade?


CSM980 XTR 10sp rear der.
CSM980 XTR 10sp rear der.

If a 9-10 sp drivetrain has the range you need for the terrain you ride in why switch?

Are the common issues with 1 x 11-12 sp. drivetrains completely outweighed by the benefits, & in the end, truly worth ignoring to switch...?

Have we reached the limit?, when does the law of diminishing returns kick in..?

Posted: Sep 3, 2019 at 15:19 Quote
what is the drawback of 12 spd? the chain side plates are only marginally thinner on 12 spd vs 9spd? just moved from 11-42 10 spd to 10-50 12spd. more range WAY more - 1 gear either end. most people will eventually move to 12 speed, most factory bikes now come fitted. if you get 10months wear out of a chain instead of 12 months then is this really significant for a $50 consumable part?

Posted: Sep 4, 2019 at 22:10 Quote
Just get a smaller chainring if you are struggling or walking steep hills. I went as low as a 26t oval for a while on a 9-46 11sp cassette and it was great really, lose a little top end speed but beats walking the super steep sections. They say to drop 4 teeth at a time to notice much of a difference so keep that in mind if you do.

Posted: Oct 15, 2019 at 17:43 Quote
a-d-e wrote:
what is the drawback of 12 spd? the chain side plates are only marginally thinner on 12 spd vs 9spd? just moved from 11-42 10 spd to 10-50 12spd. more range WAY more - 1 gear either end. most people will eventually move to 12 speed, most factory bikes now come fitted. if you get 10months wear out of a chain instead of 12 months then is this really significant for a $50 consumable part?



- not saying there are any drawbacks but the ones already noted with 11-12speed systems..etc..
- not sweating the cost of parts lol,..,..MTB is not a wallet friendly sport.

Just a basic question: Why go 12s if 10s is avail. cheaper and provides a very similar effective range ..?

.. and yes 12 is on new bikes etc, i get it....but there are a ton of bikes out there still in excellent shape, maybe needing new DT parts,...most people don't ditch a solid frame due to outdated drive train, MANY new riders can join the sport if they saw that WR 10s setups work perfectly awesome and have little benefits like less weight, cheaper parts, better chain line, less wear etc...

I just built up a used frame, saved easily 3.5k in the final build with all high end parts, its a 2016 and you'd have to look very closely to tell its not Br. new such is the condition. I've seen partial bikes and frames to complete bikes from the last 3-7 years in excellent condition, for dirt cheap many are 9-10 speeds and MAYBE need a little work..
The cost of a 12 speed group is not insignificant from an upgrade perspective... the cost of 9-10-11 sp stuff is dropping regularly,... i'm restoring a Maverick ML7 right now for a fun project and cause I got a very unique complete bike for $250!


..personally I find climbing in a 46/11 is about as low as I need for the steeps... any lower, might as well walk & use different muscles for a few min, i'm movin so slowly...) I don't need nor am i looking for a lower gear if the hill is too steep for my phat ass & unfit legs ill walk it, no shame in my game

again,.... the point was a simple question:


My 10s setup was meant to be a stop gap for this build as I decided which high end 12 speed setup to move on to,...( and saved up more $$!) . now, after several rides on this setup... i dont see any reason to 'upgrade' to 12 speeds...

Posted: Oct 27, 2019 at 7:33 Quote
I have been using 10 speed 11-42 & 11-46 with 30T oval chainring. Have the same question, why 12 speed? I often shift 2 gears at a time both directions. Range is fine but finer selection within that range seems like it would be a luxury not necessity.

Posted: Oct 27, 2019 at 8:41 Quote
I run 1x10 and have no need to switch, if the incline gets to much then
I happily hoof it.

The more folk switch up to 11, 12 spd then the more 2nd parts on the market
for the likes of me to hoover up for my builds.

I don't chase the new and latest or trends, I still run with 26 wheel, only
lately have got into 27.5, even then its half an half with mullet builds.
The longer you hold back you can kinda see how the new stuff pans out
in terms of reliabilty, costs etc

As long as I have fun on my rides and all is servicable, relaible and at a
managable cost for my budget, I'm well happy.

Posted: Oct 27, 2019 at 8:42 Quote
Branmuffin wrote:
Just get a smaller chainring if you are struggling or walking steep hills. I went as low as a 26t oval for a while on a 9-46 11sp cassette and it was great really, lose a little top end speed but beats walking the super steep sections. They say to drop 4 teeth at a time to notice much of a difference so keep that in mind if you do.

Exactly.

I'm running a 28T chainring with 9-46T cassette and it has more range than I need. 0.61:1 is great for steep climbs and 3.11:1 is more than enough for fast flats (29er with 2.6" tires ... don't make me calculate gear inches).

As Branmuffin said, downsize your chainring if you need a lower ratio. If that means you occasionally spin out the high end, the problem will be infrequent and probably not severe.

A few less sprockets with a little less range sounds reasonable to me, especially if it's more durable and/or less sensitive to misalignment. Tight steps between ratios is nice on my road bike, but larger steps between ratios is fine on dirt.

Posted: Oct 28, 2019 at 2:24 Quote
I think it depends
For me personally. I use 2x11. (a front derailleur i know, thats how i bought the bike)

I do want to go to 1x11 or 12. But i wouldnt go to 9spd. There is good reason for that.

Where i live there arent any real mountains to speak of. So i never do climbs that take an hour or anywhere close to that. There are hills close where i live but you'll be able to reach the top within minutes.

Because the hills are short you can charge em. You want to have exactly the right gear when you do that tho. too high and you cant keep the power down. Too low and you cant keep your speed up. Thats why i prefer small gear steps. because i have the right gear for everything i come across and maintain speed.

But i would agree when you do long climbs and downhills you dont need it since you either use very low or very high gears

Previous Page | Next Page

 
Copyright © 2000 - 2019. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv56 0.011244
Mobile Version of Website