2020 Specialized Enduro Thoughts

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2020 Specialized Enduro Thoughts
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Posted: May 3, 2021 at 8:19 Quote
These integrated headsets with the FSA bearings seem to be finicky for many on here, myself included. If I get the install just right there isn't any creaking or looseness; Although, I have to run it tighter than I would like. Make sure you have the right size bearings (below). Someone on here got the Chris King dropset 5 and said it solved his creaking. Another person used teflon shower tape (I think). Keep troubleshooting, something should solve it.

1-1/8" (41.8mm x 30.5 x 8mm, 45x45°) Campagnolo Standard compatible upper bearing
1.5" (52mm x 40 x 7mm, 45x45°) lower bearing

1stevenml wrote:
My 2021 enduro expert has constant noise that seems to be coming from the head tube. I replaced the top bearing because it wasn’t turning at all, completely frozen. The bottom bearing got replaced too shortly after and all the noise stopped, for a while. It a popping sound and a rubbing/squeaking sound. I almost wonder if the head tube is out of tolerance? When I clean/reinstall the bearings with fresh grease it seems to go away for a ride or two. Never had this problem with any other bike. Thoughts? I also already sent the fork to fox to check out for bushing noise or csu issues and they say it’s fine. Driving me crazy

Note this all started after riding all weekend at windrock in super muddy conditions, and let my headset stay too loose... I know, I’m a dumbass. I took the frozen bearing apart and it was full of mud and had dents in the race from the balls.

Posted: May 3, 2021 at 9:04 Quote
1stevenml wrote:
My 2021 enduro expert has constant noise that seems to be coming from the head tube. I replaced the top bearing because it wasn’t turning at all, completely frozen. The bottom bearing got replaced too shortly after and all the noise stopped, for a while. It a popping sound and a rubbing/squeaking sound. I almost wonder if the head tube is out of tolerance? When I clean/reinstall the bearings with fresh grease it seems to go away for a ride or two. Never had this problem with any other bike. Thoughts? I also already sent the fork to fox to check out for bushing noise or csu issues and they say it’s fine. Driving me crazy

Note this all started after riding all weekend at windrock in super muddy conditions, and let my headset stay too loose... I know, I’m a dumbass. I took the frozen bearing apart and it was full of mud and had dents in the race from the balls.

Do you ride with swat tool inside the headtube? I also have a noise that I asume might be the tool ratteling while going over brake bumps or a rockgarden... I have been lazy and haven't take it out to check if the noise still remains...it's freaking anoying though

Posted: May 3, 2021 at 16:54 Quote
Thanks! I have the Saint SPD pedals and don't think they offer a wider spindle... maybe time to give the Crank Bros a shot. I too am 13 shoe, lots of paint rubbed off the left chainstay already

Blownoutrides wrote:
cjarrett wrote:
If I wanted to have my feet a little wider than they currently are, is changing my cranks the best route to go? I suppose if the Q-factor is too high, your chainline gets out of whack?

I get a lot of heel rub, and being a taller guy, I;d love to have my feet just a little wider than they currently are. Wider pedal axles could work too perhaps?

Andrazzz wrote:
XT8100 have 172 mm Q-factor, 8120 have 178 mm Q-factor - this is achieved with longer crank shaft and two 3 mm spacers on crank shaft (page 18/35 https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/storage/pdf/en/dm/MAFC002/DM-MAFC002-08-ENG.pdf).

I run XT8120 with no spacers between BB and frame, and both 3 mm spacers on left side (non-drive side) - to make better chainline (52 mm). This results in a lot of space between crank on left (non-drive side) and not much on the right (drive side). But I have zero problems with this setup. With 3 mm spacer on each side (on cranshaft) space between frame and crank will be perfect on both sides (55 mm chainline).
I have mounted XT8120 because I had it from previous bike, otherwise I would probably run XT8100 (but I haven't tried it so I don't know how close it is to the frame).

6’4” / size 13 Eewings + Mallet DH = no rub

Had Mallet E but needed the long spindle version (w/ standard spindle my heal rubbed the right chainstay).

Also, started with 175mm cranks / 34t chainring but going to 170mm / 32t feels way better, less pedal strikes, more room all around, slightly better gear range too.

Posted: May 3, 2021 at 16:58 Quote
cjarrett wrote:
Thanks! I have the Saint SPD pedals and don't think they offer a wider spindle... maybe time to give the Crank Bros a shot. I too am 13 shoe, lots of paint rubbed off the left chainstay already

Blownoutrides wrote:
cjarrett wrote:
If I wanted to have my feet a little wider than they currently are, is changing my cranks the best route to go? I suppose if the Q-factor is too high, your chainline gets out of whack?

I get a lot of heel rub, and being a taller guy, I;d love to have my feet just a little wider than they currently are. Wider pedal axles could work too perhaps?


6’4” / size 13 Eewings + Mallet DH = no rub

Had Mallet E but needed the long spindle version (w/ standard spindle my heal rubbed the right chainstay).

Also, started with 175mm cranks / 34t chainring but going to 170mm / 32t feels way better, less pedal strikes, more room all around, slightly better gear range too.


I rode standard length Mallet E's last year, and my left chain stay + right crank are scuffed. I also can't release very well if the cranks are horizontal to the ground, with 5 Ten Hellcat pro's in a euro 48. I bought some Mallet DH for my DH bike, so I might get another set.

Posted: May 4, 2021 at 9:30 Quote
They’re the correct bearings, I might try the tape idea
spendtimebehindbars wrote:
These integrated headsets with the FSA bearings seem to be finicky for many on here, myself included. If I get the install just right there isn't any creaking or looseness; Although, I have to run it tighter than I would like. Make sure you have the right size bearings (below). Someone on here got the Chris King dropset 5 and said it solved his creaking. Another person used teflon shower tape (I think). Keep troubleshooting, something should solve it.

1-1/8" (41.8mm x 30.5 x 8mm, 45x45°) Campagnolo Standard compatible upper bearing
1.5" (52mm x 40 x 7mm, 45x45°) lower bearing

1stevenml wrote:
My 2021 enduro expert has constant noise that seems to be coming from the head tube. I replaced the top bearing because it wasn’t turning at all, completely frozen. The bottom bearing got replaced too shortly after and all the noise stopped, for a while. It a popping sound and a rubbing/squeaking sound. I almost wonder if the head tube is out of tolerance? When I clean/reinstall the bearings with fresh grease it seems to go away for a ride or two. Never had this problem with any other bike. Thoughts? I also already sent the fork to fox to check out for bushing noise or csu issues and they say it’s fine. Driving me crazy

Note this all started after riding all weekend at windrock in super muddy conditions, and let my headset stay too loose... I know, I’m a dumbass. I took the frozen bearing apart and it was full of mud and had dents in the race from the balls.

Posted: May 4, 2021 at 9:32 Quote
Yeah I have to tool in there, but it does it just turning the bars back and forth in the stand as well


PabloMoll wrote:
1stevenml wrote:
My 2021 enduro expert has constant noise that seems to be coming from the head tube. I replaced the top bearing because it wasn’t turning at all, completely frozen. The bottom bearing got replaced too shortly after and all the noise stopped, for a while. It a popping sound and a rubbing/squeaking sound. I almost wonder if the head tube is out of tolerance? When I clean/reinstall the bearings with fresh grease it seems to go away for a ride or two. Never had this problem with any other bike. Thoughts? I also already sent the fork to fox to check out for bushing noise or csu issues and they say it’s fine. Driving me crazy

Note this all started after riding all weekend at windrock in super muddy conditions, and let my headset stay too loose... I know, I’m a dumbass. I took the frozen bearing apart and it was full of mud and had dents in the race from the balls.

Do you ride with swat tool inside the headtube? I also have a noise that I asume might be the tool ratteling while going over brake bumps or a rockgarden... I have been lazy and haven't take it out to check if the noise still remains...it's freaking anoying though

Posted: May 4, 2021 at 14:45 Quote
It might be a combination of both. As someone said, I had to tighten my headseat a little bit more. That also made the tool fit tigther inside the swat cc. Now is noiseless.

Posted: May 8, 2021 at 7:26 Quote
I'm still so amazed at how well this bike climbs. On a lot of segments it's only a bit slower than my Epic despite being 12lbs heavier.

Posted: May 10, 2021 at 11:59 Quote
Leven wrote:
I'm still so amazed at how well this bike climbs. On a lot of segments it's only a bit slower than my Epic despite being 12lbs heavier.

Are you sticking with the stock 30 tooth ring? I wonder if going to a 32 would negatively impact pedaling in a noticeable way?

Posted: May 10, 2021 at 15:50 Quote
A few percent lower anti-squat, but still above average.

Posted: May 12, 2021 at 3:17 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
spendtimebehindbars wrote:
Or does it come down to individual sizing, riding style, personal preference, etc?

Everything you said is exactly what would be expected from changing to a shorter stem. Your weight is farther back, which is ideal on steeps, but it's difficult to put enough weight on the front wheel to get traction on flat turns and berms. These are universal issues, not specific to the Enduro.

Yeah same experiences. Did you also experiment with spacers on top/ under stem? That makes at least as much difference in front grip / handling as do the stem lenght. I did a test comparing 35 - 40 - 50mm stems in high low spacer setting. Its exactly like you say, front wants to wash out in corners with shorter stem. Compensate with lowering stem, lowering handlebar rise or by riding style (go more front in corners). That's my experience on it. Hope this helps.

Posted: May 12, 2021 at 3:37 Quote
Also consider that removing/adding spacers increases/decreases reach. Whereas a different rise bar will keep reach constant.

A lot of it comes down to technique though. Riding off the back feels “safe” for many people. These bikes can handle a more forward weight bias but the confidence to ride like that doesn’t come easily.

Posted: May 13, 2021 at 15:04 Quote
Does anyone happen to know the part number of the headset of the 2020 Enduro Comp? I have just acquired one and it’s come without the crown race. I see there are a lot of crown races for FSA 1.5 ZS headsets online, and want to be sure to purchase the correct one.
Thanks in advance.

Posted: May 13, 2021 at 17:30 Quote
jaame wrote:
Does anyone happen to know the part number of the headset of the 2020 Enduro Comp? I have just acquired one and it’s come without the crown race. I see there are a lot of crown races for FSA 1.5 ZS headsets online, and want to be sure to purchase the correct one.
Thanks in advance.

Part #: S182500005
This might help you: https://media.specialized.com/support/collateral/0000139644.pdf

Check out page 5 of the manual. Not sure if that's exactly what your looking for though.

Posted: May 13, 2021 at 23:23 Quote
I will give it a look. Thanks for your help.


 
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