Moving from a 30T to a 32T

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Moving from a 30T to a 32T
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Posted: Oct 10, 2019 at 5:41 Quote
I’m running SRAM eagle. I am jumping from a 30t ring to a 32t ring. Should I just use the same chain length + 2 links? Or do I need to go through the whole eagle chain length procedure including deflating the shock and articulating the suspension?

Posted: Oct 10, 2019 at 5:58 Quote
EKrum wrote:
I’m running SRAM eagle. I am jumping from a 30t ring to a 32t ring. Should I just use the same chain length + 2 links? Or do I need to go through the whole eagle chain length procedure including deflating the shock and articulating the suspension?
You can use same chain length, if you feel harsh shifting, then add link.

Posted: Oct 10, 2019 at 11:19 Quote
onyxss wrote:
EKrum wrote:
I’m running SRAM eagle. I am jumping from a 30t ring to a 32t ring. Should I just use the same chain length + 2 links? Or do I need to go through the whole eagle chain length procedure including deflating the shock and articulating the suspension?
You can use same chain length, if you feel harsh shifting, then add link.

If your mech pulls into your spokes and you blow out a wheel, add 3 links.

I would personally just measure it again, pretty simple and you won’t have to worry about it.

Posted: Oct 11, 2019 at 0:32 Quote
Branmuffin wrote:
onyxss wrote:
EKrum wrote:
I’m running SRAM eagle. I am jumping from a 30t ring to a 32t ring. Should I just use the same chain length + 2 links? Or do I need to go through the whole eagle chain length procedure including deflating the shock and articulating the suspension?
You can use same chain length, if you feel harsh shifting, then add link.

If your mech pulls into your spokes and you blow out a wheel, add 3 links.

I would personally just measure it again, pretty simple and you won’t have to worry about it.

No need to exaggerate, if current setup is well setup (high and low limiters), there will be no mech pulls into spokes or bike exploding with 2 more teeth on chainring Big Grin
You don't know if current chain length is not having some slack in it, which is negated with deraileur, thats why its possbile that there is no need for extending the chain.
OP: Just try new chainring, there is big chance it will work just fine.

Posted: Oct 11, 2019 at 4:18 Quote
Branmuffin wrote:
onyxss wrote:

No need to exaggerate, if current setup is well setup (high and low limiters), there will be no mech pulls into spokes or bike exploding with 2 more teeth on chainring Big Grin
You don't know if current chain length is not having some slack in it, which is negated with deraileur, thats why its possbile that there is no need for extending the chain.
OP: Just try new chainring, there is big chance it will work just fine.

Just such poor advice though...
Nobody, possibly including OP knows if that current chain is even the optimal length right now.
Like you said , OP can take the “big chance” and just slap a new chainring on and hope for the best.
Or, spend 20 minutes measuring your new chain and know 100% it’s going to work.

Posted: Oct 14, 2019 at 4:07 Quote
Branmuffin wrote:
Branmuffin wrote:
onyxss wrote:

No need to exaggerate, if current setup is well setup (high and low limiters), there will be no mech pulls into spokes or bike exploding with 2 more teeth on chainring Big Grin
You don't know if current chain length is not having some slack in it, which is negated with deraileur, thats why its possbile that there is no need for extending the chain.
OP: Just try new chainring, there is big chance it will work just fine.

Just such poor advice though...
Nobody, possibly including OP knows if that current chain is even the optimal length right now.
Like you said , OP can take the “big chance” and just slap a new chainring on and hope for the best.
Or, spend 20 minutes measuring your new chain and know 100% it’s going to work.

Don't you think that OP posted question because he would like to avoid that 20 mins if not ncesarry? If that wasn't the case he would already measure and not post quiestion at all....

Posted: Oct 14, 2019 at 4:08 Quote
onyxss wrote:
Branmuffin wrote:
Branmuffin wrote:


No need to exaggerate, if current setup is well setup (high and low limiters), there will be no mech pulls into spokes or bike exploding with 2 more teeth on chainring Big Grin
You don't know if current chain length is not having some slack in it, which is negated with deraileur, thats why its possbile that there is no need for extending the chain.
OP: Just try new chainring, there is big chance it will work just fine.

Just such poor advice though...
Nobody, possibly including OP knows if that current chain is even the optimal length right now.
Like you said , OP can take the “big chance” and just slap a new chainring on and hope for the best.
Or, spend 20 minutes measuring your new chain and know 100% it’s going to work.

Don't you think that OP posted question because he would like to avoid that 20 mins if not ncesarry? If that wasn't the case he would already measure and not post quiestion at all....
lol. Sometimes people post a question and are able to recognize when there’s a better solution.
Shortcut setting up your chain correctly may save you 20 minutes, but it will cost you hours or days when it breaks if it’s too short.
OP knows the correct answer, he will get it sorted.

Posted: Oct 14, 2019 at 8:00 Quote
Also check the chain for wear.

Posted: Oct 14, 2019 at 8:23 Quote
I got a chain and went through the whole eagle chain length procedure on the SRAM website. That gave me a chain that was too long. While in my smallest cog the derailleur cage had not tension and the chain was slack. In the future I think I will size the chain with the bike on the ground & shock inflated, derailleur in the smallest ring and cage just barely with tension. That's where I ended up and everything works great!

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