Ripmo AF Thread

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Ripmo AF Thread
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Posted: Oct 14, 2020 at 7:53 Quote
Why not just get shorts with a zipped pocket?

Posted: Oct 14, 2020 at 8:28 Quote
Linkeds2 wrote:
WasatchEnduro wrote:
Are you looking specifically for a bag option? Can't help you there but I run a Blackburn switch wrap tool kit which I strap to the top tube and holds their multitool plus tire levers and tube. Pump is mounted by the bottle cage but I needed a Wolf Tooth B-RAD to get everything to fit with the damn cable flustercuck we have to deal with.

Best case scenario is a bag. Because I want to store my phone.

Last resort I guess would be maybe a top tube phone mount and then strap a bag to the tube like yours. Maybe that’s safer for my phone too

Leave the phone at home, get away from that thing.

Posted: Oct 14, 2020 at 8:47 Quote
T4THH wrote:
Why not just get shorts with a zipped pocket?

Do this ^^. I actually lost my phone a handful of times on a jump trail riding in shorts without zippers lol. Added zippers to them shortly after

Posted: Oct 14, 2020 at 10:44 Quote
I use my phone to track my ride on Trailforks and to navigate new trail systems. Just got a quad lock mount and case and going to try riding with it on the bar for trail riding. Won’t be using it for downhill or jump lines though. Will let you know how it works out. Cheaper to use my phone then spend a bunch on a separate wahoo/Garmin

Posted: Oct 14, 2020 at 11:39 Quote
Branmuffin wrote:
Linkeds2 wrote:
WasatchEnduro wrote:
Are you looking specifically for a bag option? Can't help you there but I run a Blackburn switch wrap tool kit which I strap to the top tube and holds their multitool plus tire levers and tube. Pump is mounted by the bottle cage but I needed a Wolf Tooth B-RAD to get everything to fit with the damn cable flustercuck we have to deal with.

Best case scenario is a bag. Because I want to store my phone.

Last resort I guess would be maybe a top tube phone mount and then strap a bag to the tube like yours. Maybe that’s safer for my phone too

Leave the phone at home, get away from that thing.


honestly bring a map and a nokia 3310 Lol

Posted: Oct 14, 2020 at 11:45 Quote
Branmuffin wrote:
Linkeds2 wrote:
WasatchEnduro wrote:
Are you looking specifically for a bag option? Can't help you there but I run a Blackburn switch wrap tool kit which I strap to the top tube and holds their multitool plus tire levers and tube. Pump is mounted by the bottle cage but I needed a Wolf Tooth B-RAD to get everything to fit with the damn cable flustercuck we have to deal with.

Best case scenario is a bag. Because I want to store my phone.

Last resort I guess would be maybe a top tube phone mount and then strap a bag to the tube like yours. Maybe that’s safer for my phone too

Leave the phone at home, get away from that thing.

Yea, no lol. It’s 2020 so if something happens to me then I need to be able to call somebody. I can assure you, I’m not facebooking when riding.

bdreynolds7 wrote:
T4THH wrote:
Why not just get shorts with a zipped pocket?

Do this ^^. I actually lost my phone a handful of times on a jump trail riding in shorts without zippers lol. Added zippers to them shortly after

I’ve got some cargo shorts I ride with with buttoned pockets so I’ve considered living with that. Thanks for the input!

Posted: Oct 14, 2020 at 12:14 Quote
i have XL and use the blackburn bag.
Blackburn Outpost Corner Bike Bag.


I was chatting with a guy about his porkchop bag on his AF [large]. I had the bikes close together. The porkchop bag is bigger and can fit more stuff. I don't think its quite as roomy as it looks, though. the way the porkchop bag wraps around the tubes a little bit is a bit deceiving on the volume.

https://www.amazon.com/Blackburn-Outpost-Corner-Black-Size/dp/B075RRH4Q6/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1U6DCCRW8P8Q0&dchild=1&keywords=blackburn+bike+bag&qid=1602701768&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=blackburn%2Csporting%2C197&sr=1-5

have run this with both jadeX and with a DPX2 shock. i usually have my older iphone6s [ 5.75"x2.75"], car keys, cliff bar in there. the straps it comes with work fine. i mount it with zipper upside down. bag fits best that way but slightly annoying.

Posted: Oct 14, 2020 at 12:36 Quote
Linkeds2 wrote:
Branmuffin wrote:
Linkeds2 wrote:


Best case scenario is a bag. Because I want to store my phone.

Last resort I guess would be maybe a top tube phone mount and then strap a bag to the tube like yours. Maybe that’s safer for my phone too

Leave the phone at home, get away from that thing.

Yea, no lol. It’s 2020 so if something happens to me then I need to be able to call somebody. I can assure you, I’m not facebooking when riding.

bdreynolds7 wrote:
T4THH wrote:
Why not just get shorts with a zipped pocket?

Do this ^^. I actually lost my phone a handful of times on a jump trail riding in shorts without zippers lol. Added zippers to them shortly after

I’ve got some cargo shorts I ride with with buttoned pockets so I’ve considered living with that. Thanks for the input!

I use to ride with a phone also, but always worried about destroying a $1200 phone and don’t care to ride a pack if possible. Bike storage is pretty well protected, you could even fit it ina gear strap if you really wanted to but still vulnerable in a crash.
Once Apple watches went GPS capable, and have cellular service I have never taken a phone again. Still pricey, and not for everyone but they are a good alternative to a phone if you already have one. They will also track your ride.

Posted: Oct 14, 2020 at 16:44 Quote
reginald68 wrote:
i have XL and use the blackburn bag.
Blackburn Outpost Corner Bike Bag.


I was chatting with a guy about his porkchop bag on his AF [large]. I had the bikes close together. The porkchop bag is bigger and can fit more stuff. I don't think its quite as roomy as it looks, though. the way the porkchop bag wraps around the tubes a little bit is a bit deceiving on the volume.

https://www.amazon.com/Blackburn-Outpost-Corner-Black-Size/dp/B075RRH4Q6/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1U6DCCRW8P8Q0&dchild=1&keywords=blackburn+bike+bag&qid=1602701768&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=blackburn%2Csporting%2C197&sr=1-5

have run this with both jadeX and with a DPX2 shock. i usually have my older iphone6s [ 5.75"x2.75"], car keys, cliff bar in there. the straps it comes with work fine. i mount it with zipper upside down. bag fits best that way but slightly annoying.

This is perfect thanks!

O+
Posted: Oct 14, 2020 at 19:49 Quote
Branmuffin wrote:
dresendsit wrote:
Recently demoed a Ripmo AF and loved it. The AF was the best pedaling trail bike I've been on and descended beautifully. Couldn’t believe the AF lived up to the hype. I ordered a carbon V2 same day. Picked up last week and went riding.

When I hit our usual trail it did not climb as well as I experienced on the AF. The AF loved to climb and felt light for being a heavier bike. But my new V2 felt sluggish. You assume carbon should climb better. Unfortunately it's more complicated than that.

There were some differences in the V2 spec versus the AF. I imagine one if not all of these differences contributed to the tougher climbing. Here are some differences between the two bikes (both size L):


Rear tire - not sure what was on the AF but it seemed quicker and lighter. The carbon V2 came with a DHR II MaxxGrip from the shop (not my choice) - I assume this tire is hurting climbs a lot. Any rear tire suggestions? Leaning towards a Rekon or Aggressor in 2C (not 3C).


Oval Chainring - AF demo had an Oval black 32t chainring. Sounds crazy but I've watched videos of people praising these for climbing. My v2 has the standard GX circular 32t.


Rear Shock - AF demo had a standard Topaz T3 but I specd the Jade X coil (450 lb spring) on the V2. Coil does well in pedal position (not a fan of the complete lockout for tech climbs). The T3's pedal position seemed slightly better. Great grip and minimal bob. The the coil in trail position was good but had slightly more movement and lost some of its traction compared to open. Descending is a different story - no surprise the coil wins here. Trying to avoid locked on either shock to keep some traction but the coil lock out is significantly more firm.


Crank Arms - Pretty sure the AF had 175mm cranks but can't say for sure. The shop wouldn't give a straight answer when I asked what the demo was spec'd. I wanted 175mm on the V2 but they could only get 170mm on order. I know people are going shorter lately but curious if anyone else noticed a loss in *perceived" climbing power from going to shorter cranks.


Stem - AF had a 50mm stem and I tried a 35mm stem on the V2. Anyone notice a big difference in 50mm vs 35mm for climbing?


Appreciate any opinion/experience on how these different components affect your climbing. To clarify the V2 did descend better than the AF - it's climbing I want to fix.

It’s the coil that hurting your climbing. Oval might make a bit of difference but it won’t be much. If you want climbing efficiency, move back to the air spring.

I think you're right - swapping rear tires and the oval helped a little but still feeling a bit sluggish. Unfortunately the Topaz is waiting on production until the end of the month. Are you running an air shock? If so, which one? Thanks for your feedback.

Posted: Oct 15, 2020 at 4:59 Quote
dresendsit wrote:
Branmuffin wrote:
dresendsit wrote:
Recently demoed a Ripmo AF and loved it. The AF was the best pedaling trail bike I've been on and descended beautifully. Couldn’t believe the AF lived up to the hype. I ordered a carbon V2 same day. Picked up last week and went riding.

When I hit our usual trail it did not climb as well as I experienced on the AF. The AF loved to climb and felt light for being a heavier bike. But my new V2 felt sluggish. You assume carbon should climb better. Unfortunately it's more complicated than that.

There were some differences in the V2 spec versus the AF. I imagine one if not all of these differences contributed to the tougher climbing. Here are some differences between the two bikes (both size L):


Rear tire - not sure what was on the AF but it seemed quicker and lighter. The carbon V2 came with a DHR II MaxxGrip from the shop (not my choice) - I assume this tire is hurting climbs a lot. Any rear tire suggestions? Leaning towards a Rekon or Aggressor in 2C (not 3C).


Oval Chainring - AF demo had an Oval black 32t chainring. Sounds crazy but I've watched videos of people praising these for climbing. My v2 has the standard GX circular 32t.


Rear Shock - AF demo had a standard Topaz T3 but I specd the Jade X coil (450 lb spring) on the V2. Coil does well in pedal position (not a fan of the complete lockout for tech climbs). The T3's pedal position seemed slightly better. Great grip and minimal bob. The the coil in trail position was good but had slightly more movement and lost some of its traction compared to open. Descending is a different story - no surprise the coil wins here. Trying to avoid locked on either shock to keep some traction but the coil lock out is significantly more firm.


Crank Arms - Pretty sure the AF had 175mm cranks but can't say for sure. The shop wouldn't give a straight answer when I asked what the demo was spec'd. I wanted 175mm on the V2 but they could only get 170mm on order. I know people are going shorter lately but curious if anyone else noticed a loss in *perceived" climbing power from going to shorter cranks.


Stem - AF had a 50mm stem and I tried a 35mm stem on the V2. Anyone notice a big difference in 50mm vs 35mm for climbing?


Appreciate any opinion/experience on how these different components affect your climbing. To clarify the V2 did descend better than the AF - it's climbing I want to fix.

It’s the coil that hurting your climbing. Oval might make a bit of difference but it won’t be much. If you want climbing efficiency, move back to the air spring.

I think you're right - swapping rear tires and the oval helped a little but still feeling a bit sluggish. Unfortunately the Topaz is waiting on production until the end of the month. Are you running an air shock? If so, which one? Thanks for your feedback.

I ride a v1 Ripmo with a fox x2. I had a topaz one my old bike and it’s a great shock. The fact that you are using the climb switch tells me it’s the jade causing the issue. I have thousands of miles on my bike and have never reached for the climb switch once. The bike has such a stable climbing platform it wouldn’t make any difference and would probably reduce traction and decrease climbing efficiency.
It’s also possible you just need some time to get use to the bike and the Jade. Your body is still probably in tube with your old bike and efficiency should increase with more time on the new bike.

Posted: Oct 15, 2020 at 10:35 Quote
Branmuffin wrote:
I ride a v1 Ripmo with a fox x2. I had a topaz one my old bike and it’s a great shock. The fact that you are using the climb switch tells me it’s the jade causing the issue. I have thousands of miles on my bike and have never reached for the climb switch once. The bike has such a stable climbing platform it wouldn’t make any difference and would probably reduce traction and decrease climbing efficiency.
It’s also possible you just need some time to get use to the bike and the Jade. Your body is still probably in tube with your old bike and efficiency should increase with more time on the new bike.

Hey BM - the three riders I know on Ripmos (myself included) all use the climb switch liberally. And that's on an X2, DPX-2, and most recently a Super Deluxe (me).

Everyone's mileage may vary, and the platform is pretty efficient, but I think most riders will still benefit from using the firm or mid setting fairly often on their shock of choice. Mine definitely climbs better with air than coil. Also the Jade-X climb switch is almost hardtail firm and IMO too firm for all but the smoothest climbs.

Anyways everyone's terrain is different and some riders, like you, may be better climbers and/or have a smoother cadence, lighter weight, whatever. But everyone should not think there's something wrong if they find a climb switch helpful on the bike. The best climber I know (I affectionately call him a mountain goat) uses the climb switch on his v1 w/ dpx-2 quite often, and he puts down some power.

And I agree it just takes time to get a new bike set up and adjusted to preference so it feels right. dresendsit can still dial in chainring, crank length, stem length, saddle position, sag, tire choice. It's a good problem to have to be dialing in a new v2!

Posted: Oct 15, 2020 at 10:44 Quote
Quick warning for coil owners, check your shaft on the top side right where it enters the shock body for scoring.

I have maybe 40 minutes on mine since it came back from warranty the first time and it is already showing scratches. It is as if the shock is flexing rather then moving in at the very beginning of the stroke.

Before the avalanche of questions, I have probably 100 hours on my dpx2 on the same bike and its perfect and the rear has been torn down and lubed multiple times in my 5 months of ownership.

Posted: Oct 15, 2020 at 11:28 Quote
WasatchEnduro wrote:
Branmuffin wrote:
I ride a v1 Ripmo with a fox x2. I had a topaz one my old bike and it’s a great shock. The fact that you are using the climb switch tells me it’s the jade causing the issue. I have thousands of miles on my bike and have never reached for the climb switch once. The bike has such a stable climbing platform it wouldn’t make any difference and would probably reduce traction and decrease climbing efficiency.
It’s also possible you just need some time to get use to the bike and the Jade. Your body is still probably in tube with your old bike and efficiency should increase with more time on the new bike.

Hey BM - the three riders I know on Ripmos (myself included) all use the climb switch liberally. And that's on an X2, DPX-2, and most recently a Super Deluxe (me).

Everyone's mileage may vary, and the platform is pretty efficient, but I think most riders will still benefit from using the firm or mid setting fairly often on their shock of choice. Mine definitely climbs better with air than coil. Also the Jade-X climb switch is almost hardtail firm and IMO too firm for all but the smoothest climbs.

Anyways everyone's terrain is different and some riders, like you, may be better climbers and/or have a smoother cadence, lighter weight, whatever. But everyone should not think there's something wrong if they find a climb switch helpful on the bike. The best climber I know (I affectionately call him a mountain goat) uses the climb switch on his v1 w/ dpx-2 quite often, and he puts down some power.

And I agree it just takes time to get a new bike set up and adjusted to preference so it feels right. dresendsit can still dial in chainring, crank length, stem length, saddle position, sag, tire choice. It's a good problem to have to be dialing in a new v2!

There’s nothing wrong with using the climb switch, I have never felt it beneficial with this bike, it’s also generally a pro in most reviews found on the bike. I came from a Horst link Jeffsy and it was night and day if you didn’t use the climb switch. I am also primarily a seated climber, and don’t tend to mash pedals, typically ride clipless which probably reduces pedal mashing. I also ride about 22% sag is where the rear end feels best to me.
All I am saying is it’s a great pedaling platform and you shouldn’t be dependent on

Posted: Oct 15, 2020 at 11:54 Quote
What are thoughts on setting up OTT for the onyx? New DVO setup guide has the chart set up for weight. For example 190 lbs = 12 turns. But to get 25% sag, I’m running 70 psi, which is far less than what DVO recommends, more in line with a 170 lb. rider. So I’m wondering: better to set up OTT according to weight chart or according to psi you’re running? Obviously this would just be as a baseline.


 
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