My perception is based on a few cases I know personally but mostly following this thread closely and doing research on it, since it’s the frame I would like next. In the end of the day, as long as you have a good warranty, (besides the hassle and wait) it’s not a problem…this is where SC shine above all others!
Out of curiosity, have you had any experience with SC warranty wait times during Covid?
I’ll be coming up around 5 months waiting for my Spesh enduro frame replacement this month. If I had my time back I probably would of built up an aluminium framed long travel bike - Raaw Madonna, Banshee Titan, Crossworx Dash etc. One of the glaring issues aside from the cracking is the fact the enduro doesn’t have either aluminium bearing cups bonded in to the head tube, or press in cups. Carbon bearing cups on a long travel enduro bike, made to smash park laps in mud, grit and rain is a terrible idea. And my concern down the road would be if you lost material and the tolerances got poor enough to allow headset bearing movement, would Specialized honour this or just claim it as wear and tear…
i have a titan along with my enduro, i highly recommend it. it is heavy (so is the enduro) but climbing efficiency is unmatched imo.
My perception is based on a few cases I know personally but mostly following this thread closely and doing research on it, since it’s the frame I would like next. In the end of the day, as long as you have a good warranty, (besides the hassle and wait) it’s not a problem…this is where SC shine above all others!
Out of curiosity, have you had any experience with SC warranty wait times during Covid?
I’ll be coming up around 5 months waiting for my Spesh enduro frame replacement this month. If I had my time back I probably would of built up an aluminium framed long travel bike - Raaw Madonna, Banshee Titan, Crossworx Dash etc. One of the glaring issues aside from the cracking is the fact the enduro doesn’t have either aluminium bearing cups bonded in to the head tube, or press in cups. Carbon bearing cups on a long travel enduro bike, made to smash park laps in mud, grit and rain is a terrible idea. And my concern down the road would be if you lost material and the tolerances got poor enough to allow headset bearing movement, would Specialized honour this or just claim it as wear and tear…
i have a titan along with my enduro, i highly recommend it. it is heavy (so is the enduro) but climbing efficiency is unmatched imo.
How do you find the Titan compares to the Enduro when it comes to descending? I have a Banshee Phantom V3 as my light duty trail bike and love it.
Out of curiosity, have you had any experience with SC warranty wait times during Covid? …
Not me personally because I don’t ride SC, but have a couple of friends recently who had small issues with their frames and were told to cut their frames, send a photo to prove they have destroyed them and had a new frame in a few days… same with Reserve wheels. And I know for a fact that one distributor here saves frames and parts for warranty claims, when they could sell them. That’s great service.
On the headset cup being carbon on the frame, many are as well…my Sentinel at least is the same.
Out of curiosity, have you had any experience with SC warranty wait times during Covid? …
Not me personally because I don’t ride SC, but have a couple of friends recently who had small issues with their frames and were told to cut their frames, send a photo to prove they have destroyed them and had a new frame in a few days… same with Reserve wheels. And I know for a fact that one distributor here saves frames and parts for warranty claims, when they could sell them. That’s great service.
On the headset cup being carbon on the frame, many are as well…my Sentinel at least is the same.
Cut the frame so you can't sell it? I understand this policy is common in tons of different businesses outside the bike industry too, and why they do it. But what a waste... pretty cool that WAO is attempting to repair frames instead.
Yeah I used to hate having to destroy and toss easily repairable cracked frames when I was wrenching. I understand why you wouldn't repair if you're offered a free replacement, but with the bike shortage more and more people would opt for repair rather than wait 6+ months for a replacement.
Would be cool if bike companies could offer some kind of domestic in-house repair that would be covered under warranty. In regular times I'm sure it's much easier and cheaper to replace frames but with all the supply chain issues it might not be such a bad idea
Out of curiosity, have you had any experience with SC warranty wait times during Covid?
I’ll be coming up around 5 months waiting for my Spesh enduro frame replacement this month. If I had my time back I probably would of built up an aluminium framed long travel bike - Raaw Madonna, Banshee Titan, Crossworx Dash etc. One of the glaring issues aside from the cracking is the fact the enduro doesn’t have either aluminium bearing cups bonded in to the head tube, or press in cups. Carbon bearing cups on a long travel enduro bike, made to smash park laps in mud, grit and rain is a terrible idea. And my concern down the road would be if you lost material and the tolerances got poor enough to allow headset bearing movement, would Specialized honour this or just claim it as wear and tear…
i have a titan along with my enduro, i highly recommend it. it is heavy (so is the enduro) but climbing efficiency is unmatched imo.
How do you find the Titan compares to the Enduro when it comes to descending? I have a Banshee Phantom V3 as my light duty trail bike and love it.
I have a -1degree angleset in the titan to give 63.5 HTA and slightly longer wheelbase, and a 160mm zeb on the titan as the A-C is about the same as the 170mm it was designed for.
At home, i kind of prefer the enduro, its a bit easier to maneuver in the very tight corners here, but still holds up in the steeps. The titan feels best when you can open it up for long periods, and i also prefer it in steeps with rocks/steps, so it has become my travel bike.
I've got the Ohlins TTX22 in 205x60mm, I need to go up a spring rate but none of the 18074 or 18077 I'm after are in stock where I've looked, would I be okay running a 2.5 spring? I think the 18077 series are 67mm with 2.5 roughly working out as 64ish mm
I've got the Ohlins TTX22 in 205x60mm, I need to go up a spring rate but none of the 18074 or 18077 I'm after are in stock where I've looked, would I be okay running a 2.5 spring? I think the 18077 series are 67mm with 2.5 roughly working out as 64ish mm
Hey, yes I went through this also with my TTX22M, I ended up running a 67mm spring, due to one being available at the spring rate I wanted. After a lot of research I concluded that the extra 4mm over the specced 63mm spring isn't much to fret about. Certainly better than running a spring under the 60mm shock stroke! There's a rabbit hole of geekiness about how the ever so slightly longer spring may affect things, in summary though it's fine. Had some Ohlins service centres say the same, and a Ohlins place in Switzerland said it was ok too.
They produced this webpage resource which has everything you could possibly wish to know on the shock and its versions: https://www.pmbswiss.ch/ohlins-ttx-22-specifications
What spring rate are you after? I actually have a 88Nmm (502lb/in) 67mm stroke spring, very good condition if you're interested, been meaning to get it up for sale.
I've got the Ohlins TTX22 in 205x60mm, I need to go up a spring rate but none of the 18074 or 18077 I'm after are in stock where I've looked, would I be okay running a 2.5 spring? I think the 18077 series are 67mm with 2.5 roughly working out as 64ish mm
Hey, yes I went through this also with my TTX22M, I ended up running a 67mm spring, due to one being available at the spring rate I wanted. After a lot of research I concluded that the extra 4mm over the specced 63mm spring isn't much to fret about. Certainly better than running a spring under the 60mm shock stroke! There's a rabbit hole of geekiness about how the ever so slightly longer spring may affect things, in summary though it's fine. Had some Ohlins service centres say the same, and a Ohlins place in Switzerland said it was ok too.
They produced this webpage resource which has everything you could possibly wish to know on the shock and its versions: https://www.pmbswiss.ch/ohlins-ttx-22-specifications
What spring rate are you after? I actually have a 88Nmm (502lb/in) 67mm stroke spring, very good condition if you're interested, been meaning to get it up for sale.
Hope that helps
Thank you for the info and the link, looks like the 2.5 will be fine. I was after the 571 or 600, I found a cane creek 2.5x600 to try. I've got the 502 and 525 here which I am currently too big for
I've got the Ohlins TTX22 in 205x60mm, I need to go up a spring rate but none of the 18074 or 18077 I'm after are in stock where I've looked, would I be okay running a 2.5 spring? I think the 18077 series are 67mm with 2.5 roughly working out as 64ish mm
Hey, yes I went through this also with my TTX22M, I ended up running a 67mm spring, due to one being available at the spring rate I wanted. After a lot of research I concluded that the extra 4mm over the specced 63mm spring isn't much to fret about. Certainly better than running a spring under the 60mm shock stroke! There's a rabbit hole of geekiness about how the ever so slightly longer spring may affect things, in summary though it's fine. Had some Ohlins service centres say the same, and a Ohlins place in Switzerland said it was ok too.
They produced this webpage resource which has everything you could possibly wish to know on the shock and its versions: https://www.pmbswiss.ch/ohlins-ttx-22-specifications
What spring rate are you after? I actually have a 88Nmm (502lb/in) 67mm stroke spring, very good condition if you're interested, been meaning to get it up for sale.
Hope that helps
Thank you for the info and the link, looks like the 2.5 will be fine. I was after the 571 or 600, I found a cane creek 2.5x600 to try. I've got the 502 and 525 here which I am currently too big for
DVO and Cane Creek springs are interchangeable. DVO does progressive springs in 65mm travel, 475-575 and 525-650.
You will want the FC-M*120 for the boost chainline.
Actually you’re probably better off with FC-M*100. Shimano refers to “boost” as a 55mm chainline but most manufacturers design 52mm chainline with their boost spacing, which is M*100. You can use *120 as well but you won’t end up having even spacers on each side of the crank.
Hi guys. Has anyone with an overstroked shock completely bottomed out the Enduro (like in huck to flat)? Does it clear or did you notice any contact with the frame either in the seatstay bridge or the suspension links?
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