Ripmo AF Thread

PB Forum :: Ibis
Ripmo AF Thread
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Posted: Apr 1, 2020 at 11:49 Quote
I was wondering whether I should get in is frame or something like ride wrap or get something like 3m helicopter tape? I want to make sure there are minimal scratches because my current bike doesn't have any protection on it and it looks very scuffed and bad in my opinion.

I am also worried about how people say the backend gets squirmy under high g forces and also know that I will probably not notice it since I'm not that good of a rider but do you guys think about it? Is there any way to make the backend stiffer?

Posted: Apr 1, 2020 at 12:34 Quote
Is anyone in the northeast riding one of these? The majority of our trails are slow and technical. Wondering how it fares in stuff like that. I'm sure it rips on the short DH runs we have, but that's not the majority of our terrain unfortunately.

Posted: Apr 1, 2020 at 12:42 Quote
Shredfast wrote:
I am also worried about how people say the backend gets squirmy under high g forces and also know that I will probably not notice it since I'm not that good of a rider but do you guys think about it? Is there any way to make the backend stiffer?

I haven't noticed this at all. The only place I've heard this comment from someone who's experienced that issue, was Jeff Kendall-Weed, when comparing it to his carbon version. The context for that, was when he was heavily loading the bike into big gap jumps.

Although I haven't hit any big gap jumps at this point, I've hit regular sized jumps, some moderate G-outs, and lots of rough DH sections, and haven't had a issue with flex. I imagine that most Aluminum frames that also have a Carbon version available, would be more compliant in some areas than the carbon versions.

Posted: Apr 1, 2020 at 14:35 Quote
I have the RAF in the northeast and it is just fine for me although you will get pedal strikes and you just need to know how to handle it. This is a small trade off to everything else though.

Posted: Apr 1, 2020 at 17:59 Quote
Need help I’m Between L/XL. I know this topic has come up a few times, sorry for the rehash but I’m torn big time. 6-1, 32.5 inseam. I rode the large on a trail, felt good but for how long the bike is, I didn’t feel like I could plow and felt high on the bike going downhill. Rode the XL around the shop, way more invincible feeling but turning radius / handling plus some weird hand pain had me 2nd guessing it. I need a 1 bike quiver capable in the park and local rocky chunky SoCal stuff. Wondering if I put a riser bar on the Large and push the saddle back if that would do it ? Or narrow the bars on the XL with 40mm stem

Posted: Apr 1, 2020 at 18:00 Quote
MikeSD wrote:
Need help I’m Between L/XL. I know this topic has come up a few times, sorry for the rehash but I’m torn big time. 6-1, 32.5 inseam. I rode the large on a trail, felt good but for how long the bike is, I didn’t feel like I could plow and felt high on the bike going downhill. Rode the XL around the shop, may more invincible feeling but turning radius / handling plus some weird hand pain had me 2nd guessing it. I need a 1 bike quiver capable in the park and local rocky chunky SoCal stuff.

XL, shorter stem, higher bar. Get the weight off your hands.

Posted: Apr 1, 2020 at 19:56 Quote
MikeSD wrote:
Need help I’m Between L/XL. I know this topic has come up a few times, sorry for the rehash but I’m torn big time. 6-1, 32.5 inseam. I rode the large on a trail, felt good but for how long the bike is, I didn’t feel like I could plow and felt high on the bike going downhill. Rode the XL around the shop, way more invincible feeling but turning radius / handling plus some weird hand pain had me 2nd guessing it. I need a 1 bike quiver capable in the park and local rocky chunky SoCal stuff. Wondering if I put a riser bar on the Large and push the saddle back if that would do it ? Or narrow the bars on the XL with 40mm stem

I'm 6' 2'' on a large, I've always preferred a smaller bike. Sounds like if you're gonna be riding parks and chunky downhill then the XL may be the way to go. However, I've never felt cramped on my large and its so good in the technical ups and downs. 6 foot Matt Walker is on a medium Switchblade so it's very much a comfortability thing. I think you'll be good on the large, no riser necessary.

Posted: Apr 1, 2020 at 20:03 Quote
Shredfast wrote:
I was wondering whether I should get in is frame or something like ride wrap or get something like 3m helicopter tape? I want to make sure there are minimal scratches because my current bike doesn't have any protection on it and it looks very scuffed and bad in my opinion.

I am also worried about how people say the backend gets squirmy under high g forces and also know that I will probably not notice it since I'm not that good of a rider but do you guys think about it? Is there any way to make the backend stiffer?

In regards to the squirmy back end, I have the RAF and a Yeti SB5 (170m up front with a SMOOTH DVO suspension) and I definitely feel the squirmy on the RAF on big drops to off-camber sections. In don't feel it on straight drops or even on turns, but when my 210lbs is flying down and hit a 2 or 3 foot drop at speed I feel it. BUT, I consider this a good thing.

My Yeti SB5 only has 127m of rear travel, but the DVO and Switch Infinity make it feel much deeper. I go off the same drops with my Yeti and it definitely feels harsher than the RAF and doesn't have the squirm, but also I head into a rock garden and the stiff carbon frame makes me pick my lines better.

I was just thinking about this on my ride today. I had a Kona Process 153 which was horrible at climbing but I could launch off of jumps and not worry about landing on a bunch of jagged or loose rocks because the aluminum frame (and jaguar-like ride) provided stability. I think the same about the RAF. Yes it's a bit heavy, but the seat tube angle really helps. Yes it's aluminum, but the bendiness provides both fun and safety.

I love my sporty Yeti. It's fast and full of precision fun! But the RAF is a brawler and a great climber (due to it's steep seat angle and back end).

Posted: Apr 1, 2020 at 20:06 Quote
I'm still having some issues with noise on this bike. To me it doesn't sound like chain slap, it sounds more like cables rattling around. I made sure the cables are secure at the cockpit area but I'm still getting noise. Maybe it's from the internal routing? Also 8 rides in and I have a linkage creak, happening sitting or standing while compressing suspension. Most noticeable pedaling uphill under load or a rough downhill. Can anyone relate?

Posted: Apr 1, 2020 at 20:10 Quote
nickmay26 wrote:
MikeSD wrote:
Need help I’m Between L/XL. I know this topic has come up a few times, sorry for the rehash but I’m torn big time. 6-1, 32.5 inseam. I rode the large on a trail, felt good but for how long the bike is, I didn’t feel like I could plow and felt high on the bike going downhill. Rode the XL around the shop, way more invincible feeling but turning radius / handling plus some weird hand pain had me 2nd guessing it. I need a 1 bike quiver capable in the park and local rocky chunky SoCal stuff. Wondering if I put a riser bar on the Large and push the saddle back if that would do it ? Or narrow the bars on the XL with 40mm stem

I'm 6' 2'' on a large, I've always preferred a smaller bike. Sounds like if you're gonna be riding parks and chunky downhill then the XL may be the way to go. However, I've never felt cramped on my large and its so good in the technical ups and downs. 6 foot Matt Walker is on a medium Switchblade so it's very much a comfortability thing. I think you'll be good on the large, no riser necessary.

Thanks guys. I did notice on the large I was cleaning climbs I had done in the past, on a 27.5 Xc bike lol. It was sick in that respect. Ibis told me to go Large as well but I’ve had others swear otherwise. I’m not that good of a rider and 42 years old so factor that in too.

Posted: Apr 2, 2020 at 1:16 Quote
nickmay26 wrote:
I'm still having some issues with noise on this bike. To me it doesn't sound like chain slap, it sounds more like cables rattling around. I made sure the cables are secure at the cockpit area but I'm still getting noise. Maybe it's from the internal routing? Also 8 rides in and I have a linkage creak, happening sitting or standing while compressing suspension. Most noticeable pedaling uphill under load or a rough downhill. Can anyone relate?

Hey, Ive noticed the exact same two noises from mine as well. For the cable rattle Ive used self amalgamating tap to wrap the cables together at the front 2x2m this seems to have stopped the noise but ive not rode a rough trail since i did this to check it out fully.
The creaking on mine stopped once I removed cleaned and refitted the cranks and BB as well as tightening all the links up.

Posted: Apr 2, 2020 at 7:49 Quote
the-wylie-man wrote:
nickmay26 wrote:
I'm still having some issues with noise on this bike. To me it doesn't sound like chain slap, it sounds more like cables rattling around. I made sure the cables are secure at the cockpit area but I'm still getting noise. Maybe it's from the internal routing? Also 8 rides in and I have a linkage creak, happening sitting or standing while compressing suspension. Most noticeable pedaling uphill under load or a rough downhill. Can anyone relate?

Hey, Ive noticed the exact same two noises from mine as well. For the cable rattle Ive used self amalgamating tap to wrap the cables together at the front 2x2m this seems to have stopped the noise but ive not rode a rough trail since i did this to check it out fully.
The creaking on mine stopped once I removed cleaned and refitted the cranks and BB as well as tightening all the links up.

Internal cable rattle: My solution is posted on page 11, Feb 5th. You don't need to remove the cables from the build, buy anything special and they're dead silent now. You just need to take some time to get it right.

Creaking noises: I'm struggling to track mine down over the past 2 weeks, but I swear they're coming from the rear end (hub, cassette, axle, or something back there). It sounds like a tick-tick noise, but only when I'm putting down power strokes on hard climbs, and I can't reproduce it when just cycling the suspension. My stock Ibis free hub had worked itself loose a couple of weeks back, and I thought that was for sure the culprit, but after disassembling, repacking, and adding some loctite, it's still making the noise. My next step was tightening the cassette a bit more last night, as the only time I've had this exact sound in the past, it was due to a loose cassette. I'll try to get out this afternoon and check.

Posted: Apr 2, 2020 at 8:18 Quote
Thanks for the advice, I plan on checking out the BB area and rear hub/cassette today and hopefully getting a ride on it afterwards

Posted: Apr 2, 2020 at 9:26 Quote
mammal wrote:
the-wylie-man wrote:
nickmay26 wrote:
I'm still having some issues with noise on this bike. To me it doesn't sound like chain slap, it sounds more like cables rattling around. I made sure the cables are secure at the cockpit area but I'm still getting noise. Maybe it's from the internal routing? Also 8 rides in and I have a linkage creak, happening sitting or standing while compressing suspension. Most noticeable pedaling uphill under load or a rough downhill. Can anyone relate?

Hey, Ive noticed the exact same two noises from mine as well. For the cable rattle Ive used self amalgamating tap to wrap the cables together at the front 2x2m this seems to have stopped the noise but ive not rode a rough trail since i did this to check it out fully.
The creaking on mine stopped once I removed cleaned and refitted the cranks and BB as well as tightening all the links up.

Internal cable rattle: My solution is posted on page 11, Feb 5th. You don't need to remove the cables from the build, buy anything special and they're dead silent now. You just need to take some time to get it right.

Creaking noises: I'm struggling to track mine down over the past 2 weeks, but I swear they're coming from the rear end (hub, cassette, axle, or something back there). It sounds like a tick-tick noise, but only when I'm putting down power strokes on hard climbs, and I can't reproduce it when just cycling the suspension. My stock Ibis free hub had worked itself loose a couple of weeks back, and I thought that was for sure the culprit, but after disassembling, repacking, and adding some loctite, it's still making the noise. My next step was tightening the cassette a bit more last night, as the only time I've had this exact sound in the past, it was due to a loose cassette. I'll try to get out this afternoon and check.

I had what sounds like an identical problem with a weird drivetrain tap/creak that was independent of suspension movement that turned out to be my rear axle was too tight and throwing off tolerances in the rear Ibis hub, i loosened and am taking it to only 6nm with my torque wrench and the back of the bike is dead silent again. I only discovered this after swapping cassettes and pulling the entire BB apart and it not getting better. Freakin too tight axle all along.

Good luck!

Posted: Apr 2, 2020 at 9:50 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
MikeSD wrote:
Need help I’m Between L/XL. I know this topic has come up a few times, sorry for the rehash but I’m torn big time. 6-1, 32.5 inseam. I rode the large on a trail, felt good but for how long the bike is, I didn’t feel like I could plow and felt high on the bike going downhill. Rode the XL around the shop, may more invincible feeling but turning radius / handling plus some weird hand pain had me 2nd guessing it. I need a 1 bike quiver capable in the park and local rocky chunky SoCal stuff.

XL, shorter stem, higher bar. Get the weight off your hands.

what R-M-R said!


 
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