Currently building up a 161. I’ll add pictures when I figure out how to.
My only concern is the clearance between the chainstays and the crank arms.
BB is hope with their DUB shim kit..1 spacer on the drive side cup With sram GX eagle DUB 170mm cranks.
They fit ok and do spin nicely but the clearance is only 3/4mm from the frame to the crank arm.
Pretty standard on this frame with many cranks I think. My Shimano XT cranks have a super tight clearance as well. Hasn't caused any issues in 2 full seasons.
Privateer recommend a minimum Q-factor of 168mm which is wider than some models (e.g. M9100 XTR). Especially older cranksets.
Currently building up a 161. I’ll add pictures when I figure out how to.
My only concern is the clearance between the chainstays and the crank arms.
BB is hope with their DUB shim kit..1 spacer on the drive side cup With sram GX eagle DUB 170mm cranks.
They fit ok and do spin nicely but the clearance is only 3/4mm from the frame to the crank arm.
Pretty standard on this frame with many cranks I think. My Shimano XT cranks have a super tight clearance as well. Hasn't caused any issues in 2 full seasons.
Privateer recommend a minimum Q-factor of 168mm which is wider than some models (e.g. M9100 XTR). Especially older cranksets.
Ahh ok cheers. I was scratching my head for a while because the chain line is Bob on
Currently building up a 161. I’ll add pictures when I figure out how to.
My only concern is the clearance between the chainstays and the crank arms.
BB is hope with their DUB shim kit..1 spacer on the drive side cup With sram GX eagle DUB 170mm cranks.
They fit ok and do spin nicely but the clearance is only 3/4mm from the frame to the crank arm.
Pretty standard on this frame with many cranks I think. My Shimano XT cranks have a super tight clearance as well. Hasn't caused any issues in 2 full seasons.
Privateer recommend a minimum Q-factor of 168mm which is wider than some models (e.g. M9100 XTR). Especially older cranksets.
Ahh ok cheers. I was scratching my head for a while because the chain line is Bob on
The one thing that may be a concern (I think this was mentioned here as well many pages ago), is the chainring clearance depending on the chainring offset. 34T or 32T Oval chainrings can be SUPER tight or potentially not work at all.
32t oval absolute black on 24mm standard bearings with Race Face aeffect won't work as an example.
I am curious about the gabaruk offset chainrings. I have the feeling that my drivetrain is really grinding down for the two most easy gear's. A better offset @30t should help
I used garbaruk melon 30t boost chainring and had clearance issues, now on non boost AB oval on sram 2x crank ring on the middle position and still have clearance issues, I had to space out the ds bb cup with a thin washer to clear the chainstay
So yeah… AB 32t oval ring… not much clearance when the oval part is by the stays. Something like a 54mm Chain line at the moment measure from middle of BB to middle of chainring.
Can I get rid of the cracking clicking noise from the back end? (Think it’s coming from the chainstay pivot points) Well yeah for a minute or two if I bounce on the suspension…
Seriously I’ve tried everything less for replacing bearings. I’ve greased, lowered torque values and cleaned thoroughly, thank you interneters!
Can I get rid of the cracking clicking noise from the back end? (Think it’s coming from the chainstay pivot points) Well yeah for a minute or two if I bounce on the suspension…
Seriously I’ve tried everything less for replacing bearings. I’ve greased, lowered torque values and cleaned thoroughly, thank you interneters!
I had a minor creaking/clicking noise which came from the seat post, I suggest you take it off, clean, use some anti seize paste and put it back together.
Can I get rid of the cracking clicking noise from the back end? (Think it’s coming from the chainstay pivot points) Well yeah for a minute or two if I bounce on the suspension…
Seriously I’ve tried everything less for replacing bearings. I’ve greased, lowered torque values and cleaned thoroughly, thank you interneters!
I've had terrible creaking/cracking noise after riding in really really wet or snowy conditions. Both times it was solved by greasing the rear chainstay pivot hardware. I was sure I had chewed up bearings to replace in the main pivots but a bit of grease on the very back end and they were perfect again. For some reason they seem to get dry faster than the other pivots.
Can I get rid of the cracking clicking noise from the back end? (Think it’s coming from the chainstay pivot points) Well yeah for a minute or two if I bounce on the suspension…
Seriously I’ve tried everything less for replacing bearings. I’ve greased, lowered torque values and cleaned thoroughly, thank you interneters!
Does it click when you pedal? I had a small clicking/creak when putting power down. Thought it was the cassette lock ring but I think it just ended up being my pedals. Took them off, re greased them and then out them back in.
I’m thinking about getting a 161 but I wonder how it feels on the flatter sections. I currently have a 2019 Jeffsy and getting the 141 will probably feel similar. Therefore I would opt for the 161 instead and also keep the Jeffsy. The trails where I would use the 161 have some flatter sections and I’m a bit worried the 161 is purely for enduro racing.